I'm getting ready for some major cooling system work on my '88. I'm putting together a shopping list and I have a few questions.

1. The "Cooling System Maintaining" .pdf I got from this forum says to replace the heater tap. Forgive my ignorance, what's a heater tap?

2. There is some discussion of thermostats not always being the right length. In my searching, I came up with PN 071-226, sold by xks.com with the note "This item replaces part number JA-EBC3576." Is this the right thermostat?

3. It says in the owner's manual not to interchange the two radiator caps, and I'm seeing some sources saying they're supposed to be different. I came up with an OEM part number of CCC6707. Is this the one for the header tank or for the filler spout? What's the other PN? Does it really matter?

 

Heater valve


No way to tell if it's the right one without measuring

A lot replacement thermostats are not correct.

I've used Jaguar-boxed thermos, sold under the actual Jaguar part number, and they've been the correct length

Back in the day I think Jaguar used two different caps but consolidated things into one part number. If you had a mind to do so you could just use a non-pressure cap on the engine mounted filler pipe.

Cheers
DD

 

In some fast research I see that the filler pipe cap (CAC4568) and the expansion tank cap (CAC5095) have indeed both be replaced by CCC6707 on the JDHT parts webpage.

I have a recollection the the original expansion tank caps came with the little attaching lanyard chain...which is no included with caps sold under the 6707 part number

Cheers
DD

 

Do you mean incorrect length? I have bough genuine Jaguar thermostats and they were 2mm too short.

 

I recall them being 41 mm, which I think was the number being bandied about at the time....4-5 years ago?

Or was it 39 mm?

Cheers
DD

 

According to what I read, the "wrong" ones are 39 mm and the "right" ones are 41.

 

OK, clearly some description issues to me being Aussie, and our terminology is odd to some, HA>

The stats need to be more than 41mm when fully open. The distance from the mounting seat of the stat (in the housing) TO the by-pass port is 41mm. The stats I use are 43mm fully open, and the sporing loaded lower disc 100% seals that port, no doubt at all. If that port is NOT sealed at APPROX engine operating temp, 30%+ of the coolant will never see the radiator, and the engine temp will continue to rise, NOT good. Stats open approx 8mm, FLAT OUT, so if the stat you have is 32mm closed, it is 40mm fully open, DUD. The ones I use are 35mm closed, and 43mm open. You do not want the stat at wide open, it has lost control of the system if that is the case. It is a valve that constantly moves, albeit small amounts, to control the flow of coolant to maintain operating temp. Thats why they need replacing at about 10 years, they simply wear out.

The caps. The cap on the meta;l header tank is teh ONLY cap controlling system pressure.
The cap on the filler spout has NO pressure input at all. It is simply used to seal the spout to atmosphere using the upper seal in that cap against the spout lip. One of mine simply has a flat blanking cap in that position, and operates NO differently to one with a pressure cap there, AGAIN, its just to seal that spout.

Generic part numbers. I use Dayco stats, Tridon if they are on special. Maybe we be spoiled for aftermarket, I doubt it.
I doubt the USA has such an aftermarket issue with these things. Sometimes forgetting its a Jaguar helps. The stats I use are for Aussie Ford, and the caps are simply "Recovery system" caps, made by CPC, or Tridon, and fit almost any car on the road. The stat part number/s are in that PDF, and I see no reason why any half decent Auto Parts Supplier cannot cross reference that number to the market of choice.I have been in Auto Parts all my life, and I am now OLD, and cross referencing was part of the daily grind, and still is.

 

I tried searching the internet and various parts suppliers with the part numbers from the .pdf. Available if I want to buy on Ebay and ship from Australia or New Zealand. Otherwise, no joy. I'll try in person at the local parts stores. I also just emailed xks.com and asked about the length of the thermostat in question.

 

The thermostats you want are Gates 33188S. Cheap on Rockauto. You will need to drill a small 5/64" hole in the flange to allow for air bleed, but otherwise they work well and close the bypass port nicely.

 

Thank you. You are a gentleman and a scholar.

 

If you need an application to buy locally, a 2000 Lincoln Town Car uses the same thermostat. The rating on the standard thermostat is 91C (195F), I used the lower temp 82 C (180F)

 

I ordered thermostats, thermostat gaskets, a heater valve, radiator caps, fan, fan clutch, water pump, belts, and a coolant hose kit. Did I miss anything?

 

That should do the trick. You shold remove your radiator while it's drained and clean out in-between the radiator and condenser if it hasn't been done.

Be very careful removing the fan, the fan and clutch need to come out as a unit, and then I lifted fan, clutch and shroud out together. It's a good idea to put a piece of cardboard against the radiator fins, as it's easy to damage the radiator with a fan blade tip while getting the fan in and out.

 

Where did you get your coolant hose kit? Looking at getting one for my '87 V12. Thanks.

 

Yup !

Actually, I'd go a step further and just have the rad professionally cleaned at the local radiator shop

In for a penny, in for a pound

Cheers
DD

 

Good list.

I dont see BEER on there, maybe a typo?

Good luck, and take your time, everyone who rushes this task damages other components, and that is just plain silly.

 

Coolant hose clamps. I’m going to be needing a set of these soon, I don’t think they came with my hoses...

 

As far as thermostats are concerned greg put me on to some really good quality ones by stant. They are correct and very well made. I can't remember the details but I'm sure Greg will put you right.

 

CLAMPS, hell yes.

AND

When fitting the clamps look at the orientation MANY times. You will need to get to all the clamps after a few hours running, to just "nip" them up a tad. Sooooo, make sure you can get at the slot/hex without dismantling half the engine bay.

 

More on clamps.....

There are some very junky brand-x clamps being sold at parts stores these days. Rough edges, and coarse/binding mechanical action .....which can be frustrating to deal with in tight quarters. Generally poor construction which means they'll loosen more easily over time and/or make it more difficult to achieve that "just right" amount of tightness

Some suppliers sell two or three different grades. You'll probably have to ask to see the 'good ones'. Do so, and compare them to the junky ones. You'll see what I mean.

If you can't easily find the high quality clamps I'd be sorely tempted to re-use the originals, personally. Jaguar used hi-grade stuff. A clean-up and dab of lubrication would be a good idea.

This may seem a little nit-picky but anyone who has been frustrated by junky clamps will know what I mean !

Cheers
DD