Thanks IT1 - that is exactly what I need, a picture how to do it.
I have a engine lift.

I will remove the exhaust, and give it a go..

 

Cant get the exhaust out as is... maybe once I have lifted it but don't think so....

What are your thoughts on access to the output shafts on the diff, supporting the diff on the bottom plate.
This will allow the half shafts to hang down, only problem is accessing the tie plate as suggested... I could lift it for that and lower it again when needed.
The problem is space, I only have this area in front of the jag... other wise it has to be done outside, and being in Auckland NZ... it rains lots.

 

Maybe it would be easier to remove the outer shroud / cage ?
I have rods made up from last time to hold the wish bones in place.

what do you think?

 

Mad idea!
The exhausts have to come out, and really should have been removed before you dropped the cage. I sugest proceding as follows:

1. use your crane to lift the cage high enough.
2. remove the exhausts (they unhook by being withdrawn towards the front of the cage and wriggled out)
3. set up a slope or set axle stands under the front edge of the cage so when you lower it down the cage is tilting rearwards (diff input upwards)
4. unhook crane and attach to nose of diff, lift again and tilt the cage further backwards until it goes overcentre, then lower the crane and the cage is upside down.

 

Hi Duke

The way I do it is to take the Shroud off but leave the bottom plate on because it's far too easy to strip one of the Bolts on the bottom plate

It's up to you but that is the way I would do it

Alex

 

Can someone please explain how I change the seals and bearings?
Do I need a press?
I have a hydraulic press at work, do I need this?

I remember that there is a collapsible sleeve, as the bearing are the same the existing spacer should do the job correct?

Photos of the job is what i need...
Thanks

 

Well bugger me if the exhaust did not come out with the cage up in the air...

Now the cage is upside down...

Whats next?

 

I will start here...!

 

Right one side is good to go.
I will start undoing the bolts.....I forgot how much I love this car.... getting the brake calipers off is such a pleasure lol.

I need to drain and fill the diff, remind me please the best way to fill it?
Any other advice?

Will start the others side today

 

Duke,

With the diff the correct way and perfectly level; you just remove the fill plug, then the drain plug. Drain the oil, refit the drain plug, then fill though the fill plug, until it starts to drip out. Then refit the fill plug.

The cage looks in just fantastic condition. You US guys don't know how lucky you are to have that sort of climate that keeps the cars in such good condition.

Cheers

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, I rebuild the cage a couple of years ago, but did not touch the output seals...
So here we are changing the seals.

I thought I would ask for advice on best approach before I jump in and pull the axle apart.
I can see oil on the axle face, confirming that it was leaking, also the bolts had oil on them but that maybe normal.

Any advice before I start and wreak the seal etc trying to hammer it in.

 

If you google, Jaguar irs output shaft bearings, there are a couple videos. One by Jag mods and one by Don's Cobra show E3. They show the "basic steps" of the procedure but not the correct rolling torque value. Yours appears to be in good shape.
I just noticed that nut is upside down, they must have been rebuilt before.

 

Thanks lt1

Interesting video and comments...
Jag Mods packed the bearing with grease, a comment at the end said NOT necessary. - yes or no to grease?
I like the idea of grease...
Pre load on the bearing... No end float and drag when turning the nut.
Should I measure the pre load on the output shaft before I pull it to bits? Sounds like a good approach.
Need to work out how to measure pre load, I have the same torque screw driver thing...


interesting watch.

 

I am a bit worried about doing this job as I have NO idea about the pre load, anyone done this job ?
I was thinking that I might have to take them to a Jag shop and ask them to assemble them.

Both videos are useless with regards to setting up the pre load.
I have a good press at work etc...

Any help appreciated....

 

I found this from Grant... explains it well.
I can do this..... plan is to get a spanner that fits.. i have a LARGE crescent but a proper sized spanner is best.
But this advice is perfect.

 

Just to add ... here is the post. Just what i was looking for.
Will start this weekend and report back.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...arings-247666/

 

I know you can do this, I did it twice. Checking the preload is easy and at the very end anyways. The "Dons cobra show E3" video shows exactly what you will be doing. Put the bearing in before you install the seal. At the end he spins the shaft and says "perfect" by feel also. It's obvious he's done that a few times and knows the feel. Do you have a manual that states the specs? I know there are two, one for used bearings and one for new. It's really not that bad of a job. I used a socket that fit over the end of the shaft adapted down to my 1/4" beam type torque wrench to rotate it. Clamp the shaft flange to tighten the nut and then the seal flange at an angle so you can rotate the shaft to check it. I ended up using the 24" crescent wrench myself. Good luck.

 

This is the best Video....

 

Update time, the video of Dons Cobra certainly was good, it looks easy.
The fact Dons arms are bigger than both my legs was something I did not notice at first, I was to busy watching how easy this looked.
So armed with my new found confidence I started on the first output shaft.....

Dons example all seems to come apart easy, and go back together easy ..... and Don used a rather large Adjustable spanner...job done.
I have a 450mm adjustable spanner, should have it done in 15min, in time for dinner.

Well - I got the bearing races in ok, but the inner bearings did not slide on the shaft, they needed to be tapped on with a punch, being carful not to slip and hit the bearings.
Put the collasable spacer in, nut on and started to tighten with my 450mm adjustable spanner... nope.
Took it to work and attacked it with a 600mm adjautable spanner and we had progress until the spanner started rounding the nut.
No way I coulod do this myself, we put a 2m pipe on the 600mm spanner and stated tightening, but a few slips and we stopped before we stuffed the nut.

I then went and purchased the 1 7/8 spanner, this is a big boy spanner. its huge.
Cost $78 NZ - I thought that was a good price.

Armed with my new larger spanner, and the help of one of the engineers with big arms we tighten (he) the nut until there was zero play with a DTI.
0.1mm play and you can feel it, then a slight tighten and done.... What I hope is perfect.




I greased the bearings well.
I made a tool for pressing in the seal using a vice, worked well.



Moral of the story, you need the big *** spanner, you need someone with leg like arms... and a DTI was worth using.
But you can feel it right down to zero free play.

One down, one to go... I will rebuild one side of the cage, then strip the other.

Oh and good old Don said a smear of silicon on the meeting face as extra security... thoughts on that?

 

Great job, I know it's a huge accomplishment and I agree with everything you did except the last part. You neglected to check the rolling torque. The 0 clearance is not correct. It's simple to check and set at this point. The manual has torque values although not real clear but important.