Hello all, it's rather interesting to be in this board rather than the XJ6 series 1,2,3 board or the XJ40 board, but I recently came across a deal I couldn't pass up, a 1982 Jaguar XJS, rust free and complete for 400 dollars, I saved it from being the donor for a coffee table. However, the car was last registered in 1999 according to an inspection sticker on the windshield, and I believe that to be correct. After draining the varnish from the tank, and clearing the fuel system of the filth by way of running fresh gas through the system by priming, I replaced the fuel filter and tried my luck to see if the car would fire, I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only did it fire, it settled into a rather respectable idle. However there are a few pressing issues I need to deal with, the brake pedal is incredibly low, I'm going to inspect for broken lines, and if there's no such trouble I'll bleed it out and see what I get. The water pump bearings are also quite obviously shot, so I have a rebuild kit for it on the way. Now for the preliminary advice, I have a bog on application of throttle, any advice on what it could be? If I get it past the initial slump the car will proceed fine for as much as I've run it into and out of the garage to work on it, and also, would there be any other absolute "need to do's" on a car that has presumably not seen the road in 21 years before I put it into service?

Thanks
Evan.

 

The could be list might get a little long. Or not.

I'd begin by giving the car a really good run.....which may have to wait until you're sure it's roadworthy. I have a daily driver V12 and do lots of city driving. When a flat spot develops.....it always does, eventually.....a good highway run always solves the problem. Gotta give 'er the boot!

Next I turn to cleaning the throttle bodies, setting them to the proper .002" throttle blade gap, and synchronizing the linkages. You'll probably need new throttle bushings, too.

After that I'd check the TPS to make sure it doesn't have a dead spot


Replace all the engine bay fuel hoses. This very important.

Make sure the cooling system is 100%. Most here will recommend "do it all, do it right, do it once" approach to cooling system work....and other tasks as well, actually.

Everything mentioned so far is just scratching the surface of what you'll need to know and do. But, it'll be fun and very rewarding. A fully sorted XJS will repay your efforts in more than equal measure

Tons already written on these subjects.

I suggest a new thread for each if you have questions and need more details

Cheers
DD

 

Check the advance weight assembly in the distributor to determine if it moves freely. These have a habit of seizing up and holding the ignition in the advanced state. Also check out Kirby's free book. Good luck with your car.

 

Don't start the car again until you've replaced those fuel hoses. Unless of course you like car shaped barbecues...

 

Well found.

I will ASSUME it is a HE version, as some markets still had the PreHE in 1982.

HE has the fuel filter in the boot, PreHE has the fuel filter mounted on the front of the A Bank Inlet manifold.

Identifying the engine will always make diagnostic answers much more accurate.

Thats the quicky version, there be more things different.

 

My apologies Grant, it is indeed the HE Version of the XJS.

 

Everything Grant and Doug said is the Gospel here.



I drive my v12 xjs daily and even city traffic causes issue..nothing solves this faster than a good hard highway run, the engine is built to rev hard which goes against all modern common sense but my god it works.

slop in the throttle assembly can translate into dead spots it's important to tighten up all that or the primitive computer sees too much air not enough fuel etc. Causing issues. On my car (a later model) dead o2 sensors and sloppy throttle rods caused the car to nearly stall on acceleration so minor items can appear worse than they are.

Head down to walmart and grab a few bottles of techron for the fuel, your cooling system will need a professional flush please dont disregard this. Expect all rubber hoses fuel coolant and brake to be suspect and in need of replacement at this age.

most of this you can do yourself not hard.

 

As far as the brake pedal goes, you have to determine if the problem is with a caliper, hose, or master. Put a line clamp on each hose (yes I know the car is almost 40 years old and you may just want to replace the hoses, but for the test it will be ok), and try the pedal. It should be rock hard., If not, the master is bad. If the pedal is hard, remove the clamps one at a time and see what happens. The pedal should drop a little, but not too much. If there is a big drop, you know the caliper or hose is bad.

 

Good technique but, just to toss out another point of view......

Personally, on a car that's been off-road for 21 years, I would just flat-out assume that the brake system needs full refurbishing and get it over-and-done with.

It happens that I spent a lot of time recommissioning cars that have come out of long term hibernation and it's a rare case where selective or partial repairs have been effective in restoring good operation. And, even then, there's that "nagging doubt" thing.

Just my 2-cents

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Evan ....some pictures would be good

regards

Darren

 

Thanks for the advice everyone, once I get back to the car there will be plenty of pictures posted!

 

Take a look at the top of this section.

I finally finished the "worksheet" and Graham has Stickied it for all to read.

It is 24? pages and I reckon you will quickly see what needs doing before ANY driving is even a twinkle in the eye.

Let the fun begin.

Good luck.