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My 1977 had an HE transplant long time ago, and I suspect the gearbox was changed at same time and that my rear mount is custom made.
Gearbox pan has Turbomatic and Div of GMC embossed, so it’s the TH 400.
The ROM suggests I just loosen the bolts holding the pan and lowers it. This gearbox mount is for sure obstructing that.
Could someone experienced make a qualified guess of how I should proceed from here ?
Leo
To get the pan off you have to remove the rear mount, which is not easy. There are various ways of doing it, but it involves supporting the gearbox pan and the brackeT. This might help: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/
Yep, standard V12 TH400 mount, WITH collision bracket fiasco.
I have removed that collision bracket on all mine, and dropping the pan is soooo simple, as is putting it back.
That removal does not sit well with some people, but down here, it is as common as Cold Beer.
Your car, your choice.
Thanks. I had heard about that bracket, but didn’t know what it was.
What gearbox oil change interval is normal ? Mine decided to blow out most of the oil at the line to the radiator, so I was kind of forced into changing it. That also explains (most of) the oil on my photo…
ALL my Jags were the Daily Drivers for the wife, kids and me, so heaps of kms weekly.
Trans fluid, brake fluid, steer fluid, fiff oil, every 2 years, kms NOT counted.
Engine oil, 6 monthly.
Coolant, 5 years with ALL new hoses at the same time. Which included those 2 trans hose ends at the radiator.
BUT
When any of these beasts arived in the fleet, they got the Francis Major Service, which usually took about 3 weeks. That way, we were at a starting point for many, many items.
Opinions vary on change interval. For these old school transmissions every 30k miles is often suggested, or every 15k miles under severe conditions…..with severe meaning “high heat”.
If your trans oil is quite old or dirty it may take 3-4 changes to get rid of the old stuff…. as dropping the pan only partially drains the trans.
Install a drain plug while you have the pan off. This makes future changes a breeze. I drain the trans a couple times a year. This way the oil is perpetually being freshened a bit
I fully appreciate both Grant suggestion to get rid of the safety bracket and Greg’s suggestion to use threaded rods to guide the mount back in place as that was a pig of a job to do on the floor with just the front end raised. I’m not 60 yet, but getting close…
Adam’s video makes it look fairly straightforward and leaves out a few details, but it still explains the general process well. He does by the way recommend using an oil suction device for the repeated oil changes to get all oil changed.
Tomorrow it’s just the oil cooler rubber hoses that shall be replaced and then it’s oil filling time. I’m curious to see how much it will take as oil level was so low that it lost drive after being parked. I’m not too worried as it has done max 5 miles laid back city driving from a no-drip-parking to the no-drive-parking…
It’s back on the road, and it runs well !
It took 7.5 liter to fill it. I used an Dexron III semisynthetic. Idle with gear engaged seems a bit lower, and it’s thereby pulling a bit more than before when still and in gear. Shift to second at around 5700 in D.