Hi,
I am sure what I am about to ask has been answered probably multiple times but since there are different brake systems out there I am not sure which method I should follow to bleed my brake system.

I have a 1995 xjs which has an accumulator (the round ball = bomb) and I think that will describe which system I have.

I just recently changed the brake hoses, calipers, rotors and pads all around the car. Currently my battery is dead.

After finishing the work today as described above I tried to bleed my brakes. Pressing on the brakes caused no brake fluid to come out of the bleeder from the rear or the front passenger (I did not try the front driver side). Of course I had only one bleeder screw opened at a time.

I think that my rear brakes should not be pressurized unless the key is in on position, so there being no fluid coming out the rear is understandable--if I understand things correctly. However I thought that the front should have had fluid coming out(?).

Regardless of what I though can someone please describe the bleeding procedure for my car or direct me to the appropriate thread.

If you remember from my previous post when I took off the rear brake pads on both sides they were brand new looking as far as how much material had worn off (which was none, zero) so I really want to see fluid coming out of those bleeder screw. I will not do anything until I hear back from you since I read that I can burn out my pump if I do things incorrectly. I will however charge the battery!

Thanks,
Jomo

 

Bleeding the ABS brake system is not a routine maintenance operation and should only be necessary when part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid is contaminated.
During the bleeding procedure, it is important that the level of fluid in the reservoir is maintained at approximately 2mm below the bottom of the filler neck.
NOTE: The motor/pump unit cannot charge the accumulator if air, and not fluid, is standing on the low pressure side of the pump. Therefore, if the motor/pump unit, the fluid intake hose, or the hydraulic unit of the ABS system have
been renewed/disconnected, the FLUID INTAKE HOSE bleeding procedure must be used.

For all other maintenance work, use the FRONT BRAKES/REAR BRAKES bleeding procedure(s).

CAUTION: DO NOT ALLOW THE PUMP MOTOR TO RUN CONTINUOUSLY FOR MORE THAN TWO
MINUTES. IF, FOR ANY REASON, THE MOTOR DOES OVERRUN THE TWO MINUTE TIME LIMIT, SWITCH THE IGNITION OFF IMMEDIATELY (POSITION '0'1,
AND ALLOW THE MOTOR TO COOL FOR AT LEAST TEN MINUTES BEFORE CONTINUING WITH THE BLEED PROCEDURE.

BLEED PROCEDURE (FRONT BRAKES) - FOR ALL MAlNTENANCE WORK, EXCLUDING: THE MOTOR/PUMP UNIT, FLUID INTAKE HOSE, OR ACTUATION
UNIT.

Ensure that the vehicle is standing level.
Switch the ignition off.
Discharge the hydraulic accumulator by operating the brake pedal until the pedal goes hard (approximately 20 times).
Top up the reservoir to approximately 2mm below the bottom of the filler neck [Fig 1).
Bleed the caliper furthest away from the actuation unit first,. ie, the left hand caliper on RHD cars, the right hand caliper on LHD cars.

NOTE: The following procedure must be done at a rate not faster than 3 seconds per cycle.
Open the bleed nipple (1 Fig 2), fully depress the brake pedal, and hold down.
Close the bleed nipple after a minimal one second.
Release the pedal slowly.
Repeat until the fluid flows air free.
NOTE: If more than 20 cycles are required, the reservoir must be topped up.
Bleed the remaining caliper using the same procedure.

BLEED PROCEDURE (REAR BRAKES) - FOR ALL MAINTENANCE WORK, EXCLUDING: THE MOTOR/PUMP UNIT, FLUID INTAKE HOSE, OR ACTUATION
UNIT.
Ensure that the vehicle is standing level.
Switch the ignition off
Discharge the hydraulic accumulator by operating the brake pedal until the pedal goes hard (approximately 20 times).
Top up the reservoir to approximately 2mm below the bottom of the filler neck (Fig 1).
Open one bleed nipple (1 Fig 3), fully depress the brake pedal, and hold down.
Switch on the ignition and wait (A MINIMUM OF I5 SECONDS) until the fluid flows air free.
Close the bleed nipple.
Release the pedal slowly.
Switch off the ignition.
Bleed the remaining caliper using the same procedure.

NOTE: Ensure that the fluid level does not drop more than 10mm below the maximum mark during the above procedure,

BLEED PROCEDURE (FLUID INTAKE HOSE) - FOR ALL MAINTENANCE WORK INVOLVING: THE MOTOR/PUMP UNIT, FLUID INTAKE HOSE, OR ACTUATION
UNIT.
Ensure that the vehicle is standing level.
Switch the ignition off.
Top up the reservoir to approximately 2mm below the bottom of the filler neck (Fig 1).
Disconnect the fluid intake hose at the pump and allow the fluid to flow into a container (Fig 4) until it is air free.
Check that the plastic elbow '0' ring is not damaged,and reconnect the hose WHILE FLUID IS FLOWING.
Switch the ignition on and operate the brake pedal several times.
If the motor/pump unit is charging, the fluid level in the reservoir will decrease. The upper cut-out point should be reached in less than 60 seconds.


ON COMPLETION OF THE BLEED PROCESS:
Switch on the ignition.
Wait until the accumulator is charged to the upper cut-out point, and top up the reservoir to the maximum level (Fig 1).
NOTE: If the fluid level is too high, any excess fluid must be drawn off. This can be done by using the procedure for bleeding the rear brakes.

 

Just a PPS - you have two choices - two people OR find a way to hold down the brake pedal - for such tasks I have a special 2x4 cut to a length that allows me to depress the pedal using the forward / backward movement of the drivers seat.

 

Jomo,

There are 2 schools of thought as to how the rear brakes should be bled.

The procedure described by BenKenobi is the way that Jaguar first documented it when they implemented the Teves system.

However, Teves themselves stated that the rear brakes should be done differently using an active powered rear circuit rather than start with a discharged circuit. All of the Jaguar Specialists that I deal with, use the Teves recommended approach rather than Jaguar's original documentation. That's the way that I have done it for the last 18 years and it's always been successful.

The Teves approach is:

TURN ON IGNITION AND WAIT UNTIL BOTH ABS AND LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS HAVE EXTINGUISHED AND ALSO THE MOTOR PUMP HAS CUT OUT.

THEN, OPEN REAR LEFT BLEED NIPPLE AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL DOWN, WITH IGNITION ON FOR 15 SECONDS – NO MORE

TIGHTEN BLEED NIPPLE, TURN OFF IGNITION, RELEASE BRAKE PEDAL.
WAIT ONE MINUTE AND REPEAT FROM RESTORING SYSTEM PRESSURE AS ABOVE FOR OTHER NIPPLE..

THEN WAIT ONE MINUTE AT LEAST BEFORE MOVING TO FRONT BRAKES – THIS PREVENTS THE MOTOR PUMP FROM OVERHEATING.
AT THE FRONT, ENSURE SYSTEM PRESSURE IS CREATED AND THEN BLEED CALIPERS CONVENTIONALLY WITH IGNITION ON, USING SLOW STROKES AND GO THE FULL TRAVEL BUT DO NOT FORCE.
ONCE THE LEFT SIDE HAS BEEN DONE, AGAIN WAIT ONE MINUTE AND THEN RESTORE SYSTEM PRESSURE.BEFORE DOING THE RIGHT SIDE.

Good luck

Paul

 

This is how I bled my brakes on my car. No problems and the change of fluid and bleed sorted my sinking pedal problem.
Rob.

 

I finally had a chance to bleed the brakes today. Everything went smoothly and I followed the method which Paul described.
Although the car stopped straight as an arrow before I changed the calipers, rotor, pads and hoses in all four corners I can not tell you without any doubt that the calipers were hanging on the front calipers. As the brake pads came out with no wear whatsoever from the rear the rear calipers were not working (possible due to bad hoses). As a result the car is driving so much better. It feels like it is 1000 pounds lighter! As far as the brakes go they are working extremely well now. The pedal is no longer hard as a rock to push and the car is stopping better. I can not believe that I can come to a complete stop from 70 mph without touching the steering wheel and the car is 25 years old. I love my Jaguar!

The complete job went relatively smoothly. The brake hoses took a while but again not the worst. This car seems to be the easiest car I had ever worked on. And it is made so well!

Thanks for every ones support!

 

hi can anyone tell me what is the procedure to bleed the low pressure side.

Meaning, what level should be in the reservoir. ( to the really top of the neck? 2 mm below the neck?

Should i turn on ignition or off? With or without the low pressure hose unplug on hose clip side or pin clip side( pump) and how much liquid i should let go thru? i'm sorry but i havent found those information and sorry if it's a basic, it's my first time on Jaguar!

 

gtv2c,

I think there's a max mark on the reservoir, but a couple of mill below the neck would be fine.

Don't turn the ignition on when you're bleeding the Low Pressure side. Just disconnect the clip and pipe, carefully ensure that fluid is consistently flowing without air and then carefully re-attach the pipe.

Good luck

Paul

 

Thank you paul for the quick response. Should i press the brake pedal to get the flow? or use the pressurisation of the reservoir?

 

Thank you paul for the quick response. Should i press the brake pedal to get the flow? or use the pressurisation of the reservoir?

1 : Low pressure entry hose clamped side
2 : Low pressure hose with tight pin clamped
3 : Hight pressure to ABS ?




4, 5 : connectors
is there a valve in between?



6 : Hight pressure fitting on ABS


what i've done so far is following procedure :

Connect 10psi to reservoir cap. Open fitting referred number two ( pin clamped one on accumulator side). let sputter and run for probably 30 sec without sputter or bubble.

then i put it back in with the pin.

Get the pressurisation thru cap off.

Level up the reservoir and close the cap ( without the pressurisation system)

turn on ignition ( light abs and lock light on for 15 sec approx, pump of accumulator run for about same time) , once lights are off and pump off, then i have helper pressing brake pedal and hold it then i open rear passenger nipple ( right side ) ( car is US, left hand drive) let it run for 15 seconds. Turn off nipple.

Then turn off ignition and then release gently the brake pedal.

i wait a minute approx and turn ignition on, wait for light and pump to turn off, then press pedal , then open nipple for 15 seconds ( it does get some liquid out but no air), turn it off, turn off ignition and release pedal.

i figure to do that process twice per caliper would help..?? ( now im doubting everything )

WAit for a minute.

Then i do same process to rear driver side caliper ( left side) with topping up reservoir.

After doing that i move to front side of the car, after waiting few minutes.

I start with right caliper ( passenger), turn on ignition, let light and pump pressurized the system and turn off. Press pedal one time tilll its hard. open nipple. Let it bleed for 2 sec, i dont see any air, only liquid.
I redo that process for a second time on that caliper and then i redo same process on driver side caliper.


Is there anything i missed?

DO i need to bleed high pressure side of system , connectors 3 4 5 in pictures??

thanks a lot to everyone who can contribute