Gentlemen

The Mistress is getting a birthday with a new cooling system, New Ac Compressor (Sanden) and Ac hose refit, and a new Injector Harness. I will cover the AC and Inj Harness in separate posts…..oh and a 115 amp approx. alternator.

Firstly thanks to this Forum for the great info and advise which has made life with the Mistress enjoyable.

The needle on the Temp gauge was just starting to go above the N on a few occasions over summer so it was time to pull the Rad and while there what ever else needs doing.

Will be doing away with the old Fan set up and going to a twin thermo set up…..out of a BA Falcon, $50.00 from the local wreckers….happy snap attached.

Complete set of new hoses.

New Rad…..sticking with the original copper set up…..1 ½ pass…re core $800.00…..! Radiator repairs in Midland ? Leo's Radiators .!...i did quite a bit of research on this and the only benefit I could understand from the Aluminium set up was the weight saving….it was going to be over 1 large (1K) to have the Aluminium one made. Keeping the plumbing the same as well……!....If Aluminium was available at the going rate of other radiators….ie about $300 then I probably would have gone that way.

Anyway the Rad is out and a few photo’s attached….if I new the state it was in it would have been out a lot earlier…..other otherwise the rest of the system ie water pump, thermos housings and other spigots are in VG condition.

Away again with work for a few weeks so the plan is to have the Radiator done when I am back in town next and commence the re install

Thermostats will be as per Grant Francis advise the Dayco DT24A.

Any input would be welcome as always or if there any questions…..?

All Good

Darren

84V12HE….the Mistress

 

All very good things to do. Congratulations. Just a tip, when you send your rad to be recored, make a wooden template in a wide U shape, which shows the positions of the sides relative to the fixing pegs on the rad bottom. Then when the guys are fixing the new core into the side tanks, they can be sure all is exactly in the same position. You only need to be a half inch or so out, and the rad sides jam against the body and the locating pegs will not go into their holes in the cross member.
Greg

 

I have seen radiators like that before.

Gregs advice is absolutely sound, as they will get it wrong, either the top or bottom, and then its all gotta be stripped and retinned and resoldered, PITA, and they usually mess something up the 2nd time round coz they be p*&&ed off.