Evans Coolant
#1
11-24-2016, 10:46 AM
#2
11-24-2016, 12:25 PM
Veteran Member
Ken
Here is my take: EWC is 100% glycol. Normal antifreeze when made up is 30 to 50% depending upon temperature protection required. Glycol is NOT repeat NOT as good at removing heat as pure water. 50% glycol mix is NOT as good at removing heat as pure water, but considerably better than 100% glycol.
The sole advantage of using 100% glycol is that, apparently, its boiling point is so high there is a reduced chance of localised steam pockets forming in the heads. Therefore, the story goes, as steam pockets cannot remove much heat, the engine is better protected as heat will always be being removed. However, to counter this, is the fact that because glycol does not remove heat very well, the entire engine's water jacket will be running at a much higher temperature. Maybe about 50-70% higher (ie 160C instead of 90C). Therefore so will the oil be running hotter. Therefore under-bonnet temperatures will be far higher, and it is these temperatures which cause many of the problems in the V12 as it ages, because the rubber products, loom insulation etc all get cooked.
Glycol is extremely dangerous to human skin when hot and in the event of an accident will if it hits your skin do very serious damage - so will 40% hot water/glycol mix, but a 100% glycol burn is far more serious even than this. Many of the serious burns to flyers in WWII were caused by boiling glycol.
So if your car's cooling system is working properly, there is no advantage from 100% glycol, and many disadvantages. If it is not, there is no advantage. Placing more of a heat load into the engine and the engine bay is, I believe, the last thing a V12 engine or its owner should do.
If you are worried about cooling efficiency, a wizard ally radiator, fitting thinner bonnet insulation to promote airflow into the engine bay, ditching the radiator foams for the same reason, and installing an electric fan setup is a far far better way to protect you car from overheating.
Greg
Here is my take: EWC is 100% glycol. Normal antifreeze when made up is 30 to 50% depending upon temperature protection required. Glycol is NOT repeat NOT as good at removing heat as pure water. 50% glycol mix is NOT as good at removing heat as pure water, but considerably better than 100% glycol.
The sole advantage of using 100% glycol is that, apparently, its boiling point is so high there is a reduced chance of localised steam pockets forming in the heads. Therefore, the story goes, as steam pockets cannot remove much heat, the engine is better protected as heat will always be being removed. However, to counter this, is the fact that because glycol does not remove heat very well, the entire engine's water jacket will be running at a much higher temperature. Maybe about 50-70% higher (ie 160C instead of 90C). Therefore so will the oil be running hotter. Therefore under-bonnet temperatures will be far higher, and it is these temperatures which cause many of the problems in the V12 as it ages, because the rubber products, loom insulation etc all get cooked.
Glycol is extremely dangerous to human skin when hot and in the event of an accident will if it hits your skin do very serious damage - so will 40% hot water/glycol mix, but a 100% glycol burn is far more serious even than this. Many of the serious burns to flyers in WWII were caused by boiling glycol.
So if your car's cooling system is working properly, there is no advantage from 100% glycol, and many disadvantages. If it is not, there is no advantage. Placing more of a heat load into the engine and the engine bay is, I believe, the last thing a V12 engine or its owner should do.
If you are worried about cooling efficiency, a wizard ally radiator, fitting thinner bonnet insulation to promote airflow into the engine bay, ditching the radiator foams for the same reason, and installing an electric fan setup is a far far better way to protect you car from overheating.
Greg
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#3
11-24-2016, 02:10 PM
Greg,
You always have the clearest and greatest explanations !!! Thank you. I do not have a problem but read an article in some classic car mag praising the product. You are correct, I do not need to increase heat under the bonnet... So instead of a lesson incorrectly learned, I will forget !! In the ensuing time, I've discovered (in my other post today) that my 30amp abs fuse blows when I turn on the ignition !! So I am going into the trunk on the left rear side to run a diagnosis on the ecu per the Palm Bible !! Any other suggestions are appreciated. btw, have been recently seeing some horrific utubes regarding the problems being caused by those "assimilating" to France !! Having lived in Belgium for 3 years while at SHAPE headquarters and speaking French (45 years ago), I have some concerns. Will get a report on London when my daughter returns from a revisit next week with her kids.... bonne soirée mon ami
You always have the clearest and greatest explanations !!! Thank you. I do not have a problem but read an article in some classic car mag praising the product. You are correct, I do not need to increase heat under the bonnet... So instead of a lesson incorrectly learned, I will forget !! In the ensuing time, I've discovered (in my other post today) that my 30amp abs fuse blows when I turn on the ignition !! So I am going into the trunk on the left rear side to run a diagnosis on the ecu per the Palm Bible !! Any other suggestions are appreciated. btw, have been recently seeing some horrific utubes regarding the problems being caused by those "assimilating" to France !! Having lived in Belgium for 3 years while at SHAPE headquarters and speaking French (45 years ago), I have some concerns. Will get a report on London when my daughter returns from a revisit next week with her kids.... bonne soirée mon ami
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Greg in France (11-25-2016)
#4
11-24-2016, 06:17 PM
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#5
11-24-2016, 07:06 PM
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#6
11-25-2016, 01:29 AM
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I just did, Ron good plan. Lots of people against and for, but none of the disadvantages listed are denied, more along the lines of "it has not happened to me". This piece was particularly interesting, I did not realise that the stuff was easily inflammable when hot:
Waterless Engine Coolant | Oilem - Lifting the lid on the market
Greg
Waterless Engine Coolant | Oilem - Lifting the lid on the market
Greg
#7
11-25-2016, 09:11 AM
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Around here, it rarely freezes, but one can not say it never has.
So, most folks do just fine with a circa 50.50 water glycol mix.
The inhibitors being a major reason.
So, in theory, pure water plus an inhibitor. Usually an oil that will emulse. I forgot the brand name that was once popular. Mac's ???
I prefer propolene glycol as it is safer for pets if spilled.
In my past, I've encountered freeze damage to engine blocks and
heads for lack of care and/or "antifreeze". Oddly, not by me !!!
Carl
So, most folks do just fine with a circa 50.50 water glycol mix.
The inhibitors being a major reason.
So, in theory, pure water plus an inhibitor. Usually an oil that will emulse. I forgot the brand name that was once popular. Mac's ???
I prefer propolene glycol as it is safer for pets if spilled.
In my past, I've encountered freeze damage to engine blocks and
heads for lack of care and/or "antifreeze". Oddly, not by me !!!
Carl
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#8
11-25-2016, 10:08 AM
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11-25-2016, 10:14 AM
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#11
11-25-2016, 01:59 PM
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Around here, it rarely freezes, but one can not say it never has.
So, most folks do just fine with a circa 50.50 water glycol mix.
The inhibitors being a major reason.
So, in theory, pure water plus an inhibitor. Usually an oil that will emulse. I forgot the brand name that was once popular. Mac's ???
I prefer propolene glycol as it is safer for pets if spilled.
In my past, I've encountered freeze damage to engine blocks and
heads for lack of care and/or "antifreeze". Oddly, not by me !!!
Carl
So, most folks do just fine with a circa 50.50 water glycol mix.
The inhibitors being a major reason.
So, in theory, pure water plus an inhibitor. Usually an oil that will emulse. I forgot the brand name that was once popular. Mac's ???
I prefer propolene glycol as it is safer for pets if spilled.
In my past, I've encountered freeze damage to engine blocks and
heads for lack of care and/or "antifreeze". Oddly, not by me !!!
Carl
Carl; the base ingredient of Evans is POLYPROPYLENE, harmless to animals(long as they dont eat a lot of it, they usually puke it up).
polyprop. is basicly a food product, used a lot in baking things.
OK change of subject, when young and stupid, i bought a 1942 Buick Century torpedo back coupe(big money $125. usd).
i find out later it was a very special Buick performance car, it was the light weight body/chassis, with the largest engine they had Roadmaster!
it had twin 2 barrel carbs(factory), larger exhaust system, higher compression ratio, and lower rear axle ratio! i found out like 10yrs later, Hey it was just an old car!
well one silly COLD night(out chasing those things that mostly wore skirts),
during the day i had drained cooling system and flushed and filled with fresh water, well girl called and said lets go someplace, i jumped in my 1941 Ford coupe and off we went, went home late(tired) went to bed, that night temps went down into the teens F*, split that cylnder block wide open 2 ft. crack.
seems as tho nothing mattered anyway(1950s), junked it,got i donno $30/40. for scrape metal.
old saying "**** happens".
#12
11-26-2016, 09:49 AM
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Ugh, the pain only eased by not knowing what you had. Or perhaps the night away was compensatory, the skirt thing....
Yup, the Century. The original muscle car. Essentialy, the "Special" body with the big cube "Road Master" engine.
Indeed, at the time, it was termed "compound carburation". Front carb complete for ordinary operation, the rear to come on at more than 3/4 throttle. The rear one sans idle jets.
I almost had a chance at one!!! In the junk line at a gas station where I worked. Sans front clip. A smash up. My boss would've given it to me if I fixed it. But where in h... was a 21 year old to fund a used clip, even he could find one...
Son sent me link for a You tube series on "hillbilly ingenuity". The building of a 4x4 wrecker from odd lot parts. I veered in to firing up old cars and engines. Buick Century amongst them. Search You Tube.
The Century concept lived on up til the mid 50's. Another tale for another day.
Carl
Yup, the Century. The original muscle car. Essentialy, the "Special" body with the big cube "Road Master" engine.
Indeed, at the time, it was termed "compound carburation". Front carb complete for ordinary operation, the rear to come on at more than 3/4 throttle. The rear one sans idle jets.
I almost had a chance at one!!! In the junk line at a gas station where I worked. Sans front clip. A smash up. My boss would've given it to me if I fixed it. But where in h... was a 21 year old to fund a used clip, even he could find one...
Son sent me link for a You tube series on "hillbilly ingenuity". The building of a 4x4 wrecker from odd lot parts. I veered in to firing up old cars and engines. Buick Century amongst them. Search You Tube.
The Century concept lived on up til the mid 50's. Another tale for another day.
Carl
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ronbros (11-27-2016)