Can anyone help with the process of front sub frame removal - specifically how to unbolt the engine mounts?

I've been trying to get a socket onto the single nut on the top of the mount, but don't think I'll be able to do it. do I have to just persevere? It's the one in the centre of the following picture, visible just below the exhaust manifold:



Is it possible to unbolt the mount assembly from the subframe, with the engine in the way? I do see some bolts around the spiky power steering cooler.

Other joys discovered:
- expansion tank was hiding rust in the panel behind the shock absorber. Luckily the shock structure itself on the wheel side seems solid, so hoping it won't be too difficult to repair the thinner skin in engine bay. It looks like the rust has established itself in the expansion tank seam too, so i'll probably replace for peace of mind rather than clean it up. It looks liek replacements are available for £90 or so.

 

Best to undo the nut on top of the rubber that holds the engine moubring bracket.

It will be even harder to remove the brackets on the front subframe.

 

I don't use a socket. I use a 'closed end wrench'....which might be known to you as a 'ring spanner'.


Sounds good, although, if rust isn't too bad and you're budget-minded, a local radiator shop (if you have one) can likely fix any leaks for a lot less money

Cheers
DD

 

You need a 9/16ths ratchet spanner (Halfords) and you can just, and I mean just, get the nut undone.
Just about impossible without them. but a ring spanner might do it, might not. A socket will definitely not get on the nut.
Greg

 

You will also need to support the engine from the top before you drop the subframe.

 

Thanks all, sorted it today with a 14mm flexible ratchet spanner. It's a bit tight over 9/16ths but does fit ok, & probably good for not rounding off!



Also got the ARB mounts disconnected. I had a minor panic when the nuts turned on the bolts as I thought they were captive to the chassis, but they are bolts you access form above with a long extension. I had to move the stainless coolant pipe (2 pozi screws) on the nearside to access.



This is on the offside:



I have the following engine beam to support while the sub frame is removed.
Any hints on where to hook the chains to?


Getting there slowly. I think the steering rack bits are next & I'll need to buy a spanner for the large front mounting bolt.
As an aside, how do you remove the offside airbox/air filter without removing the aircon pipe!?

 

If you look carefully you will see lifting eyes on each V at each end of the engine, just outboard of the cam covers. They are being used in Warrjon's beam photo.
Greg

 

Use the front lifting eyes not the rear.

 

So I've removed everything now & i'm trying to pivot the subframe down & around the 2 large front bushes, but there is still something holding it up so it only falls 5cm or so at the rear. Do I just have to manhandle it out or should I remove the front bolts completely before attempting to lower?

I have a feeling it's getting bound up between the engine mount studs & rear Vee mount studs.

 

Have you disconnected the steering column? And the earth strap?

 

And the brake flexibles? and possibly the power steering pipes, depending upon routing. If you are sure all is disconnected, then leevring the back of the subframe down is fine. No need to do more than loosen the front six shot bolts.

 

I've disconnected the Steering/brakes & the earth strap between the subframe & the NS chassis rail. It looks like there is another earth strap on the sub frame going somewhere else (to engine?); but it's slack.
I also disconnected the PS pipes out the back of the pump, & the PS cooler from the subframe.

Taken the front two bolts out now aswell, along with the shims, so it's moving about & very loose, just still appears to be hung up on the NS engine mount somehow.

 

That euphoric feeling when you accomplish something!:



It appears it was just hung up on the engine mount thread. You can see where it was catching on the engine bracket in the pic below. A bit of re-adjustment of the engine support beam hooks to raise as far as the engine fan/should would allow & I managed to wiggle it free:

 

Hello, I removed my subframe last year to carry out the same repair to the engine bay, when you cut out the rotting inner wing it will hopefully reveal the solid shocker reinforcement plate welded into the inner wheel arch. I cleaned mine up with a grit pad on my angle grinder then used rust treatment and zinc primer, then mig welded the repair plate back in. If your going to strip the subframe down Bernard embden website is a helpful read. A little word of caution, do not underestimate the compressed force of the front springs, they will launch you to the moon if you get in their way!! I would definitely to the rack bushes while the whole lot is out too. Have fun

 

Andrew, getting the engine mount stud back in is the fun part!

 

The rusty wing is a happy bonus; this is the main reason I'm dropping/replacing the subframe...



Thankfully like you say, the thicker reinforcing bit which comprises the shock mount is all in one piece, it's the thinner skin on the engine bay side which has perforated.

From a brief look the rack bushes seem solid - from research I think they're the Sportspack-style ones, so I may just leave them.

I'm really not looking forward to fighting this frame back in!

 

If they are JaguarSport bushes, leave them. They have one end much wider diameter than the other, and usually there is one each side and an ordinary one in the second hole on the side with two fixing holes.