Hess & Eisenhardt rear quarter window removal?
Has anyone removed the rear quarter windows in a Hess & Eisenhardt conversion?
Neither of my rear windows work. I've downloaded the pdf manual for this car but ran into a problem trying to remove these assemblies. It seems the cylinder for the top is in the way. Is there a way to get the assembly out without removing the top?
thanks
Neither of my rear windows work. I've downloaded the pdf manual for this car but ran into a problem trying to remove these assemblies. It seems the cylinder for the top is in the way. Is there a way to get the assembly out without removing the top?
thanks
If the windows aren't working, it's more likely that it's fuses or relays rather than the window motors, I would suggest.
Just go through the wiring diagram, checking for voltage at the fuse, relay and then window motor before you even think about taking the motors out.
Good luck
Paul
Just go through the wiring diagram, checking for voltage at the fuse, relay and then window motor before you even think about taking the motors out.
Good luck
Paul
Thanks for the input. I have the manual for the H&E which I downloaded from a link on this forum.
Both windows freely move up and down. I do have voltage at the plugs to the motors.
Both windows freely move up and down. I do have voltage at the plugs to the motors.
Paul,
Sorry I should have been more specific. When I said the windows move freely up and down, I should have added without power. When I got the car, the rear windows had wire wrapped around the brace to hold them up. When I took the wire off, they just slid down. I can grab the glass and easily pull them back up with minimum resistance.
Peter
Sorry I should have been more specific. When I said the windows move freely up and down, I should have added without power. When I got the car, the rear windows had wire wrapped around the brace to hold them up. When I took the wire off, they just slid down. I can grab the glass and easily pull them back up with minimum resistance.
Peter
Ptmead3,
Are teh regulators connected to the motors?
If you mean that you see 12v at the motor when you press the roof switch but the regulators aren't being moved by the motor then that would seem to imply that both motors are gone. Seems unlikely, but I guess it's possible.
Can you hear anything from the motors when you're pressing the switch and seeing the voltage flow?
Paul
Are teh regulators connected to the motors?
If you mean that you see 12v at the motor when you press the roof switch but the regulators aren't being moved by the motor then that would seem to imply that both motors are gone. Seems unlikely, but I guess it's possible.
Can you hear anything from the motors when you're pressing the switch and seeing the voltage flow?
Paul
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Paul,
I was able to get back at this today. I found a broken wire in the harness to the motor. I connected both rear windows (one at a time) to the driver's side window switch (which works fine).
I can hear the motor in both directions for both rear windows. Neither of them moves however. It seems as though both regulators are not engaging the gears, or the gears are stripped.
The service manual for this conversion says the whole assembly should come out as one unit. I don't see how it can possibly come out with the top cylinder in place, or how to fix this problem without taking the unit out, Any insight would be appreciated.
Peter
I was able to get back at this today. I found a broken wire in the harness to the motor. I connected both rear windows (one at a time) to the driver's side window switch (which works fine).
I can hear the motor in both directions for both rear windows. Neither of them moves however. It seems as though both regulators are not engaging the gears, or the gears are stripped.
The service manual for this conversion says the whole assembly should come out as one unit. I don't see how it can possibly come out with the top cylinder in place, or how to fix this problem without taking the unit out, Any insight would be appreciated.
Peter
I have an '89 factory convertible. One of the cylinders was leaking, so I removed it. It only has 3 bolts, one is a funny 17mm half round bolt, which simply took a wrench. It's not attached at the bottom, it comes right out with the lines attached top and bottom. It only took about 5 minutes to remove with the soft quarter panel off. Why not try that?
That's what I've decided to do. There is 25 years of leafs and other stuff down there that needs to be cleaned out anyway.
In the beginning of this thread, I was just following the instructions in the manual for this conversion and was wondering how they got them out without removing the cylinders (which they do not say to remove). Maybe they assume that?
Thanks for everyones insight.
Peter
In the beginning of this thread, I was just following the instructions in the manual for this conversion and was wondering how they got them out without removing the cylinders (which they do not say to remove). Maybe they assume that?
Thanks for everyones insight.
Peter
Just in case somebody reads this thread.
I was also unable to get the window out without disconnecting the cylinder.
And yes the leaves are there, full of them. As well the tooth of the motor are broke and working bad. After a renew all works fine.
I was also unable to get the window out without disconnecting the cylinder.
And yes the leaves are there, full of them. As well the tooth of the motor are broke and working bad. After a renew all works fine.
I recently completely parted out an '88 H&E convertible. I was able to remove the rear 1/4 windows with the top still on.
You may have to remove the rear area scuttling and side panels to fully access the frame mounting bolts. Once all the bolts are off and the wire unplugged the entire assembly lifts out easily.
You may have to remove the rear area scuttling and side panels to fully access the frame mounting bolts. Once all the bolts are off and the wire unplugged the entire assembly lifts out easily.
The rear window goes out with top on also without cylinder disconnected maybe but very difficult I would say.
If problem is with the motor is mostly the plastic rollers inside the head. This are available at rock auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2250&jsn=2250
Easy job to refresh the motors. maybe some O-rings will disintegrate but you shall be able to source locally.
If problem is with the motor is mostly the plastic rollers inside the head. This are available at rock auto:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2250&jsn=2250
Easy job to refresh the motors. maybe some O-rings will disintegrate but you shall be able to source locally.
The window cannot be removed simply without dismantling the pistons for the roof (at least in my experience). But the pistons are simple, they are held (if memory serves) by one screw at the top and it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulics. The window is then pulled out as a whole with the motor. It's just a good idea to draw the position of the window holder on the bases that hold it. Otherwise, after reassembly, there is a problem with the seal to the side window.
And there are supplies:
https://www.convertibletopguys.com/c...rsion#packages
And there are supplies:
https://www.convertibletopguys.com/c...rsion#packages
Last edited by roman_mg; Aug 17, 2024 at 08:04 AM.
I had the problem as you on my Hess… bits inside the motor were toast. Some Chrysler parts and it was good again. You are right that the rear motors cannot be removed without disconnecting the cylinders. The entire roof does not have to come off as you found, but those cylinders sure have to be unbolted on one end.
My question for you however, did you have to drill out the rivets? Finding the right rivets was a PITA. The clearance precluded replacing them with nuts and bolts.
My question for you however, did you have to drill out the rivets? Finding the right rivets was a PITA. The clearance precluded replacing them with nuts and bolts.
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