So I've started poking around in my car, getting familiar with things. Boy there are a lot of things so far. I do have a fuel odor in the trunk, so I thought I would take a look. So far everything I've looked at seems to be in good condition except for age. I have ordered a service manual, but until that gets here identifying items is a challenge. Here are a couple of pictures of the tank, and lines.
Numbered 1-5, what are they?

1. is this a return line?
2. looks to be a filter?
3. Tank fuel level sending unit?
4. ?
5. ?

The tank itself looks very clean on the outside anyway. I'd like to change out all these lines, and all rubber ones that are underneath and in the engine compartment. I saw some Injector kits on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Inject...UAAOSw9Bha-FYQ

Is something like this a good kit? I'm not sure why it has clamps, from what I've read from Grant's pdf's and Kirby's book and looking at my engine they are not used in this area. The 4 lines in the engine bay that have metal fittings on the ends, can I just have mine rebuilt? I really need a parts book as well with exploded drawings and part numbers.

 

1- I think so, can't remember
2- Yes
3- Yes
4- Fuel pump
5- Access to the sump tank


Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug, I think #1 is the return line. I was looking at it some more afterwards. Fixed the passenger power window today and a wheel off to look at the front suspension. It could use some freshening up but all in due time.
Chap.

 

I sent my injectors to this guy: https://injector-rehab.com/shop/
They came back with all the seals replaced and before/after charts of injector performance. I’m pretty sure new ferrules were included, but I might have added them to my order, I can’t remember. All I had to do was cut new fuel line to length and assemble them back onto the rail. Total cost was a bit higher than the kit you linked, but I know my injectors are all working. You’re right, hose clamps aren’t appropriate for these hoses.

 

A bit more detail about the fuel system in the boot (trunk):
Fuel drops by gravity into the sump tank (5 in your photo) - this tank is to ensure the injection pump never gets fuel starved in long corners and low fuel levels in the main tank.
Fuel exits that sump tank through the gold-coloured pipe (5) and goes to the pump (4). The pipe (5) is held in the tank (5) by a locking ring with a rubber seal, inside that tank on the end of the gold pipe is a sock filter that pre-filters the fuel before it goes to the pump. This has to be changed evbery so often as it does get blocked/semi blocked.
From the pump high pressure fuel goes to the filter (2) and from there back round/under the pump and sump tank to a fitting in the RHS front corner of the boot and then along under the car to the engine RHS. The filter (2) also has to be changed every so often.
1 is indeed the fuel return.
Importantly, UNDER the sump tank, accessed from under the car, is a fuel drain spigot. You will find a rubber grommet under the car in the boot floor, prise this out and you will see the spigot, which has an 11/16ths sized nut to open the spigot. This enables you to drain both tanbks prior to working on the system in the boot.

Fuel smells in the boot are common, your pipes etc look in great shape, which is a good start. Common causes are perished locking ring seals on the fuel sender and the sump tank, hose clips that need tightening, filler spout rubber hose perished, drain hole from filler cap cavity blocked. Also the actual hoses can allow fuel vapour through, just from old age.
In some cases the floor of the actual fuel tank can perforate with minute pinholes, though in your case this seems unlikely as the tank loks great. Fuel smells can be eliminated, with patient work going through this list!

Lastly, thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to post such a clear and well illustrated question! Such a nice thoughtful touch, i get driven mad by the "my engine will not work what is wrong" type of enquiry!

 

Thanks Greg! There is still a 1/2 tank in the car, so I will have to drive a bit to get that down some more before really getting down to business and draining the tanks. I probably should replace some of the tubing. I am curious as to the removal of the sender and sump how that locking ring works.I am pleasantly surprised by the condition of things overall with this car so far. She runs well, but is at a point where she will need some attention. I have drips on the floor from the engine and a couple from the differential as well.

Pictures truly are worth a thousand words. By this time next year I expect I will be much more familiar with all the systems in this car!

Chap

 

Thanks for that link. I may do that as well.

 

Chap
If you look closely at the locking rings, you will see three little square tabs sticking up, equidistant round the ring. With a brass drift and a hammer carefully tap these anti-clockwise and the ring will turn, releasing its pressure as the raised portion rotates out of the bits on the actual tank rim they are locked into. It works a bit like an radiator cap. Then turn the ring until the raised bits are by the semicircular cutouts on the tank rim and out it all comes.

 

I wish I had read Greg’s post more carefully! I saw the part about the sock filter getting clogged and decided to clean it out. But neglected to first empty the main tank!

I had assumed that the pump sucked the fuel out of the sump, not realizing that the gravity feed from the main tank would result in a geyser of fuel splashing all over the boot as soon as I removed the hose from the sump barb. Another lesson hard learned!