I've pulled apart my driver's door (that interior panel removal is a snap!) in hopes of finding that the linkage had been undone somehow only to find that this, sadly, isn't the case. It seems the metal's actually broken between the handle and the linkage, which is apparently not uncommon. I can't think of any way to reliably fix it that wouldn't require complete removal and disassembly.

I'm going to have another look at it tomorrow, but I could use some pointers: What's the best way to remove it?

In the (very likely) event that I have to replace it, are there known good sources, or am I pretty much at the mercy of what eBay and the junkyards have? Even then, is there a way to exchange the lock cylinder if I do get a used unit?

Unfortunately, I didn't think to take pictures while I was back there.

 

the door handle ( exterior ) is quite easy to remove

there is a holding clamp with some very small nuts holding it all together, then the handle just removes outwards popping of the rod links as you go

the lock barrel can be changed but is fiddly

beware of replacements , the lock orientation and connecting rods changed several times over the years, mainly the cam on the back of the lock

so get a matching one

i take it your handle is on the left of the car ,


the internal handle is just as simple , if not more, but you need to adjust the buffer tension so the lock doesn't ' bounce ' when shutting the door , it has to be ' just so '

good luck

BB

 

Thanks for the reply. The handle in question is on the left side of the car. I saw one nut back there that looked integral to the whole operation, but it didn't exactly fit my definition of "very small" (11mm - 13mm maybe?) so I'l have to get a closer look the next time I'm back there.

I'm no stranger to fiddly, but tips for changing the lock barrel in the handle might very well be my next post.

I did a bit of research on finding a replacement, and it seems that at least '82 - '89 had the same type of handle, and I'm fortunate enough to have about three handles available (from cars between '86 and '89) in junkyards within reasonable driving distance.

This will at least give me something to do next weekend. I'm no stranger to junkyarding in the snow.

 

when i needed both sides, i went a different route,

non at all ,electric openers,key fob!

no more worries in that area!

 

yeah you need to just find a replacement handle from another car. Mine was like this when I got it. There isn't anyway to repair it, because it is fragile pot metal.

The best thing is to get another one and adjust it well so damage that caused the original to break is unlikely. In a few decades there will be repros as the used market diminishes.

I have not found documentation anywhere or been around enough other XJSs to see for myself, but the pre-facelift cars have two different door handles. They look nearly identical from the outside and both fit just fine, but the inside of the handle, where you fingertips touch to squeeze, it rounded and smooth on one version, and flat and square on another.

My 1988 came with the blockly flat handles and I replaced the drivers side with a smooth one.

Eventually it started not working well and sometimes not opening the door unless i squeezed quickly, additional adjustment was necessary, to the tune of relocating one of the adjustable linkage ties to allow for more adjustment. Now it works great everytime

 

.

 

Thanks for the tip, Sidescrollin. I knew pre- and post-facelift cars likely had different handles, but I was somehow under the impression that the variety ended there. As I've an '88 myself, I know what you mean by "blocky." I've a couple yards no more than an hour away that I can get the handles from for 'round 50 - 100 bucks. I might just save myself the time and order them as opposed to picking them myself - that way I can spend more time trying to figure out how to swap lock barrels.

 

idk what they got for now, but at the time many online were around 100 bucks. I lucked out and got a junkyard one for 50.

As I said, it was broken when I got the car, so I have had it since. It is honestly weird to open the passenger door, it feels like a different car. The rounded handles feel a lot nicer imo.

I don't recall the specifics of changing the lock, so it must have been pretty simple. just don't let any pins coming flying out and lose track of them

 

Thanks for all your help, guys. I managed to find one for 25 bucks. Took a few hours to do (most of it was dropping and picking up the same small nuts in an attempt to get them to thread against all odds in a space where my hands were never meant to go) but it works. I can get in and out of my vehicle like a normal freaking human being.

The lock barrel was amazingly easy to replace. Once I took off the C clip, I just kept the barrel perfectly vertical until I installed it into the new handle. Everything kind of stacks together logically, and even that spring that I thought was just going to explode was rather tame.

I must have disturbed the rods for the locking paddle, though. The driver's lock paddle will lock both doors, but won't unlock the passenger's door. I'll have a look tomorrow.

 

yeah they are usually all a bit different. At least with the door off it is just a trial and error, adjusting it a bit and locking/unlocking and opening from the inside and outside.


The biggest thing to watch is those little plastic clips holding all the linkages in place. Get a bit to frustrated and break one and then you are out for a couple of days while you wait for a package of 2 of the stupid things for $10 to come in the mail.

Ask me how I know.

 

Haha, Sidescrollin, I'm more interested in where you get them than how you broke them.

 

I think amazon? Maybe ebay..it was like a pack of just two. I think it was ebay because it was NOS. The clips on my MGB seem to be extremely similar though.

 

Well, now I've got a new issue: the driver's side paddle won't unlock both doors, but it will lock both doors. I think I've found the issue:

The paddle is connected via a long rod with a turnbuckle to the latch at the rear of the door which is then connected to the lock barrel, and finally via another rod to the actuator.

The long rod has plenty of "throw" to it, but where it connects to the latch it seems to lose a lot of that. By the time the rod from the barrel to the actuator comes into play, it's like it's barely moving.

Because the parts that were removed were replaced with parts that were exactly like them, and nothing was disturbed (I was pretty freaking careful even while working by glow stick) and because I was having to throw the paddle a couple times before the fix to get it to work right, my first thought is that the actuator needs replacement. Something's gotten worn out, and the push/pull on that rod needed to get the actuator's attention is more than it used to be.

Are there any other options to try first before I replace the actuator outright? I tried for quite awhile to get everything into the right place, but all the monkeying around with the placement of the door handle, the adjustment on the long rod to the paddle, and the position of the actuator amounted in nothing. I could either get the actuator to lock but not unlock, or vice versa. Never both.

 

Can you post pics of the rod that acts on the actuator?

When i replaced mine I had an issue where I could unlock the door just fine, but the door handle barely opened the door, even adjusted all the way out. I ended up having to drill a hole and move the adjuster and linkage ever further to get int the correct range.

If it is similar, the fix may involve moving or maybe fabricating a longer rod, or cutting the linkage, cutting threads on it, and putting an additional turn buckle on it

 

The rod at the very top that's kind of in the dark is the one that's not moving far enough to work the lock actuator any longer. The rods in front of the window track are of course the ones that connect to the interior door handle (top rod) and lock paddle (bottom rod.)



Except for the actual handle itself, everything else is stock - the rods, the lock barrel assembly, and even the goofy little clips.

My running theory is that the actuator is worn and needs replacement. I tried for about an hour to loosen and reposition the handle, and the actuator to find a "sweet spot" where I could bolt everything back down and have my full range of action back, but to no avail. My options were only to position everything so that the paddle would lock the door, but not unlock it, or vice versa.

I've it set back up to where the driver's door handle will lock the car, but will not trigger the actuator when I try to unlock it - I can unlock the driver's side, but to unlock the passenger's side requires me to lean across the car and use the paddle on the passenger's door.

Barring replacement of the actuator, the only thing I can think to do is move the mounting point for that top rod further from the fulcrum and hope the added travel does the trick.

 

How often do others ride with you in the car?

Setting it up to temporarily not work on the passengers side if what I would have done as well. Just don't let that get away from you and take a lifetime to repair.

Since it is disconnected, maybe you should go ahead and remove the actuator to see if its rebuildable?

Instead of moving the mounting point you could also look for a turnbuckle and then cut the linkage and put threads on it

 

I'll be happy to yank everything out once Minnesota gets some weather that doesn't suck!

Because I was having trouble with it even before the handle replacement (sometimes flipping the lever several times, or having to flip it with conviction to get it to register) I'm all but convinced it's in need of replacement. They can't be too expensive, and then I'll have a spare one to play with.