XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Need an "off the line" performance improvement

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  #41  
Old 05-15-2018, 12:05 PM
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Anyone here used one of Johns Cars Quarterbreed kits? Seems made for just this.

http://www.johnscars.com/qb/v12qb.html
 
  #42  
Old 05-15-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by J_C_R
Gentlemen,

The tire store folks told me that the tires (tyres) I had them put on were one "size" wider than the tires that came with it, which of course would translate to more rubber contacting the road. They are BF Goodrich Radial T/A's, P235/60R15's, 98S M+S.
Pre Facelift 86 here. Same. Originals on this year were 195/70 r15 iirc. Went with the same Radial T/As. One inch wider contact patch.

Originally Posted by J_C_R
I followed Grant's timing process. Given that it's 86 F in the shade here, the sun is out, and the engine is at operating temperature, getting my face right over the distributor was not a challenge I was up to.

I was able to loosen the nut, and then I turned the adjustment screw slowly clockwise (not sure if this turns the dizzy cw or ccw, will check when things cool off). Anyway, just listening to it at idle it was happier the more I turned it clockwise.
Dizzy rotation is opposite of screw rotation. This change turned your dizzy CCW. This advances the ignition timing as the rotor spins CW.

Originally Posted by J_C_R
I floored it from a stop... there was a noticeable increase in "liveliness" . It still didn't chirp the tires, but it felt like it was trying. Didn't hear any pinging.

So I continued this process until the adjustment screw wouldn't turn clockwise any longer. Stomped on the gas over and over, and no pinging. I did check to see that the locking bolt hadn't tightened, but still couldn't turn any more clockwise.

I serviced the mechanical advance per Palm's recommendation, and replaced the vacuum advance about 5 years ago.

I'm a little concerned why I would be up against a "stop" on the dizzy adjustment. I would think (but am no expert) that by continuing the turn the adjustment I would have peaked at some point, then noticed less engine happiness
...
Thanks!

John
the dizzy can be adjusted by loosening the three mounting screws inside and rotating the housing. It’s possible that your has been previously mis-adjusted. It’s also possible you are missing some centrifugal or vac I’m advance. Hard to know unless you confirm the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is both correctly indicating TDC and that the HB itself is solid. Then read your total timing at 3000 RPM.
 

Last edited by JigJag; 05-15-2018 at 12:20 PM.
  #43  
Old 05-15-2018, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by J_C_R
Vancouver - I replaced the O2 sensors when I first got the car, about 4 years ago. I drive it a lot, but most of that driving is local, so I've not put 5,000 miles on it. I think the sensors are supposed to last much longer than that...but it seems easy enough to test them, so I will.

ronbros - did you buy the Dana in one piece (i.e., housing and all, and it just needed to be bolted on) or did you do (or have) the gears only swapped? I've been looking at justdifferentials.com and the nitro catalog, and removing and installing gears seems like quite a process.

Thanks!

John
.

my 1978 XJS came standard factory with 3.07 ratio powerlok(not the 2.88) , so my diff is stock original, when i had it apart i took the ring and pinion gears to a local diff. shop, guy looked at them and went in back supply room ,came back with a set of gears , made some measurements, and said there you go ,3.73 ratio fits a JEEP truck,i fit them into the casing with new bearings &seals. i use a standard HD GM yoke on pinion input shaft,Aluminum driveshaft, less rotating weight!
 
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  #44  
Old 05-15-2018, 02:08 PM
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I know it probably is no solution for you, but boy, was it an improvement when I installed the manual gearbox. It converted a lazy luxury car into a sports car. Completely different driving experience.
 
  #45  
Old 05-15-2018, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by J_C_R
ronbros - did you buy the Dana in one piece (i.e., housing and all, and it just needed to be bolted on) or did you do (or have) the gears only swapped? I've been looking at justdifferentials.com and the nitro catalog, and removing and installing gears seems like quite a process.

It's easier/cheaper to buy a 3.54 diff out of a later XJS than to regear a 2.88. The reason is the carriers are different between a 2.88 and 3.07 and up due to the crown gear thickness, so you need the carrier as well as the gears from a 3.54.



Rebuilding a diff isn't that bad, it requires patience, willingness to read the manual and follow the directions and specifications exactly plus some special tools. In terms of clearances, this is a place where "good enough" really isn't good enough. It needs to be within spec.



If you're not comfortable measuring accurately to thousandths of inch, don't tackle this job. There was one measurement that took me about 6 hours to make until I was confident that I had it correct, and I could repeatably get the same number.
 
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  #46  
Old 05-15-2018, 05:42 PM
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There are 3 things you can do to fit 3.54 on a 2.88 hemisphere.

1 install the crown wheel on a spacer. This has been done here on 2 taga XJS race cars and works.

2 Jeep have thick crown wheels available for just this reason.

3 source an XJ40 LSD and swap the internals, this is what I did.
 
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  #47  
Old 05-16-2018, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by J_C_R

I followed Grant's timing process. Given that it's 86 F in the shade here, the sun is out, and the engine is at operating temperature, getting my face right over the distributor was not a challenge I was up to.

I was able to loosen the nut, and then I turned the adjustment screw slowly clockwise (not sure if this turns the dizzy cw or ccw, will check when things cool off). Anyway, just listening to it at idle it was happier the more I turned it clockwise.

I floored it from a stop... there was a noticeable increase in "liveliness" . It still didn't chirp the tires, but it felt like it was trying. Didn't hear any pinging.

So I continued this process until the adjustment screw wouldn't turn clockwise any longer. Stomped on the gas over and over, and no pinging. I did check to see that the locking bolt hadn't tightened, but still couldn't turn any more clockwise.

I serviced the mechanical advance per Palm's recommendation, and replaced the vacuum advance about 5 years ago.

I'm a little concerned why I would be up against a "stop" on the dizzy adjustment. I would think (but am no expert) that by continuing the turn the adjustment I would have peaked at some point, then noticed less engine happiness.

If I go with a new torque converter, I see a jump from 2400 RPM to 3000 RPM. Is the 3000 too much?

Thanks!

John
John,

Hitting a stop with that adjuister is normal.

The screw is rotating a peg in a groove adjuster.

The distributor rotates Anti Clockwise looking down at the top. Rotating that adjuster so the casing moves Clockwise will advance the timing.

You have simply run out of adjustment, and now the base section needs to be "released" to manually move it Clockwise a few degrees, so that the adjuster CAN be turned the other way to match that base movement, then you can run the engine and turn that peg again to get a few more degrees out of it.

Once done, you may need to "trim" the ECU fuel POT a small amount.

These might help some more.

Adjusting the ECU fuel pot.pdf

Refitting the V12 distributor.pdf
 
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  #48  
Old 05-18-2018, 09:13 AM
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Thanks for that Grant.

Today and tomorrow I'm going through the engine set-up procedure, as well as pulling the dizzy cap to see in the advanced is jammed again, and following your suggestions also.

Hoping for good results...

John
 
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  #49  
Old 05-19-2018, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Absolutely, Steve. If I floor it my car will take off like a scalded cat, tyres scrabbling for grip. Takeoff from a standstill at full chat is fantastic. Maybe the lower BHP of the USA cars, and all their catalytic stuff tones them down a bit?
Greg, on that "tyres scrabbling for grip" car, would you happen to have a 0 to 60 acceleration time? I'm curious, thank you.

Cheers,
 
  #50  
Old 05-19-2018, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcedair1
Greg, on that "tyres scrabbling for grip" car, would you happen to have a 0 to 60 acceleration time? I'm curious, thank you.

Cheers,
My car with 3.58 diff and 4L60e is in the mid 6's 0-100km/h (62mph)
 
  #51  
Old 05-20-2018, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcedair1
Greg, on that "tyres scrabbling for grip" car, would you happen to have a 0 to 60 acceleration time? I'm curious, thank you.
Hard to be 100% accurate without timing wheels etc, but definitely under 7 secs using the speedo, the last time we tried it, stick in position 1.
 
  #52  
Old 05-20-2018, 04:01 PM
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Forgot to mention my 0-100 was done with a g-tech, not hand timed. Roads around my place are small country lanes so it was a little difficult to get a constant number but 6.6sec was the worst 6.3 the best.
 
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