Cherry Blossom - Restoration 1990 XJS V12
#281
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orangeblossom (10-30-2016)
#283
Today I put the Water Trap that I got from the Scrap Yard on my Compressor and I think the 'Thingy' on top is a Charcoal Filter?
I'm hoping the 'Thing' in the middle is a Water Trap.
The connection before the Water Trap is just for blowing dust off stuff, while the other one should hopefully Blow Dry Air.
I'm hoping the 'Thing' in the middle is a Water Trap.
The connection before the Water Trap is just for blowing dust off stuff, while the other one should hopefully Blow Dry Air.
Last edited by orangeblossom; 10-31-2016 at 05:57 PM.
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paulyling (10-31-2016)
#284
Filling my XJS with Antifreeze
When I fitted my re-cored Radiator, I filled it up with Tap Water just to Test it out for any leaks and was getting a bit of a Weep from the Bottom Hose but as I'd done the Clip up tight, I thought that in time it might Stop.
So as I wasn't using the Car or even Starting Her up, I thought that I would leave it till I got some Antifreeze and do it then.
During which time 'Grant' aka 'The Wizard of Oz' told me where I'd gone wrong, as I was supposed to put the Clip right behind the Ridge of the Bottom Hose Outlet.
So after getting the Antifreeze, I set about draining the Water out of the Radiator by removing the Bottom Hose, which can be a PIA at the best of times, except that I'd used a 'Mikalor' Hose Clip which is done up with a Spanner or a Socket.
Which does make the Job a lot easier.
The elusive hard to reach Hose Clip on the Bottom Hose.
When I drained the Water out, I turned the Clip round so I could do it up from the Top with an Extension Socket.
By Turning the Clip on the Bottom Hose, I can now reach it from the Top with a long Extension Socket which makes it a whole lot easier.
When I finally got the Bottom Hose off, there was hardly any Water in the Radiator, so this time I took 'Grants' advice and positioned the Clip just behind the ridge on the Bottom Hose outlet.
This seemed to work as I still cant see any Weeping from the Bottom Hose.
As I've got very hard water in my Area, I was advised by some Forum Members to Mix the Antifreeze 50/50 with Distilled or De-ionised Water, so I got some and did just that.
De-ionised Water and Antifreeze already for mixing together.
All mixed up and ready to go in the Rad.
I can't believe I'm doing this as I would use Tap Water in any other Car, so this takes Decadence to another level.
I just hope the Neighbours aren't watching or they'll think I've won the Lottery (Again!)
Only a Tenner last time, so I guess that pays for the Water.
No Expense spared, I bought a New Jug and Funnel especially for the occasion!
So as I wasn't using the Car or even Starting Her up, I thought that I would leave it till I got some Antifreeze and do it then.
During which time 'Grant' aka 'The Wizard of Oz' told me where I'd gone wrong, as I was supposed to put the Clip right behind the Ridge of the Bottom Hose Outlet.
So after getting the Antifreeze, I set about draining the Water out of the Radiator by removing the Bottom Hose, which can be a PIA at the best of times, except that I'd used a 'Mikalor' Hose Clip which is done up with a Spanner or a Socket.
Which does make the Job a lot easier.
The elusive hard to reach Hose Clip on the Bottom Hose.
When I drained the Water out, I turned the Clip round so I could do it up from the Top with an Extension Socket.
By Turning the Clip on the Bottom Hose, I can now reach it from the Top with a long Extension Socket which makes it a whole lot easier.
When I finally got the Bottom Hose off, there was hardly any Water in the Radiator, so this time I took 'Grants' advice and positioned the Clip just behind the ridge on the Bottom Hose outlet.
This seemed to work as I still cant see any Weeping from the Bottom Hose.
As I've got very hard water in my Area, I was advised by some Forum Members to Mix the Antifreeze 50/50 with Distilled or De-ionised Water, so I got some and did just that.
De-ionised Water and Antifreeze already for mixing together.
All mixed up and ready to go in the Rad.
I can't believe I'm doing this as I would use Tap Water in any other Car, so this takes Decadence to another level.
I just hope the Neighbours aren't watching or they'll think I've won the Lottery (Again!)
Only a Tenner last time, so I guess that pays for the Water.
No Expense spared, I bought a New Jug and Funnel especially for the occasion!
The following 4 users liked this post by orangeblossom:
#285
OB,
Good work. I admit that I get very precise when replacing jubilee clips, working out which is the best position for future maintenance, and then ensuring that I have optimal access with a socket. Like all of you, i have spent many hours trying to reach a jubilee clip and wondering why on earth the previous owner (or manufacturer!) decided to orientate it in that particular direction. The bottom hose on a Renault 1.2 Clio is a specific case in point......
Paul
Good work. I admit that I get very precise when replacing jubilee clips, working out which is the best position for future maintenance, and then ensuring that I have optimal access with a socket. Like all of you, i have spent many hours trying to reach a jubilee clip and wondering why on earth the previous owner (or manufacturer!) decided to orientate it in that particular direction. The bottom hose on a Renault 1.2 Clio is a specific case in point......
Paul
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orangeblossom (10-31-2016)
#286
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orangeblossom (10-31-2016)
#289
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orangeblossom (10-31-2016)
#290
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orangeblossom (10-31-2016)
#292
The following 2 users liked this post by Daim:
orangeblossom (10-31-2016),
paulyling (11-01-2016)
#293
With New Brake Pipes on Order (Two Fronts and a Rear) It was now time to remove the Old Flexible Brake Pipes.
As expected they were Rusted absolutely Solid.
Rusted Solid on both sides and the only way to get them off was with a Cutting Disc on an Angle Grinder!
Time for 'The Nuclear Option' sometimes it really is the only way.
I told you they were Rusty!
No amount of Penetrating Oil was gonna shift that!
Nearly There! Lots of patience and a steady hand but don't cut through the Sensor Wires which are just above it.
Finally out and all ready for the New Flexible Brake Pipes (When they arrive!)
All you need is a drop of 'Sea Air' and this happens!
My Sharpest Tool in the Box
A pair of Am-Tech 9in Locking Pliers
However did I manage all these years without them.
Ebay: Around £5
As expected they were Rusted absolutely Solid.
Rusted Solid on both sides and the only way to get them off was with a Cutting Disc on an Angle Grinder!
Time for 'The Nuclear Option' sometimes it really is the only way.
I told you they were Rusty!
No amount of Penetrating Oil was gonna shift that!
Nearly There! Lots of patience and a steady hand but don't cut through the Sensor Wires which are just above it.
Finally out and all ready for the New Flexible Brake Pipes (When they arrive!)
All you need is a drop of 'Sea Air' and this happens!
My Sharpest Tool in the Box
A pair of Am-Tech 9in Locking Pliers
However did I manage all these years without them.
Ebay: Around £5
Last edited by orangeblossom; 10-31-2016 at 06:39 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by orangeblossom:
#294
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orangeblossom (11-01-2016),
paulyling (11-01-2016)
#296
The next Stage didn't exactly go according to plan!
First they sent the wrong Brake Pipes and then they sent the wrong nuts!
Just a tad on the large side for an XJS!
Pic was on an Old Brake Pipe while waiting for the New ones to arrive.
So while I was getting all that sorted out, I finished off doing the Calipers.
by using a 'Torque Wrench' to tighten the 'Caliper Bolts' doing this in increments up to 50ft lbs.
Using a 'Torque Wrench' to tighten the Caliper Bolts.
Caliper Bolts Tightened up to 50ft lbs
Having Tightened the Caliper Bolts to 50ft lbs the next job was to put the Locking Wire on.
Stainless Steel Locking Wire to Lock the Caliper Bolts.
Putting on the Locking Wire.
You do get Prizes for Neatness
obviously a talent going to waste.
First they sent the wrong Brake Pipes and then they sent the wrong nuts!
Just a tad on the large side for an XJS!
Pic was on an Old Brake Pipe while waiting for the New ones to arrive.
So while I was getting all that sorted out, I finished off doing the Calipers.
by using a 'Torque Wrench' to tighten the 'Caliper Bolts' doing this in increments up to 50ft lbs.
Using a 'Torque Wrench' to tighten the Caliper Bolts.
Caliper Bolts Tightened up to 50ft lbs
Having Tightened the Caliper Bolts to 50ft lbs the next job was to put the Locking Wire on.
Stainless Steel Locking Wire to Lock the Caliper Bolts.
Putting on the Locking Wire.
You do get Prizes for Neatness
obviously a talent going to waste.
The following 2 users liked this post by orangeblossom:
Greg in France (11-06-2016),
paulyling (11-05-2016)
#297
Nice one OB. I didn't realise there was nuts with the holes drilled out for locking wire. Is that just for the brake calipers? You'd be "nuts" not to install them though
We use that wire all over the rig up at heights in our derrick and top drive as a nut like that falling from heights is very dangerous
We have a special tool for that wire. Basically like a pair of plyers but has a locking mechanisim and a spindle. You pull back and "wella" it twists all your wire. (probably over kill if you don't have to do too many though).
We use that wire all over the rig up at heights in our derrick and top drive as a nut like that falling from heights is very dangerous
We have a special tool for that wire. Basically like a pair of plyers but has a locking mechanisim and a spindle. You pull back and "wella" it twists all your wire. (probably over kill if you don't have to do too many though).
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orangeblossom (11-06-2016)
#298
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#299
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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