Hey Greg,

they are actually M8 nuts to be precise

Inlet Manifold-5.3 Litre-Up to (E) 8S.64244 - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

But that is for all vehicles from VIN 139052-179736... Is yours somewhere along the lines of this?

I remember somewhere stating that I think the M8 thread was nearly identical to an imperial one (3/8" UNF!?) and it would nearly be perfect, but after something like 10 turns, it can crossthread... Might really be M8s on your's too... Who knows

 

My car being 1985 is an earlier VIN. The JCP site only goes back to 1987 models, even though most bits are identical on all HE models. My engine number is in the 33000 range.

I seem to remember that mine are definitely UNF on the top thread of the studs, but I have not rechecked before bravely writing this. In any event, M8s will not fit any UNF thread, normal metric is a much coarser thread, and will, as you say cross thread them. It is also very easy to mistake metric fine thread for UNF as well, but they too will cross thread. The front calliper and front upright to steering arm fixing bolts are all three metric fine thread, but many people mistake them for UNF. All part of Doug's "interesting engineering features"!


Greg

 

That explains a good bit then Greg... Good bit older car. I wonder if Jaguar will ever get around to updating the site to show older cars? I think the site is great as such... But would like to see older parts available, as it would help if a part in newer style isn't available bit in older style is...

 

Whew:


My basic theorem is that I can never have too many tools. And, I have my biases.


1. Avoid pliers, pipe wrenches, monkey wrenches, crescent wrenches and even open ended "spanners" and the like wherever possible.


2. Use sockets wherever possible. Next best is a closed end "ring" wrench.


3. Eliminate slotted fasteners as I go. Allen heads first choice. Cap heads next best.


As my Jeep has a bunch of TORX fasteners, I added to my sockets. 1/4" drive sockets. worked out nicely when replacing it's hatch struts. Needed to protect my noggin!!


I take AF to mean SAE? Well, most of my tools are the latter. Although I have a fair selection of metrics.


Drives for sockets, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". various rachets and extensions for each.


And, a selection of heavy duty 1/2" drive impact deep sockets.


A couple of "break over bars in 1/2" for the tough nuts. Cheaters use OK here.


About four or five boxes of odd bits. Allen, Pozi, Phillips, and some I no idea.


And one box of mixed sockets, little ones.


Arrangemts key. Finding tools only deters from the mission.


And, when on task, I use a pan. At times two. Keep fasteners, parts and tools in them
not scattered about the bench, the floor or worse yet in crevices on the car....
Lost a socket that way.....


it was fun using a long extension and a drill driver to swap out the struts. Kinda like a pro!


Carl!

 

Magnetic pans are a good start. Nearly all screws are steel so magnetic pots can help keep them where you want them to be...

 

You can forget that idea Daim! But luckily, apart from fixing sizes, most parts are exactly the same on HE cars.
I have just taken a look at my spare engine, also Lucas ignition but in the 45000 range. It has the 13mm nuts on 8mm threads on the inlet manifold studs, like yours. Also the studs stick up much higher through the manifold than on my car's engine. My car's engine has 1/2 AF nuts on UNF threads.


I love all this XJS nerd stuff!
Cheers
Greg

 

Me too! I love finding out all the little quirks. Like the BL emblem under the TB pulley (it is there, just tiny) or under the throttle pedastal... Or the old Jaguar logo on the left side of the engine. Or the "fake" Lucas parts (TPR) with a Lucas sticker covering a Bosch logo

And then all the thread sizes and co. And then moments where you think "Why on earth did they do that for?" like for the dipstick pipe having no seal at the bottom... Or the 4 fanbelts instead of one longer routed one...

But then, we are all here because we like our cars

 

Post Script:


I forgot, I've two Whitworth "ring' or as we term them box wrenches.


And, It took one to undo the Ujoint flange bolts at the differential.


Where did I find them? Long forgotten?


Carl

 

I feel a Spanner Thread coming on and I will get around to replying, as soon as my head

stops Spinning.

Who ever invented the Mole Wrench and the FBH deserves a Medal!
The only Tools I 'thought' I'd ever need! (up until now!)

 

Tools belong to a "belief" section. There are brands, types, etc. and everyone has an opinion about them.

I swear by using "mid range" priced tools. Some people say "biggest crud" and buy a spanner for the same price as an entire mid ranged kit and use it one time and are utterly impressed with the quality...

My dad always taught me: "Use the right tool for the job, never improvise if you don't have to".

So far, all my nuts and bolts on my car have simply undone with ease. Those, which wouldn't were already "treated" by a previous owner with wrong tools...

 

Mole wrench???


Here, in the USA, we have a pricey name brand. Tool trucks, as franchise owners tour the pro shops and sell their wares. Nice stuff, in looksa and performance. I think I've a few. Fits just right, a professional with pride in his craft and the tools he uses to pursue it.


In my opinion over kill for the average DIY guy like me. One grade down. Still sturdy, look good and function well. And, a lot of mine are sub grades to that. For me, still OK.


Now, a couple of decades ago, some real junk came in tot he country. Dirt cheap and that was it's worth. Two bucks bought me a tin box and a nice looking set of sockets and drives. OOOPs. twisted off the nose of the break over bar!!! Since tossing stuff has always been hard for me. I have that set. Down in the bottom of a box in my Jeep for road side emergency????


Carl

 

A long time ago I bought myself a spanner with ring set (metric) from a discount store here. I paid something like €5 (so maybe $6/£4). I used them ONCE... And then threw them out. They were just rubbish. I went to undo a 12 mm screw. Wasn't rusty as hell. Had just not been removed for 10 years. I put the spanner on it and before the screw could even move a little, the ring just bent. I used one of my Dad's "Halfords" spanners, and it came undone really easy. I tried the 13 mm on a different screw. The ring just snapped off. Used my Dad's "Halfords" set and the screw just came undone as if there was nothing to it...

Since then, I don't buy really cheap. Good mid range isn't cheap nor expensive. €7-10 for a socket or extension, €10-15 for a ratchet, ... Mostly over Amazon when they have their "sales".

 

Hi Daim

In the very unlikely event that you ever get bored,

In view of what You and Greg have said, I think I better buy another Socket Set or Two.

I've always been a bit wary of buying stuff in a kit, as some of them seem to include lots of Stuff that I would seldom use.

So in the main I much prefer the Tools to do the Job, rather than a pretty box that's full of other things I might not need.

But having said that, I did come across this Socket Set on ebay, so what do you think?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/41pc-1-2-i...QAAOSw-kdXznvL

Unless you've got time on your hands to try and find me something better, as I really don't have much of an idea what I am looking for.

 

I'm with you Daim

Mid-Range works for me!

You could have a good night out for just the price of one of those expensive upmarket Spanners,
although I'm quite Tempted by these (Lol!)

Ring Spanner Gedore 75mm x 80mm Gold Plated Pick Up Lake Macquarie | eBay

 

What do you think would happen, if you took a 2p Coin and then you Stood it on its edge

on Top of the Inlet Manifold of an XJS V12 and then you revved the Engine?

Why don't you bring some Popcorn and find out

 

Well done.

A Jaguar V12, nuff said.

You are shaking MORE than any engine I have ever seen.

Still impressive and not at all surprising to me.

 

My tool selection that I remember.

WhitWorth, A/F, Metric, and some "filed to fit" specials.

Dufor., made in UK.
BriTool, made in UK.
Sidchrome, made in Australia circa 1952.
Sidchrome, Australia, circa 1967ish.
Stahlwille, made in Germany, circa 1980's.
Kingchrome, dunno.
Stanley, China.
ProTool, no idea.
ONE only SnapOn ratchet screwdriver, 1986, and cost a weeks wages.
SEK Breaker Bar.
Warren & Brown torque wrenches.

Then the boxes of oddball, that I gathered over the years. A good many came when the various V12 engines were removed from the car, lots of goodies found when that took place, and not much was mine before the event.

Still pick up the odd spanner etc when she aint looking.

 

Hi Grant

Cheers!

No JB Weld or Super Glue was used in that Production and the hardest part was standing the Coin on its edge.

So I was a little bit dubious, that what I was trying to do was a 'Bridge too far' so when the Coin didn't fall over I was amazed!

The Engine was Rock Steady by as my assistant was working, I had to hand hold the Camera and do all the other stuff, as there was not enough room to set up a Tripod.

 

Try doing it on the bit that isn't grooved.��

 

I wouldn't say that smoothness is the V12s bonus today. My old - not kidding - 4 cylinder Duratec HE in my C30 would run exceptionally smooth. I could balance a €2 coin on the cover and it would stay still - but not upon start up. Only whilst running.

The best way to test smoothness is to put a coin on the engine and THEN start it. That is where you'll separate to good and the bad. A Lexus V8 will fly through this positively