Hi all

I Will be rebuilding my rear stub axles tomorrow. The manual says to take out any looseness between the shaft and hub first, then tighten the large nut until the shaft rotates 4 in lb torque. I made a tool to do this with my torque screwdriver but I’m a bit confused on process.

So I tighten the large nut a bit at a time until the torque screw driver clicks over at 4 lbs ? If I haven’t reached the correct nut tightness will the torque screwdriver just not click over ?

thanks for any help from those who’ve done this

JB

 

If you do mean REAR hubs, then I do not understand what you are asking. Take a look at this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-225834/page2/
Particularly post 35 as this decribes how to set up the rear hub bearings. The castellated nut on the hub is done up to a huge torque.

 

Are you sure the procedure and torque specs you are using are correct. It sounds to me that they are more like the differential output shaft bearing set up procedure. Those bearings use a collapsible spacer whereas the rear hub uses spacer washers of predetermined thickness.

 

Good morning all...sorry about confusion...Baxtors correct...when I say "stub axles" I meant the differential output shafts and yes they use the collapsible spacer.

The manual is a little brief and I was confused by their instructions on when I know I have met the 4 in-lb torque requirement. As I read it I would:

1) Hand tighten the large output shaft nut and take out any play
2)Then keep tightening the nut until only 4 in-lbs is required to turn the output shaft.

If anyone knows of a better thread than the manual instructions that would be great !

Thanks for any advice

JB

 

Pretty much just as you describe in 1 and 2. When you get spacer collapse take it slow and steady, don't want to go too far or it's back to the start.
Assume you already know but the turning torque is only valid within the backlash (ie. No load) movement.
Edit...Scrub that last bit, that's the pinion adjustment.

 

Thanks Baxtor

Can I just clarify that how do you know the spacer has collapsed enough initially ? Is this when there is zero play in the stub axle and bearing ?

Also I had to delay rebuild as the bearings I purchased seem to be to small. The bearing races just fell into the stub housings. I measured them compared to the old ones and they were about 1.5 mm smaller in diameter. The vendor may have sent me the wrong ones but I did order them for my VIN number so not sure what happened. Ordered new ones from another vendor.

anyone had this problem and are there a couple different size bearings for a 1993 4.0 with inboard discs ?

thanks

JB

 

Its been YEARS, but from memory.

Output shaft bearings:
L68149 Cone and L68111 Cup. You will 2 or each per side.

As for the feel of the collapse, YOU WILL KNOW.

When first assembled and the nut is in contact the housing, and you are ready for the "heave ho" of turning that nut to begin the crush, that housing is quite floppy,
The START of the crush is the hardest hurdle, once it starts, the continuation is slightly easier, but GREAT CARE is needed, or, as said, too much crush, and you will dismantle, NEW spacer and start again.

As the spacer collapses, that "floppy" diminishes, and SLOW, as said, And I mean SLOWLY turn that nut, feeling the housing as you go, and when you get to that sweet "no play" feel, STOP. You are done, bend the locktab.

I ALWAYS smear the bearings with clean wheel bearing grease, and also the lip of that seal, just an OLD habit that will never die. The Diff oil will get there eventually, but, its just what I do.

The first ones I did, LONG time ago, scared the crap out of me. Now it just turn, feel, turn, feel, done.
I have a LONG wrench that fits that nut, about 30" long, so the feel of the crush is easier than a short wrench and you straining to get movement.

 

Many thanks Grant...I think my new bearings will be good this time based on your P/N’s

I was reading the procedure in my manual and it says the torque required to turn shaft is 4 in-lb if you reuse bearings and 20 in-lb if using new bearings.

I’m using new bearings so should I be looking for 20 in-lb after using your tightening procedure above ?

Tks a bunch

JB

 

HONESTLY.

I have NEVER done that In/Lb thingy, dont know how to do it, or the tool needed to do so.

I have done too many over too many years, and "feel" is how I was taught at Jaguar back in the very old days.

Just like a front wheel bearings, where you go to "zero" play and then "back off a bees appendage". BUT, there is NO backing off here, so SLOWLY tighten and feel the play reduce, then when that :"feel" is zero to you, STOP.

Trying to use a pull measure for that In/Lb would be near useless in MY opinion, as the drag of the seal will give a very false reading. I may be very wrong of course, but of all that I have now done, none have returned or failed.

Concentration as you "crush" that sleeve and concentrate as you feel the sloppy reduce to that zero you are looking for.

Tapered roller bearings, what we have here, are designed to operate at a specific Preload. That is achieved by that "zero feel" I talk of, and when the thing heats up, as in being used, the bearings are loaded up to spec. You set it too tight, they heat up, too much Preload, they fail.Conversely, too much play, and when the heat takes place, still too much play, they fail.

 

Grant...got it now thanks..I’ll set to zero play with my dial indicator per your experience

tks for all the help

JB

 

Anytime.

Always here.

Beers on you when I get to the windy city, BUT, the way things are going I will be too old to travel be the time they open it up.

 

Hi im facing the same difficulty on my ‘75 XJ6, do t suppose you have a pic of how you attached the torque screwdriver or the dial measure? Not sure I trust myself to do it by feel!

 

Hi there…I basically did what Grant said. I did not use the torque screwdriver method in the end. I just tightened the big nut a little bit at a time until there was zero end float using my dial indicator gauge. I used a vice and magnetic based dial indicator to set it up.

 

I did this by the book. Bought a special inch pound torque wrench to do it. It was very surprising the amount of effort required to compress the sleeve.

A cheaters way is to use the old precompressed sleeves instead of the new ones! I did that on my current daily driver with no ill effect.

 

That will work so long as it is not too short to begin with. You need to be certain the spacer is in proper contact by noting the torque required to tighten the nut.

 

I used a small torque wrench, I was able to get a beam type that went from 0-50 inch lbs. You are looking for a predetermined amount of drag from the bearings, that is why they are different for used and new bearings, as the used have already seated and run in together, so they need less preload than a new set that will seat together and lose some preload as they run.

 

Managed to make something which would allow me to test torque using a 24mm socket but cannot find a torque wrench which goes to such a low setting.
so I took a brave pill and tried to do by feel, did not take very much tightening but I can’t feel any play, however also still seeing a lot of the oil seal - pic below does this look right?