Ok, so I’ve had an apparent leak at the convertible motor, so I assumed it was the spindle gasket. Went easy and according to plan…except now I may have realized it wasn’t the gasket!

That knob at the top of the motor, Part# JLM1547, where you can switch it to manual and back, is leaking. Is there a known repair?

 

Hi Vee. It's not hard to fix. There are two rubber O rings.

 

xjsv12,

So happy to know that these are repairable!

The fluid is leaking through the handle, as you can see in the photo. There is a seal I can access in there?

 

There's a locking ring under the faucet.
That is one of O ring. Another is smaller.

 

It took me longer to figure out how to get that coil lock spring off the bottom to loosen the faucet than anything else!

Both my orings were the same size. I replaced them using NBR orings, sized 9.25mm x 1.78mm aka 3/8 x 1/16

Installed it and I am leak free! Thank you!

 

This fix is in my future - any pics / further details you can share?

 

Hope these help?

you’ll want a 1/2” wrench to get the four hoses disconnected from the valve. Have a rag ready to catch the fluid drippings. There shouldn’t be too much.




That silver lining at the underside of this valve is simply a flat “coil” lock washer. It wraps around the plastic valve handle about 1-1/2 times. You’ll need a hook or maybe small knife to start prying the end out of position, then slowly snake the rest of it off.

Once the coil lock washer is off, just push firmly on that black button and the handle will slide out.

Replace the two o-rings and lube them up with some extra hydraulic fluid. I used a MIL-PRF-5606H compatible fluid called Castrol Brayco Micronic 756 that I purchased on eBay.

 

That's brilliant, thanks!

 

Based on the spec of the hydraulic fluid, if you’re buying orings for this job, perhaps Viton was the way to go.

I’m not sure there’s any way around removing the lock spring without a pick tool. You’ll need a pointy end to grab hold of the end of the spring, and then you’ll need something with a bit of leverage to pry it up. Hook tool was the way to go for me.

 

Looking at the oringstore, I see that they spec ID, OD and CS - I am guessing the CS is 1/16", OD is 3/8"? If that's correct, what was the ID? Or have I got this completely wrong🤦

 

I think it might be the ID, but I can measure when I get home. It’s a very standard sized oring. If you have a kit, it’ll be in there. Any auto parts shop will have them as well, likely behind the counter. You’ll end up paying for half the kit, so I would recommend going on Amazon and just buying a kit for $9.

I also think I did the right thing using NBR. These orings allow the faucet to turn, so abrasiveness is valued here. I chose not to use Viton because they seems less flexible. For what these orings do, other than sealing fluid, I think NBR is the way to go here.

 

3/8” referred to to ID of the o-ring, not the outside diameter.

 

Great, thanks!

 

That paragraph took me down a Viton Vs NBR rabbit hole😂😂 Looks like, for this specific application, either will work fine - off to check what I have in the garage!
Thanks again for all the info on this thread.