The Best Bleeding Device (XJS V12)
#21
Without reading everyone's posts I use a Pela Pump, absolutely brilliant, these are designed for removing engine oil but once pumped up, will bleed a brake system in minutes.
Sorry if someone else has posted the same thing.
Quick, Easy & Clean Oil Changes with PELA Products
Sorry if someone else has posted the same thing.
Quick, Easy & Clean Oil Changes with PELA Products
Thanks,
That's an interesting idea, though no doubt it costs a lot more than a piece of Plastic Tubing, so not really worth it in my book unless you have some other applications for this device.
Unless you have other problems in the Braking department, then you are only going to be changing your Brake Fluid once a year, in which case the simplest ideas are sometimes the best.
By forcing the Fluid to climb up the Tube, only Brake Fluid can leak past the threads of the Bleed Nipple, which in practice is very unlikely to happen if you've only cracked it open half a turn.
I was quite amazed how well the Gravity method worked, so that's what I will be using in the future.
#22
OB,
That's good news that you've got a better pedal! Well done!
It does imply that you had a little bit of air in the front caliper.
However, you can't use gravity bleeding to do anything other than get air from the final bit of the caliper on an ABS-equipped XJS. The way that the ABS actuator and valve block works means that the port back to the reservoir from the actuation unit is closed at times. The ABS valve block also has the solenoid valve closed under normal conditions precluding any air from going back to the reservoir via that line.
So, you might be able to get some residual caliper air out using gravity but you have to use the proper method(s) to bleed 99% of the system.
Manufacturers (inclduing Jaguar) build ABS valve block bleeding capability through the diagnostic systems. This means the ABS valves can be made to open and close during bleeding using the diagnostic software in order to purge the air properly from these blocks. Anything else is inevitably a compromise.
I've just bought a cheap Renault Clio for my daughter to learn to drive. I've given it a thorugh overhaul over the last 3 days, engine oil flush, gearbox oil change, antifreeze, rad flushing, spark plugs etc etc. Being on my own this morning, I had to think how to do a best-endeavours brake fluid change on my own. I thought about buying a non-return valve setup but every review of every type had some form of negative comments about pipes coming loose etc etc. And my Gunson pressure bleeder didn't have a cap to fit the Renault. So, after a bit of head scratching, I decided to try and use my compressor-driven engine oil extractor. I changed the long oil extractor pipe for a short clear flexible one and managed to get that to seal in the extractor plug. I then connected that to the bleed nipple, opened the nipple and then turned the air vacuum valve a little. Hey, presto, brake fluid came out. It was quite "foamy", as if it might be pulling air in around the nipple joint. Or maybe the suction pressure causes foaming of the fluid as it pulls it through the nipple, I don't know. Anyway, I was able to change the fluid that way by doing all four wheels.
I'll try it again next week with a more rigid pipe (it does want to collapse under vacuum pressure) and with a definite seal on the nipple using a short tight rubber extension piece and see if I get a nice clear fluid flow.
I don't think it's possible to an ABS-equipped XJS with a vacuum bleeder because, as a minimum, the rear circuit valve isn't open to the pump and accumulator without brake pedal operation. So I think an ABS-XJS is always a 2-man job.
Paul
That's good news that you've got a better pedal! Well done!
It does imply that you had a little bit of air in the front caliper.
However, you can't use gravity bleeding to do anything other than get air from the final bit of the caliper on an ABS-equipped XJS. The way that the ABS actuator and valve block works means that the port back to the reservoir from the actuation unit is closed at times. The ABS valve block also has the solenoid valve closed under normal conditions precluding any air from going back to the reservoir via that line.
So, you might be able to get some residual caliper air out using gravity but you have to use the proper method(s) to bleed 99% of the system.
Manufacturers (inclduing Jaguar) build ABS valve block bleeding capability through the diagnostic systems. This means the ABS valves can be made to open and close during bleeding using the diagnostic software in order to purge the air properly from these blocks. Anything else is inevitably a compromise.
I've just bought a cheap Renault Clio for my daughter to learn to drive. I've given it a thorugh overhaul over the last 3 days, engine oil flush, gearbox oil change, antifreeze, rad flushing, spark plugs etc etc. Being on my own this morning, I had to think how to do a best-endeavours brake fluid change on my own. I thought about buying a non-return valve setup but every review of every type had some form of negative comments about pipes coming loose etc etc. And my Gunson pressure bleeder didn't have a cap to fit the Renault. So, after a bit of head scratching, I decided to try and use my compressor-driven engine oil extractor. I changed the long oil extractor pipe for a short clear flexible one and managed to get that to seal in the extractor plug. I then connected that to the bleed nipple, opened the nipple and then turned the air vacuum valve a little. Hey, presto, brake fluid came out. It was quite "foamy", as if it might be pulling air in around the nipple joint. Or maybe the suction pressure causes foaming of the fluid as it pulls it through the nipple, I don't know. Anyway, I was able to change the fluid that way by doing all four wheels.
I'll try it again next week with a more rigid pipe (it does want to collapse under vacuum pressure) and with a definite seal on the nipple using a short tight rubber extension piece and see if I get a nice clear fluid flow.
I don't think it's possible to an ABS-equipped XJS with a vacuum bleeder because, as a minimum, the rear circuit valve isn't open to the pump and accumulator without brake pedal operation. So I think an ABS-XJS is always a 2-man job.
Paul
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orangeblossom (08-01-2015)
#23
OB,
That's good news that you've got a better pedal! Well done!
It does imply that you had a little bit of air in the front caliper.
However, you can't use gravity bleeding to do anything other than get air from the final bit of the caliper on an ABS-equipped XJS. The way that the ABS actuator and valve block works means that the port back to the reservoir from the actuation unit is closed at times. The ABS valve block also has the solenoid valve closed under normal conditions precluding any air from going back to the reservoir via that line.
So, you might be able to get some residual caliper air out using gravity but you have to use the proper method(s) to bleed 99% of the system.
Manufacturers (inclduing Jaguar) build ABS valve block bleeding capability through the diagnostic systems. This means the ABS valves can be made to open and close during bleeding using the diagnostic software in order to purge the air properly from these blocks. Anything else is inevitably a compromise.
I've just bought a cheap Renault Clio for my daughter to learn to drive. I've given it a thorugh overhaul over the last 3 days, engine oil flush, gearbox oil change, antifreeze, rad flushing, spark plugs etc etc. Being on my own this morning, I had to think how to do a best-endeavours brake fluid change on my own. I thought about buying a non-return valve setup but every review of every type had some form of negative comments about pipes coming loose etc etc. And my Gunson pressure bleeder didn't have a cap to fit the Renault. So, after a bit of head scratching, I decided to try and use my compressor-driven engine oil extractor. I changed the long oil extractor pipe for a short clear flexible one and managed to get that to seal in the extractor plug. I then connected that to the bleed nipple, opened the nipple and then turned the air vacuum valve a little. Hey, presto, brake fluid came out. It was quite "foamy", as if it might be pulling air in around the nipple joint. Or maybe the suction pressure causes foaming of the fluid as it pulls it through the nipple, I don't know. Anyway, I was able to change the fluid that way by doing all four wheels.
I'll try it again next week with a more rigid pipe (it does want to collapse under vacuum pressure) and with a definite seal on the nipple using a short tight rubber extension piece and see if I get a nice clear fluid flow.
I don't think it's possible to an ABS-equipped XJS with a vacuum bleeder because, as a minimum, the rear circuit valve isn't open to the pump and accumulator without brake pedal operation. So I think an ABS-XJS is always a 2-man job.
Paul
That's good news that you've got a better pedal! Well done!
It does imply that you had a little bit of air in the front caliper.
However, you can't use gravity bleeding to do anything other than get air from the final bit of the caliper on an ABS-equipped XJS. The way that the ABS actuator and valve block works means that the port back to the reservoir from the actuation unit is closed at times. The ABS valve block also has the solenoid valve closed under normal conditions precluding any air from going back to the reservoir via that line.
So, you might be able to get some residual caliper air out using gravity but you have to use the proper method(s) to bleed 99% of the system.
Manufacturers (inclduing Jaguar) build ABS valve block bleeding capability through the diagnostic systems. This means the ABS valves can be made to open and close during bleeding using the diagnostic software in order to purge the air properly from these blocks. Anything else is inevitably a compromise.
I've just bought a cheap Renault Clio for my daughter to learn to drive. I've given it a thorugh overhaul over the last 3 days, engine oil flush, gearbox oil change, antifreeze, rad flushing, spark plugs etc etc. Being on my own this morning, I had to think how to do a best-endeavours brake fluid change on my own. I thought about buying a non-return valve setup but every review of every type had some form of negative comments about pipes coming loose etc etc. And my Gunson pressure bleeder didn't have a cap to fit the Renault. So, after a bit of head scratching, I decided to try and use my compressor-driven engine oil extractor. I changed the long oil extractor pipe for a short clear flexible one and managed to get that to seal in the extractor plug. I then connected that to the bleed nipple, opened the nipple and then turned the air vacuum valve a little. Hey, presto, brake fluid came out. It was quite "foamy", as if it might be pulling air in around the nipple joint. Or maybe the suction pressure causes foaming of the fluid as it pulls it through the nipple, I don't know. Anyway, I was able to change the fluid that way by doing all four wheels.
I'll try it again next week with a more rigid pipe (it does want to collapse under vacuum pressure) and with a definite seal on the nipple using a short tight rubber extension piece and see if I get a nice clear fluid flow.
I don't think it's possible to an ABS-equipped XJS with a vacuum bleeder because, as a minimum, the rear circuit valve isn't open to the pump and accumulator without brake pedal operation. So I think an ABS-XJS is always a 2-man job.
Paul
While I know you are probably right, it certainly made a massive difference to how it was before.
I don't think I could get it any better.
As for the Vacuum method, it didn't work for me as it kept sucking air in from somewhere, even though I put some grease round the Bleed Nipple.
#24
so now i get to say ... ta-daaah!
for those wanting non-return valves cheap ... go to the aquarium
store again ... they are beside the aforementioned aquarium air
hose and are sized to fit the same hose.
btw, the greatest benefits of gravity bleeding:
a) no need to yell at anyone
b) frequent breaks are required
for those wanting non-return valves cheap ... go to the aquarium
store again ... they are beside the aforementioned aquarium air
hose and are sized to fit the same hose.
btw, the greatest benefits of gravity bleeding:
a) no need to yell at anyone
b) frequent breaks are required
Last edited by plums; 08-01-2015 at 02:42 PM.
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orangeblossom (08-01-2015)
#25
so now i get to say ... ta-daaah!
You Certainly do Plums, You Certainly Do!
for those wanting non-return valves cheap ... go to the aquarium
store again ... they are beside the aforementioned aquarium air
hose and are sized to fit the same hose.
btw, the greatest benefits of gravity bleeding:
a) no need to yell at anyone
b) frequent breaks are required
You Certainly do Plums, You Certainly Do!
for those wanting non-return valves cheap ... go to the aquarium
store again ... they are beside the aforementioned aquarium air
hose and are sized to fit the same hose.
btw, the greatest benefits of gravity bleeding:
a) no need to yell at anyone
b) frequent breaks are required
It worked for me.
#26
I've had lots of success with the one man brake bleeder devices. The trick is to know their limitations in that the piece that fits over the bleed nipple will not support the entire bleeder assembly.
Attach the bleeder to the nipple and support the rest of the setup.
Here is my super simple, super reliable setup. has worked on every oddball car I've owned and all my motorcycles. The plastic bottle means no spills and being plastic, you can jam or wedge it somewhere close to hold it in place:
Attach the bleeder to the nipple and support the rest of the setup.
Here is my super simple, super reliable setup. has worked on every oddball car I've owned and all my motorcycles. The plastic bottle means no spills and being plastic, you can jam or wedge it somewhere close to hold it in place:
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orangeblossom (08-04-2015)
#27
I've had lots of success with the one man brake bleeder devices. The trick is to know their limitations in that the piece that fits over the bleed nipple will not support the entire bleeder assembly.
Attach the bleeder to the nipple and support the rest of the setup.
Here is my super simple, super reliable setup. has worked on every oddball car I've owned and all my motorcycles. The plastic bottle means no spills and being plastic, you can jam or wedge it somewhere close to hold it in place:
Attach the bleeder to the nipple and support the rest of the setup.
Here is my super simple, super reliable setup. has worked on every oddball car I've owned and all my motorcycles. The plastic bottle means no spills and being plastic, you can jam or wedge it somewhere close to hold it in place:
#28
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orangeblossom (08-04-2015)
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