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Here's what I did to install Bluetooth in my '94 XJS with the factory stereo for $30 without opening the front console.
No one in the 21st century should be without Bluetooth, and not having it takes away from the enjoyment of the car. I researched new stereos and speakers, and while I might eventually do that, right now I just needed Bluetooth.
I despise commercial radio, my cassette deck isn't working for one of those cheapo 3.5mm adapters, my CD deck isn't working, never mind that I don't even know where I stored all my old CD's, some dating back to the 80's. I want to listen to my custom stations and downloads on Slacker. Oh, and I hate Pandora and Sirius XM too. I'm very finicky.
If you've ever bought one of those FM Modulators, which nowadays have Bluetooth, you know that they suck. Plug it into your cigarette lighter in the cabin, and nothing but static and weak signal.
But a weak signal is just caused by distance.
So, here's what I did:
I mounted it under the antenna (aerial) assembly, using the "Trunk Mounted Relay and Fusebox".
First, added a fuse to the 5amp "Radio telephone ignition feed", using an ATC Add-a-Circuit.
Second, attached a female cigarette socket to the fuse, grounding it to an existing point in the antenna assembly area.
The fuse is switched, so it comes on with the ignition. Choose your frequency, pair it, and it will automatically connect to your phone or MP3 player when you turn on the car.
This particular unit also works with the phone for handsfree, but I just disabled it from the phone.
Since the transmitter is so close to the antenna, it comes in very well.
Good post, thank you! In your investigations, did you ascertain that it's better for the modulator to be nearer the aerial even if that meant the phone was now further away from the modulator? In other words is the quality of aerial signal more important than the distance for bluetooth transmission?
Also, is there much difference in the quality of these BT modulators? i have an old cheap non-BT, headphone socket one with 4 fixed frequencies that I use in one of my cars and wonder if it's worth moving to a BT one to give me hands-free phone in that car?
In other words is the quality of aerial signal more important than the distance for bluetooth transmission?
Indeed. FM is analog that degrades with distance. BT is digital that has checksums to compensate for packet loss.
In this case, BT works great over a much longer distance than the FM Transmitter. In the car, you'll not have any problems on the BT side.
Also, is there much difference in the quality of these BT modulators? i have an old cheap non-BT, headphone socket one with 4 fixed frequencies that I use in one of my cars and wonder if it's worth moving to a BT one to give me hands-free phone in that car?
Well, my solution is not for hands-free, because the controls are on the BT unit, which is now in the boot. And yes, it is hit or miss with the quality. But for $15, it's not a big deal. I'm happy with this particular unit.
I've been pondering how to improve the stereo for some time - didn't really want to remove the original though. And like you the cd changer in the trunk never really worked well. This looks like a great idea. Thanks!
Here's what I did to install Bluetooth in my '94 XJS with the factory stereo for $30 without opening the front console.
No one in the 21st century should be without Bluetooth, and not having it takes away from the enjoyment of the car. I researched new stereos and speakers, and while I might eventually do that, right now I just needed Bluetooth.
I despise commercial radio, my cassette deck isn't working for one of those cheapo 3.5mm adapters, my CD deck isn't working, never mind that I don't even know where I stored all my old CD's, some dating back to the 80's. I want to listen to my custom stations and downloads on Slacker. Oh, and I hate Pandora and Sirius XM too. I'm very finicky.
If you've ever bought one of those FM Modulators, which nowadays have Bluetooth, you know that they suck. Plug it into your cigarette lighter in the cabin, and nothing but static and weak signal.
But a weak signal is just caused by distance.
So, here's what I did:
I mounted it under the antenna (aerial) assembly, using the "Trunk Mounted Relay and Fusebox".
First, added a fuse to the 5amp "Radio telephone ignition feed", using an ATC Add-a-Circuit.
Second, attached a female cigarette socket to the fuse, grounding it to an existing point in the antenna assembly area.
The fuse is switched, so it comes on with the ignition. Choose your frequency, pair it, and it will automatically connect to your phone or MP3 player when you turn on the car.
This particular unit also works with the phone for handsfree, but I just disabled it from the phone.
Since the transmitter is so close to the antenna, it comes in very well.
Ahhh... music. I'm so happy now.
Padre
Hi Padre,
The last of my parts to complete this mod arrived today. I followed your instructions and it works great... with one exception... I can't seem to find any switched fuses in my boot fuse box! Some don't seem to work at all (that makes NO sense, since I have no electrical issues in my car... besides passenger seat, which doesn't respond to the door adjustment switch).
This could be due to the "DROK add a circuit" device; I had a hard time fitting a fuse in the extra slot the first time, and there are plenty of online reviews complaining about poor quality. Then again, I was able to get the device powered up and paired with my phone and stereo, and it was playing fine. It just wasn't connected to a switched circuit, which means I either have to go in the boot and remove the device or risk having my battery drain down.
The last of my parts to complete this mod arrived today. I followed your instructions and it works great... with one exception... I can't seem to find any switched fuses in my boot fuse box! Some don't seem to work at all (that makes NO sense, since I have no electrical issues in my car... besides passenger seat, which doesn't respond to the door adjustment switch).
This could be due to the "DROK add a circuit" device; I had a hard time fitting a fuse in the extra slot the first time, and there are plenty of online reviews complaining about poor quality. Then again, I was able to get the device powered up and paired with my phone and stereo, and it was playing fine. It just wasn't connected to a switched circuit, which means I either have to go in the boot and remove the device or risk having my battery drain down.
Any ideas?
Hmmm. Mine is connected on the "radio telephone ignition feed". If you can find the "radio aerial", i.e radio antenna, that should be switched.
What year model is yours? Mine's a 94, but if yours is older, I can look at my 91 to try to find a fuse. If you have the "Vehicle Care" manual, it lists all the fuses in the back. I just guessed at the ones that might be switched.
Hi Padre, mine is a '96, so I think the wiring is different. I only have the driver's handbook, which doesn't show the wiring to the rear fuse box. I do own a service manual - I'll check that to see if it sheds any light.
The concept is awesome and it was playing Bluetooth from my iPhone music library. I just need to either find a switched fuse or worst case, unplug the "add a fuse" when not in use.
Hi Padre, mine is a '96, so I think the wiring is different. I only have the driver's handbook, which doesn't show the wiring to the rear fuse box. I do own a service manual - I'll check that to see if it sheds any light.
The concept is awesome and it was playing Bluetooth from my iPhone music library. I just need to either find a switched fuse or worst case, unplug the "add a fuse" when not in use.
Well, worst case, you can tap into the power line for the antenna. I'd explore that. It has a relay to lower the antenna after shutdown, so it's gotta be switched.
Well, worst case, you can tap into the power line for the antenna. I'd explore that. It has a relay to lower the antenna after shutdown, so it's gotta be switched.
Padre
Yes, that'll be my target. It's supposed to be fuse #2, 10 amp. I did see a 10 amp but for whatever reason I don't think it powered down. I'll try again.
Either way, your idea is an excellent one - anyone who wants to add Bluetooth to their stock stereo should jump on it. Thanks very much for sharing it with the rest of us.
Well, worst case, you can tap into the power line for the antenna. I'd explore that. It has a relay to lower the antenna after shutdown, so it's gotta be switched.
Padre
Here's a head-scratcher; I was able to ID the antenna fuse. If I pull the fuse, the antenna motor stops. But, when I use the "add a circuit" + 5 amp fuse for the Bluetooth FM transmitter, then turn the key off, the transmitter remains powered up. The antenna motor will cycle until the antenna is down, but the FM transmitter stays powered up.
I thought maybe it would power down after a minute or so, but that is not the case. Any ideas?
Normally the antenna works by swopping the live feed and the ground feed. So all the relay might do is supply the antenna a constant live feed.
That seems to be the case. Not a single fuse in the boot area seems to be switched. Might have to plug the device in when I drive and unplug it when I park.
That seems to be the case. Not a single fuse in the boot area seems to be switched. Might have to plug the device in when I drive and unplug it when I park.
Strange. Next up, you might try simply mounting the fuse to a switched source in the cabin, then run the power wire all the way to the back under the antenna. Not as elegant, but same result.
place the speakers in the boot and I can take them out and with me when I wish... (they claim 50watts/ channel but I do not believe that is RMS (oh 25v supply) so expect 25 watts... input voltage range 8--> 25 volt )
this is a Class D amplifier (based on DC to Dc converters)
I think I will look for a 25 volt supply for home use...
Last edited by Jonathan-W; Aug 22, 2016 at 11:12 AM.
Strange. Next up, you might try simply mounting the fuse to a switched source in the cabin, then run the power wire all the way to the back under the antenna. Not as elegant, but same result.
Padre
Thinking about it, I wonder if there is another problem. See if you can find *any* fuse front or back that is switched and behaves properly with the add-a-fuse. It just doesn't make sense that none in the trunk are switched.
My $30 Bluetooth solution
