I have to replace the main drive dampening pulley. Since I am draining the fluids and removing the radiator I would like to replace the cooling system and any additional parts in the front of the engine to avoid removing the front end again if possible. I don't know if the radiator has ever replaced in the last 35 years. I am fairly sure my father has had work performed if it needed to be done. I have opened the radiator header expansion tank and put my finger inside the top part of the tank and the inside was crusty with material flaking off, so should I assume that these flakes have entered the radiator and clogged parts of the radiator? Can a radiator shop clean and seal the inside of the expansion tank to avoid purchasing a replacement? Would it be worth replacing the radiator rather than cleaning the existing radiator in the long run? I had heard that the original radiator is as good or better than the new high end radiators? Should I purchase a new original radiator, are they available or should I purchase a new radiator? I know nothing about ratings, capacity or the amount of cooling equipment for the car. What type of radiator would you recommend, same with the fans, fan motors and controls? My car has a large yellow plastic fan that shows cracking, the belt is good. I would like to replace all parts that can be worn out or limiting the full capacity of the system. I am thinking about replacing the main cooling fan, viscous fan coupling, (2) fan thermo switches, (2) switch seals, thermostat 82*or 88* (?), gasket/O'ring, low coolant probe with sealing bushing, main fan bearing. Should the Water Wetter miracle coolant be added and what type of coolant? I live in the Pacific Northwest it rarely freezes and the car will be kept in the garage and not driven when freezing. The high tep. is around 100*. regarding the small electric fan I have hear that it should be replaced. I would prefer to keep the fan in the original location behind the radiator. It is my understanding that the electric fan stops when the car is turned off. I would like to keep the fan running to cool the radiator to a proper temperature. Is the fan typically controlled by a new temperature sensor, existing sensor or a timer? Should all of the hoses be replaced with original hoses and stainless steel clamps? Should the water pump or air compressor be replaced? I know these are a lot of questions any help would be appreciated.

Good Luck,
Pat

 

Welcome to the V12 world of FUN.
Stock the beer fridge and enjoy yourself for a week or 3.

I have always had the OE radiator recored, but maybe those days and operations are gone???. Greg has used an Alloy, and I would wait for himeto stir from slumber, as he has excellent results etc.

I will attach some PDF's I wrote a good many years ago on the many subjects you have mentions.

I sue 82 stats, but read the V12 stat PDF so repeat labour is minimal.

I went Efans, NOT for everyone, but when a fan shatters, and there is NO stock in the country, Plan B, C D kicks in real quick. Never looked back.

With ALL that junk out the way, replace the rubber bung on the front A Bank side, that fills the Chain tensioner access hole. I use the OE rubber with a liberal coating of Hi Temp RTV, and call it done for another 30+ years. Some go with the alloy item made by someone, never used or seen one.

The fact you have Gunk in the header tank is a good indication that the cooling system needs some SERIOUS attention.

Stat gaskets, OE ONLY for me.

Some of the attachments will not relate to you, maybe??, so be it, I am down here, and our conditions are HARSH at best.

 

The re-coring of radiators process is alive and well in the USA, I just had a recore done on my 1987 XJS. The guy at the radiator shop said that the original Jaguar radiator is a good one, and he was not a fan of the aluminum ones, so I went with that. Car runs nice and cool now, with new water pump, stats, and I have heard a lot of horror stories regarding The Yellow Fan of Death, so that got replaced with a new black one. I followed Grant's and Greg's suggestions, and came out with a fabulous cooling system!

 

[QUOTE=Patrick 1989 XJS;2716706] I have opened the radiator header expansion tank and put my finger inside the top part of the tank and the inside was crusty with material flaking off, so should I assume that these flakes have entered the radiator and clogged parts of the radiator? Can a radiator shop clean and seal the inside of the expansion tank to avoid purchasing a replacement? Would it be worth replacing the radiator rather than cleaning the existing radiator in the long run? I had heard that the original radiator is as good or better than the new high end radiators? Should I purchase a new original radiator, are they available or should I purchase a new radiator? I know nothing about ratings, capacity or the amount of cooling equipment for the car. What type of radiator would you recommend, same with the fans, fan motors and controls?
Get the old rad recored, no question. I went to ally because I wanted to reduce front end weight chasing a problem, but they are not necessary for better cooling.

My car has a large yellow plastic fan that shows cracking, the belt is good. I would like to replace all parts that can be worn out or limiting the full capacity of the system. I am thinking about replacing the main cooling fan, viscous fan coupling, (2) fan thermo switches, (2) switch seals, thermostat 82*or 88* (?), gasket/O'ring, low coolant probe with sealing bushing, main fan bearing. Should the Water Wetter miracle coolant be added and what type of coolant?
Yes, do all of this. 82° stats. Water Wetter good and helps but not needed. Use a good Non OAT antifreeze, this is essential to protect against corrosion.

I live in the Pacific Northwest it rarely freezes and the car will be kept in the garage and not driven when freezing. The high tep. is around 100*. regarding the small electric fan I have hear that it should be replaced. I would prefer to keep the fan in the original location behind the radiator.
It is a good plan to replace the OEM small electric fan with a modern one. SPAL is the best aftermarket brand by far, but you will have to make up your own mountings to fix it to the shroud. Not hard.

I would like to keep the fan running to cool the radiator to a proper temperature. Not needed. Once the main fan stuff is sorted, and the SPAL mounted to replace the OEM electric one, nothing more is required. The OEM electric will run on if the temps is high enough. This is a factory feature.

Should all of the hoses be replaced with original hoses and stainless steel clamps? YES including the heater ones which are tricky to get at, but doable. If stuck, CAREFULLY cut along the hose length down the spigot to loosen the hose and avoid deforming the copper heater pipes
Should the water pumpYES
air compressor be replaced? best to remove the air pump.Good luck, do not hesistate to ask us if anything not clear! Grease the rear axle too, 10 greasers!

 

Patrick,
If you are seeing rust flakes at the top of your header tank, you can be sure that the bottom of it is much worse. I had one that had similar issues, then developed a small bottom leak. I took it out and discovered that the tank was full of flaking rust when I tried to flush it out. I replaced it, and cut open the old one. The bottom was paper thin from rust, and the bottom two thirds was nothing but heavy rust scale. As a minimum, I'd replace the tank, take out the radiator and at least rod it out, backflush the heater core, and make sure your large front coolant crossover pipe and the smaller bleed pipe are not ready to rust thru also. Backflush the engine, and install coolant filters as outlined in Kirby Palm's BOOK. You won't believe what the filters will catch. Use nothing but good aluminum engine compatible antifreeze (I use Zerex G50) and DISTILLED water. Get some antifreeze test strips to make sure the system is still protected as the antifreeze ages.

Jon

 

Absolutely definitely replace all the hoses even if they look fine. For a car used anything like regularly, I don't like keeping hoses more than five years max. I had one burst at speed on a hot day. Although I stopped the engine immediately, just under a year later a head gasket failed. I don't think it was a coincidence. Apart from that, the hose that failed was a smallish one at the back of the engine that runs to the heater (this is a V12 saloon, but I imagine the XJS is similar). I had a spare with me, but almost wish I hadn't. Reaching behind the cylinder head of a hot engine was very difficult - I still have the scars from the burns.

 

I have decided to replace all of the hoses, clamps (ss), valves, temperature sensors (82*), water pump, expansion tank, belts, new high output aux. electric fan (with cage), new high output main cooling fan (with cage), new pulley arm, new radiator thinking about high cooling aluminum unit $$$. Replace the Air conditioning hoses, fuel cooler, compressor, custom refrigerant hoses, flush HVAC unit in the car. The hose from the compressor has a blue filler valve that points straight up and someone must have slammed down the hood and put a dent in the hood. The custom hose will have the valve rotated approximately 15*-20* to still get to the valve. The refrigerant hose from the fuel cooler to the bulkhead sweats out (coolant?) install a new high pressure, coolant, fuel rated for the use to eliminate the sweating. You guys think this will work?