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Front jack point patch panel available ? Pic of new project !
I have one jack point front right that needs some attention. I have found the replacement piece for the jack point. But the metal around it is soft. I am not sure if this is the floor pan or considered something else. Any help would be great. Also her she is an 89 BRG
The jacking point is under the bottom of the A pillar. All around it is ordinary floorpan that will not take the jacking strain. You have to get the old one out and somehow ensure the new one is connected to the A pillar, which may well involve repairing the pillar itself.
As Greg says the internal structure of the jacking point is complex and the important bit. Take a look at Part 4 of the really useful post on the Just XJS website (link below) for some great explanatory photos. The other parts are excellent references to.
As Greg says the internal structure of the jacking point is complex and the important bit. Take a look at Part 4 of the really useful post on the Just XJS website (link below) for some great explanatory photos. The other parts are excellent references to.
thanks Leep I did see those pics when I searched for jack point info. It looks pretty solid under there. I think someone may have damage the jack point which caused the issue.
I guess my only option is to dig in there and weld it all back up the best I can.
Hi,
You may be correct re the damage. There is a small next to one of my front jacking points where someone either used the wrong jack or didn't have it in the right place.
LeeP
I know my front 2 are crap. They still work but are pushed up. Due to probably both rust from sitting and misuse. When I get to it I'm just gonna put flat metal in to replace.
I know my front 2 are crap. They still work but are pushed up. Due to probably both rust from sitting and misuse. When I get to it I'm just gonna put flat metal in to replace.
But for now wood and hockey pucks will do.
Rescue
There is not really anything strong enough there to weld the flat metal to. The jacking weight really should be sent up the pillar, the sills and floor are just not up to it. If you look at the third pic on this page http://www.justxjs.co.uk/admin/resou...why-part-4.pdf
you can see the internal structure. Cutting out a bit of the back of the wheelarch to get access is not that hard, and then you can weld a really god repair quite easily, and close it up all rustproofed etc. Certainly for the front ones this is best.
You are making such a thorough job on the mechanical bits, so why not on the jacking points!
Rescue
There is not really anything strong enough there to weld the flat metal to. The jacking weight really should be sent up the pillar, the sills and floor are just not up to it. If you look at the third pic on this page http://www.justxjs.co.uk/admin/resou...why-part-4.pdf
you can see the internal structure. Cutting out a bit of the back of the wheelarch to get access is not that hard, and then you can weld a really god repair quite easily, and close it up all rustproofed etc. Certainly for the front ones this is best.
You are making such a thorough job on the mechanical bits, so why not on the jacking points!
Thanks for the advice. The only hole in floor bottom of the entire car is just behind the one jacking point (frt psg) so I'll probably have at least that one apart.
I'm not a welder but I've been meaning to start. Guess I have a reason too now lol.
Thanks for the advice. The only hole in floor bottom of the entire car is just behind the one jacking point (frt psg) so I'll probably have at least that one apart.
I'm not a welder but I've been meaning to start. Guess I have a reason too now lol.
Good for you, neither was I, but it is pretty easy to do MIG, not to do pretty welds, but to do strong ones at least! I found the only really important thing was to ensure the bits to be welded were ground to really bright metal and also to ensure a really good earth to the bright metal before starting to MIG.
Whether rotten or not, the floor and sills, except at the jacking points, will not take the jacking loads, even if plated a bit..
It looks like my structure is still pretty solid. I think I will be able to weld a new jack pad on and then patch in the damaged floor. The jack pad is available for $20 since it’s just the little round piece with the point on it.