Buzzing in the boot?
#1
Buzzing in the boot?
Hey guys,
Came back from a good run and the kitty is purring nice with its new rad hose. When I pulled in I left the car running and got the targa tops out of the trunk. While doing this I noticed a noise from under the battery that sounded almost like a high pitched door ajar sound. I think it is the electric fuel pump?
Is it normal to hear them or is it packing it in?
Thanks!
Came back from a good run and the kitty is purring nice with its new rad hose. When I pulled in I left the car running and got the targa tops out of the trunk. While doing this I noticed a noise from under the battery that sounded almost like a high pitched door ajar sound. I think it is the electric fuel pump?
Is it normal to hear them or is it packing it in?
Thanks!
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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#3
#4
As Doug said, some are noisier than others.
My '85 used to buzz along merrily, then one day, peak hour traffic, it died, bugga. Did the old SU pump thing, gave it a solid whack with the wheel wrench, got home, 6 whacks worth.
The filter is sadly the forgotten item on these cars, so my suggestion would be to change it and see if there is any audible difference, if not, change the pump, it may well be the original, and Bosch "claim" that about 160k kms is about the expected life of these EFI pumps. Mine was at 175k kms, so close enough.
The filter is behind the spare wheel in the boot (trunk), and YES, you will have fuel spill, so take the required precautions. Also you MUST depressurise the fuel system BEFORE changing the filter or pump, and disonnect the battery, just in case.
My new pump is still audible, but nowhere near the old one. My fuel filter is now located up front, under the bonnet (hood), so fuel spill is now not such a pain.
On a side note, the pump in the X300 is sometimes audible, and it is at 158k kms, getting close, but its in the tank, bugga again.
My '85 used to buzz along merrily, then one day, peak hour traffic, it died, bugga. Did the old SU pump thing, gave it a solid whack with the wheel wrench, got home, 6 whacks worth.
The filter is sadly the forgotten item on these cars, so my suggestion would be to change it and see if there is any audible difference, if not, change the pump, it may well be the original, and Bosch "claim" that about 160k kms is about the expected life of these EFI pumps. Mine was at 175k kms, so close enough.
The filter is behind the spare wheel in the boot (trunk), and YES, you will have fuel spill, so take the required precautions. Also you MUST depressurise the fuel system BEFORE changing the filter or pump, and disonnect the battery, just in case.
My new pump is still audible, but nowhere near the old one. My fuel filter is now located up front, under the bonnet (hood), so fuel spill is now not such a pain.
On a side note, the pump in the X300 is sometimes audible, and it is at 158k kms, getting close, but its in the tank, bugga again.
#5
replace fuel filter
dear All,
I have had a tremendous problem with full pumps replaced 3 in a years time. than i found out the it is the debry in the sump tank that clogs the fuel filter. replace it with part 27cbc5649 official jaguar part. This should at least fix the most of the wining.
gr,
F. Nijen Twilhaar
I have had a tremendous problem with full pumps replaced 3 in a years time. than i found out the it is the debry in the sump tank that clogs the fuel filter. replace it with part 27cbc5649 official jaguar part. This should at least fix the most of the wining.
gr,
F. Nijen Twilhaar
#7
The debris in the sump tank is going through the fuel pump BEFORE it gets to the filter, and that same debris is killing your pump. replace or clean that pastic filter on the end of the pick up tube in the sump tank, it is designed to keep the debris from getting to the pump, and they do some times fall off the pipe, so the open pipe allows dirty fuel straight to the pump, and death is inevitable.
If you are having issues with debris, flush the tanks, and/or visit a local "speed shop" and get a smallish inline filter with 1/2" inlet/outlet spigots, it may well be plastic, so you can see the gunge, and fit it in the hose from the sump tank to the pump, this is a low/zero pressure line, and this is a good extra precaution in my opinion.
I did this with 2 of those plastic filters on our S2 V12, one on each hose to the valve/pump set up in the boot. the tanks were grubby, the drain plugs siezed, and removing the tanks was out of the question at the time, so this helped until the job was done properly some years later.
If you are having issues with debris, flush the tanks, and/or visit a local "speed shop" and get a smallish inline filter with 1/2" inlet/outlet spigots, it may well be plastic, so you can see the gunge, and fit it in the hose from the sump tank to the pump, this is a low/zero pressure line, and this is a good extra precaution in my opinion.
I did this with 2 of those plastic filters on our S2 V12, one on each hose to the valve/pump set up in the boot. the tanks were grubby, the drain plugs siezed, and removing the tanks was out of the question at the time, so this helped until the job was done properly some years later.
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#8
There is normally a fairly fine gauze filter on the fuel pump pickup in the tank.This can get partially blocked and make the pump work a bit harder, so it makes more noise.
You will be able to hear it if you are looking in the boot (trunk) whilst the engine is running and you have the spare wheel cover off; this is normal.
You will be able to hear it if you are looking in the boot (trunk) whilst the engine is running and you have the spare wheel cover off; this is normal.
#9
#10
#12
NO, that will do nothing for this job.
Remove the trim panel alongside the battery, just yank it out, and you will see 2 relays sitting in coloured bases, one red base, one black base, sweet. Remove the relay in the BLACK base, that is the fuel pump relay, start the engine. It MAY start and then die, that is "de-pressurising" the fuel system. If it does not start, dont panic, it just means no fuel pressure in the rail, same thing.
Dis-connect the battery, just to be safe from sparks.
Often after sitting for 24+ hours the fuel pressure will drop to zero, sometimes not, and that is sufficient to say it is de-pressurised. However it is an unknown until you "crack" a line, and then its TOO late, fuel everywhere, and at 40+psi, NOT GOOD, or safe.
As I said before, when you change the filter, and or pump, YOU WILL HAVE FUEL SPILL, so please take the required precautions.
Once the task is complete, reconnect the battery, refit the relay and the trim, drive on.
Enjoy
Remove the trim panel alongside the battery, just yank it out, and you will see 2 relays sitting in coloured bases, one red base, one black base, sweet. Remove the relay in the BLACK base, that is the fuel pump relay, start the engine. It MAY start and then die, that is "de-pressurising" the fuel system. If it does not start, dont panic, it just means no fuel pressure in the rail, same thing.
Dis-connect the battery, just to be safe from sparks.
Often after sitting for 24+ hours the fuel pressure will drop to zero, sometimes not, and that is sufficient to say it is de-pressurised. However it is an unknown until you "crack" a line, and then its TOO late, fuel everywhere, and at 40+psi, NOT GOOD, or safe.
As I said before, when you change the filter, and or pump, YOU WILL HAVE FUEL SPILL, so please take the required precautions.
Once the task is complete, reconnect the battery, refit the relay and the trim, drive on.
Enjoy
Last edited by Grant Francis; 07-25-2010 at 04:01 AM.
#13
You have to get the special circular tool to get into the fuel pump (under the battery). It is handy to purchase because you can also use it for the Fuel Level sender in the main fuel tank. this is the link where us Brits can get it. https://vault2.secured-url.com/jec-d...ellaneous.html
Good luck with it. And make sure if you ever going to work on the fuel system that you have ALL safety in place.
Good luck with it. And make sure if you ever going to work on the fuel system that you have ALL safety in place.
#14
You have to get the special circular tool to get into the fuel pump (under the battery). It is handy to purchase because you can also use it for the Fuel Level sender in the main fuel tank. this is the link where us Brits can get it. https://vault2.secured-url.com/jec-d...ellaneous.html
Good luck with it. And make sure if you ever going to work on the fuel system that you have ALL safety in place.
Good luck with it. And make sure if you ever going to work on the fuel system that you have ALL safety in place.
the actual fuel pump is sitting in a little tube and just slides out, the fuel filter just has a small bracket it on it you unbolt.
if this is for the sending unit that can easily be taken on with a thick flathead screwdriver and a hammer.
also as francis said you will get fuel spills.
take out the carpet and have some water nearby, if its not already out remove some of the drain plugs from the floor, whenever you spill any gas splash water on the area, dry it off when you are done and you should be already.
I had an "open oil pan" kinda thing to let out excess fuel into.
#15
Yep, our "older" Jags have the fuel pump outside the fuel tank.
That nice looking "special tool" is the obvious best choice. I use a brass punch, NO sparks, and tap the ring in an anti-clockwise direction to remove it, and clockwise to refit it.
I would suggest getting a seal for the sump tank opening, same as the seal for the tank sender unit. It will possibly NOT reseal once disturbed, of course you could be lucky, I was not.
Directly under the small sump tank is a drain spigot, and below that a rubber bung in the floor of the boot, and if luck is on your side it all lines up, haha. Drain the main tank via the filler pipe (syphon it out into a suitable sized container), and then drain the rest from the sump tank via the drain spigot, it will be about 8-10ltrs, so be prepared. That then gives almost zero fuel in the tanks, and allow you to open the sump tank to clean/replace/whatever, the nylon filter inside it.
This tank draining does NOT de-pressurise the system, that is a seperate operation as explained previously.
If you are only doing the pump and filter, simply clamping the "large" hose going into the top of the fuel pump will stem the fuel flow from the tank/s while you change those items. I use 2 pieces of timber with a simple "G" clamp, works sweet and does not damage the hose.
That nice looking "special tool" is the obvious best choice. I use a brass punch, NO sparks, and tap the ring in an anti-clockwise direction to remove it, and clockwise to refit it.
I would suggest getting a seal for the sump tank opening, same as the seal for the tank sender unit. It will possibly NOT reseal once disturbed, of course you could be lucky, I was not.
Directly under the small sump tank is a drain spigot, and below that a rubber bung in the floor of the boot, and if luck is on your side it all lines up, haha. Drain the main tank via the filler pipe (syphon it out into a suitable sized container), and then drain the rest from the sump tank via the drain spigot, it will be about 8-10ltrs, so be prepared. That then gives almost zero fuel in the tanks, and allow you to open the sump tank to clean/replace/whatever, the nylon filter inside it.
This tank draining does NOT de-pressurise the system, that is a seperate operation as explained previously.
If you are only doing the pump and filter, simply clamping the "large" hose going into the top of the fuel pump will stem the fuel flow from the tank/s while you change those items. I use 2 pieces of timber with a simple "G" clamp, works sweet and does not damage the hose.
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