I need help. I tried to remove outer bearing race and it came out but it was attached to some kind of spacer. Do I remove race from spacer then locktite spacer back into hub? Is the hub shot? Is this normal?
I cant find outer bearing and seals locally as the cross reference guide is wrong. Does anyone have bearing and seal part numbers.

 

Can you post a photo of what you are describing, please?
Greg

 

here are photos of the part. is this race in some kind of spacer? is this part of the bearing? Im confused.

 

Oh dear, I need a drink.

That bit in #2 looks like the cup of the bearing, and is ALWAYS a press/tight hammer fit in the hub. If that came out as easy as that, it has "spun" in the hub at some time in the past, and the hub is basically toast.

I have a Timken parts book somewhere, and when I finish the front wheel bearing on the S Type, I will look for you and post back.

 

Found it.

Front Outer is Set12, which comprises LM12749 & LM12710 (same as Aussie Ford).
Front Inner is Set13, which comprises LM68149 & LM68110 (Jag specific for the LM68110).
Front seals = 473454.

Any half decent Parts mpb, bearing supplier, will have the bearings in stock, seals, dunno.

Your location I assume is USA?, so try SNG Barratt on here, in the USA, as they often have front wheel bearing kits, including seals for minimal $.

 

The inner bearing is a 13. The outer states a 12 but it doesn't fit. The inner diameter is just a bit to tight and the outer diameter is quite a bit smaller. My car is an 89 xjs with abs. Jagbits claims to have right part so I will try them.

This pic is the bearing I found in there. The spindle is 2/3 s of bearing inner diameter. What were they thinking.

 

Does this mean the hub should be replaced as well as the bearing, Grant?

Greg

 

Greg,

If that bearing has spun in the hub, then YES. If the race has spun on the spindle, then the spindle needs replacing also. Sense of humour goes South real quick when a spindle breaks, and they do break.

The chart I used is for that year model, and is the same bearing combination right to, and including, X300. Did the Green Beast a few weeks ago. They went to "Hub Type Sealed" units from then on, big$.

I have refitted bearings into spun damaged hubs, purely as a get me home fix. Mainly on my Road Train (3 trailer semi trailer outfit unique to Aussie's). Never on a Jag. That Steel Stick stuff is a wonderful product, but not a permanent fix by any stretch of the imagination.

 

Fwiw, I'm doing my 90 abs front hubs at the moment, bearings were fortunately fine but needed new seals. As far as I can see, all parts houses list TIMKEN Part #473454**{#C45711} for this but it is incorrect. They are around 0.1 inch too large (I bought them and tried to fit). I think the ones you need are BECK/ARNLEY 0523413 (052-3413), I'll be getting these on Friday so will not be able to confirm until then.
Of course if you get the sng kit you won't have to worry about this.

 

So is this whole thing part of bearing race. It looks like the race was in this piece (photo 2)

 

The wheel bearings are a 2 piece affair.

Commonly called "cup and cone".

The part with the tapered rollers also incorporates the "inner" section that fits over the spindle, then the mating "cone" sits into the hub. The 2 mate "cup and cone", with extremely fine tolerances to give the required support for the hub.

There is a cup and cone on the inner side of the hub (usually larger than the outer), and then the same arrangement on the outer (the one you show is the outer).

The parts drawing shows NO detail, so I have not attached it. I will look in a bearing book at work today, and if there is a better schematics will copy it and post back tonight.

 

Bernard Embden's excellent website has a good description of a front hub rebuild with photographs.
http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/hub/index.htm

 

Just to round this off, here is a picture of the XJ-S 1990, with ABS, front hub seal information.
graham

 

I had my front end up in the air over the weekend and checked for any play on the front wheels, nothing on one wheel and a small amount on the other.
But very noticeable.

So my choice is to tighten the wheel bearing, or try. Or replace both. 1988 XJS.

Front Outer is Set12, which comprises LM12749 & LM12710 (same as Aussie Ford).
Front Inner is Set13, which comprises LM68149 & LM68110 (Jag specific for the LM68110).
Front seals = 473454.
Or..........
BECK/ARNLEY 0523413 (052-3413)

 

Just tighten the loose one a touch; just up to "no play" and NO tighter.

 

Odds of worn stub axle are just as good as worn bearings. Try adjusting current bearings correctly and checking for play before going the new bearing route.

 

I'll ask this just on general principles because this routine service procedure is all too often neglected.....

When was the last time the hubs and bearings were removed for cleaning and re-packing?

Cheers
DD

 

Doug,
Not by me so no idea, only owned this car for one year... the list of repair / check stuff just gets longer and longer...LOL
I will report back after pulling the wheel and having a look.
Thanks all for the info.

 

Hi

inspired by this thread I pulled LH front hub yesterday. Doesn’t look to bad, but my stub axle surely has wear at the underside at inner bearing.


Outer bearing

 

If you reassemble and nip the bearings up all the way you may find you still have some 12 o'clock 6 o'clock play. It takes very little wear to the stub axle to upset the apple cart. I would not be afraid of using loctite on the inner bearing.