The quality isn't great, but I could not find a video (or even photos) of how to remove the heater core in a pre-1987 XJS, so I made one.

For those with 1987+ XJS's, follow the same process minus cutting the heater core pipes.

Hopefully this helps save someone some time.

It's better than nothing:

 

There is Nothing wrong with the quality of this video!
I have seen Professional videos of much lesser quality.
Good Job!
(';')

 

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

 

Thanks and good job. I hope I won't have to do that, but now I know it can be done.

 

MY MAN!!! Brilliant... Thanks for this.

I'm sure this is in a LOT of our futures --- if we ain't been there already! Makes so much sense. Then what,,, pull the brass/copper remnants out of the hoses in the engine bay and reconnect when the new core goes in? Share the plan Brotha...!

And,,, I'm always looking for a reason to buy a new tool!

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Happy to help; once I get my new heater core I'll make a video of the install. But the plan is pretty simple: right now each heater core pipe coming from the firewall is cut about 2 inches short of where it would usually encounter the heater core itself. So what I'll do is: 1) Cut the heater core pipes on the new heater core, 2) Install the new heater core in its little "cubby" behind the dash, and then 3) Attach heater core hoses between the cuts on the new heater core and the pipes going to the firewall. --> You can see in the video I posted where there is a "gap" in the piping for both the inlet and outlet pipes. The new heater core pipes have to be cut to install it at all, and then I'll basically be replacing the gaps with heater hose (obviously with high quality clamps as well). I ordered 5/8" heater hose from Oreilley's for a few bucks; I'll have a better idea of how it will fit in the coming days.

Either way, Part 2 of the video will shed light on all this stuff.

 

Great stuff... But I'm thinking about a potential issue, if you don't mind... believe me, I am a huge fan of out of the box thinking... Still,

Had a look at images of heater cores and the spouts are long. Didn't know you'd planned on using hose to fill gaps and I'm guessing with the loooong inlet and outlet piping it would be impossible to wiggle it in there with the dash in,,, so

Just thinking about hoses and leaks back there. Smooth pipe ends and what not,,, water under pressure. Not the usual bulbed ends on a metal pipe to hose connection helping you... Have you considered exact outer to inner diameter matches with some sections of silicone hose? Maybe even a little smaller hose ID? Tight squeeze fit even without clamps, then clamped. Maybe even a sealant of some sort to be sure-er...? Personally, like the feel of silicone hose... Just a thought.

 

Good thoughts. I will almost certainly be reinforcing the pipe-to-hose seals with high temp water pump sealant (technically a gasket maker). If the 5/8 hose isn’t super tight I’ll be going to 9/16. I believe Michael Neal used 9/16 in his initial write up and Kirby Palm used 5/8 and both deemed the project a success. There are a few threads on this method but no videos, so that’s really the only new aspect here. This approach is tried and tested.

 

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Ha! Maaaaan, I thought YOU were the outside the box thinker and inventor O this method, lol 😆

Anywho,,, looks and sounds like you got it... The video is great - and if a photo is worth $1000, a video must be worth like - $1003 and stuff.

Really though. I'm super thankful for this info.

 

Brill, great video.

 

Installation of the new heater core was difficult. I’ll put together a video of that when I’m all done, but for now I’m hoping some of you can weigh in on an issue:

The vacuum actuator lever’s movement is somewhat hindered by the additional space occupied by the heater hose (whereas before there was obviously just a pipe which had a much smaller circumference).

I took a short video showing what’s happening:
I asked David at EverydayXJ what the purpose of this vacuum actuator is, and he thinks (but isn’t 100% sure) that it has something to do with the defroster function. Can anyone confirm that this is indeed its purpose, and more importantly, confirm if my solution in the video will be fine?

 

For experience with a heater actuator system that was going bizerk (car had spent a bit of time underwater) when I got it, the best and only thing I could say is - run it. Meaning, if you can, start up the car - get vac in the system - and see it how it behaves. It's range of motion and what it wants to do. It's hard to predict what some of these things will do in real operation...

I watched the video, and read the description of where you are at in the thread and still,,, I am not exactly sure what is or isn't happening. I'm dense, lol. Jus say'n