About to order oil pressure sender and switch from Rockauto.

Will URO pressure sender be OK?
Heard that any switch will be fine and Rockauto has heaps under XJS, so I will chose one that looks the same.

Plan is to do the 4 remaining plugs under the throttle bracket that I did not do.. now have a crows foot spanner so good to go.
The switch is leaking, not sure about the sender... but will replace it anyway.

Switch and sender are reasonably priced... never been on Rockauto before - thanks XJS350

 

OK no response ...so the URO is good to go?
Next question, distributor cap off, very dry in there but still snapped back, but I only have semi synthetic oil, all posts say 100% ... do I need to buy 1L for a few drops? that will last me 500yrs. LOL
Oh and the vacuum thing... the hoses go to many places, throttle bracket out tomorrow so I will test that.

 

OK:

Generic Idiot Light switch is fine. Mine was from an early Toyota, 1/8BSP, with spade connector.

Gauge sender is a Smiths and specific to the Jag system, as in reverse ohms. Many generic that are meant to "exact fit" have the ohms as a standard sender, and do not work.

Use whatever oil you have on hand. I use ATF, and always have.

Vac hoses, HAHAHA. I run a single hose from the vac capsule to the engine side port on the underside of the RH throttle body.

 

100% agree.

 

Thanks guys, just what I needed.

So I need a OEM oil sender.
Simple switch for oil switch.. Ok.
ATF - yes perfect have that.

Questions....
The rotor has some very light pitting / arcing - can I lightly sand this off with some fine sand paper?

I will work out where the vacuum lines go and see if they can be removed, the air pump system is long gone, the line splits off in one direction.

The rotor mount / shaft is a little rusty, can I put rub some oil around it?

 

DO NOT, repeat DO NOT clean the tip of the rotor or the related contacts inside the cap. These 2 things pass each other with a precise "air gap", and if that gap is increased too much, the issues with the rest of the ignition system is what keeps this section of the Forum flowing.

Vac lines are simple when you slow down and look at where they go and what they are meant to do, and 99% are not doing much these days. Hence the simple 1 line vac advance system we can use when emission testing is no longer needed.

 

Thanks Grant - I am pleased I asked THAT question.
So I am removing the throttle tower...that is fun..NOT!
I gave up and tried again using the crows foot on the bolt and got it undone.

I like the idea of one vacuum hose.
Mine goes from the manifold, to a tee..

One end to the distributor cap the other goes through a couple of weird looking filter things under the manifold then to these two switch looking things and then to the manifold end.

Any ideas what to do here?

 

Also searching C46272 oil pressure sender.
Seems to be a lot aftermarket version being sold by Jag shops such as Jagdam, Jagbits etc
Are these OK? Or best to get OEM?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Jagu...-/201608079917

https://www.jagbits.com/product/C46272-X.html

 

Well that is the end of that job.... throttle tower is not coming out to change the last 4 plugs....
Bolt is round...........

So i will not be changing the oil sender and switch.
My guess is this is manifolds out to get to the bolt, looks like it to me.

Then I will do the hole job....
Cam cover gaskets
Oil Senders / switch
4 x plugs
some plating and we are good to go!

Here is not what you want to see, crows foot rounded the bolt sides, then I had a go with a large screwdriver to see if i could shock it to turn.
Well the answer to that was NO... so boo hoo.

At least I checked the cap and oiled the rotor shaft, it was needed.

 

BUGGA.

I use JagDaim, no issues ever.

I have NEVER removed that pedestal to do those plugs, maybe its the angle of the dangle across the ditch. 3/8 plug much socket, uni joint, and go for it.

Early days, the balance pipe came off, then I removed that sucker totally, and access was better.

I always do the "A" bank plugs leaning over the "B" bank fender, and then swap sides. The only mongrel plugs were the 2 #1, until I changed to the Sanden compact compressor.

The vac lines, SIMPLE, drink beer. I will think on it, and do a mud map of what I did to incorporate that Blue/White valve and the dump valve. It was YEARS ago.

 

Here ya go. It was in the laptop all the time.

 

Thanks Grant - I'll update once i have changed those plugs!

What are these?
The dump valve ....... that must be under the manifold?

 

Thanks Grant, all plugs changed!!! LOL
There was one which was a pain in the ***... others went well.
6A and 6B some gorilla must have tightened them.. I thought my arm would snap, seriously scary.
But bang and they came undone, the other two were not tight, or should I say nipped up as they should be.

Some antisez on each plug, nip just to tighten and good to go.
One plug looked like that cylinder is not running like the others.. any comments?
Everything back together, and purring like a good *****,,LOL .. as instructed beer was administered.
Neil Young - Crazy Horse, beer and like we do in the bottom of the world, relax and good to go.
So many thanks. Vacuum hoses for another day when I can leave home.

 

Pollution junk, removed from mine the 1st week of ownership. Left those units screwed in to keep the coolant where it belongs, properly sorted with blanking plugs much later on.

 

Those plugs are like that from age, lack of use, driven too kindly, wrong fuel, dirty fuel, and so on.

All that vac crap does no good these days, as most of it is inoperative anyway, and NLA from suppliers.

The Blue/White is usually near the 5A Inlet tract, the dump valve is generally nearby, or attached to the end plate of the A bank Inlet manifold, usually the rear.

The dump valve is a "dirty White/Black capsule, 2" maybe diam, flying saucer shaped, after 6 beers, and 2 vac hoses attached. It may even be missing, some of the ones I played with were AWOL.