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Thanks Greg. I know you're right, and I won't. I can bee a bit of a NUTT job when it comes to throwing stuff in the bin. Ya should have seen me agonizing over throwing away that damn yellow fan just now. Black fan is in, comparatively easy, took about 30 40 min...
First, I'll tell on myself. My dumb *** never went and properly checked the torque on the last six bolts on the cam covers towards the LH fire wall... I could have turned them out by hand!!! No BS. Sooo loose. That's the reason for the leak, I'M SURE! Don't make fun,,, but I am just learning that gaskets as seals shrink of flatten over time and just need to be pinched down a bit. I am a car dude,,, who's only 3 years old...
It's all good and needed work so no matter, I'm glad I'm doing it. Needed work.
My sandblaster guy fell threw today!!!! Stopped me in my tracks. Was thinking I might do it by hand but once I had the covers off I realized that wouldn't be best. Hopefully tomorrow. Was prepared to make a little oven with cardboard, foil and a heat gun to cure them after painting. If I can't get them blasted tomorrow, I'll have to pack it in for a week!
Had I been able to get them blasted, honestly, this ain't a bad job AT ALL. Not at all.
I'm a little worried about my shielded wire after all this JOSTLING. We'll see. Thanks to Warren, I bought 20ft of new skinny shielded wire 2yrs ago. Still sitting on the shelf. Just don't know how to run and install it.
Last edited by JayJagJay; Jun 19, 2020 at 05:59 PM.
Good work - keep the updates coming.
Was this job as scary as it sounds?
Have you got a list of parts needed?
I'm following what your doing and are going to accumulate parts.
Very impressive that you do this work in the street, people must come up and talk to you all the time, I would not be able to help myself if i saw someone rebuilding a jag in the street!
Good work - keep the updates coming.
Was this job as scary as it sounds?
Have you got a list of parts needed?
I'm following what your doing and are going to accumulate parts.
Very impressive that you do this work in the street, people must come up and talk to you all the time, I would not be able to help myself if i saw someone rebuilding a jag in the street!
Hello Duke, thank you...
Lol... People used to come up and start a full blown conversation... Sometimes I will chat. Other times they get that LOOK like,,, do you really think this is BEST time to start talking about #$$$+-&#,,,, or about ^¢€€¥&#$$&$+...? Many people in my neighborhood now know,,, the LOOK, lol. I mean, sometimes I'll be in up to my elbows, lol
I promise you it's not a hard job at all. Seems like it could or should be but taking it slow helps, planning (to the best of your ability) in your head before you do anything helps. Having the stuff in advance (specially if working in the doggone street) is good. If you plan on swapping the bolts take one and set that up first. I know that now.
RTV, the half moons, new bolts, a sand blaster ready and maybe even a powder coater lined up. Rags! Some of those cheap chip brushes with some mineral spirits. Water. More rags. Hmm, I would remove the two bolts that hold the manifold heat shields on. So easy to get to once everything is out of the way. Makes it so you can see what MAY have fallen onto the manifolds before starting after the job - errant rag, paper towel, a bunch o oil... Don't want God knows what to catch fire back under the covers once you start up after the work. Seemed to make sense to me. It's a GREAT time to replace the rear heater hoses. Expansion Valve??? Clean and paint things. So so so much more room.
I left the plugs in and the cam covers ON for most and much of the cleaning. I jacked the front of the car up to allow waste to run off (I'm still worried about the potential problems that may cause - I F'd up the lube on the clutch shaft on my 928 for instance letting soapy water run down the space between the engine and the trans.) I have a new (for different reasons) CPS on hand.
It's really a good time to get at a lot of things cosmetic and essential... It's all right there in a beautiful way.
I would give a step by step (the best I could) but it's been done before. I would say just do it and be ready to get on the forum and ask for guidance if stuck. The intake manifold literally just comes right off after everything is disconnected and 24 13mm bolts removed. The AAV, loosen the vertical hose clamp and pull the hose off straight up. There's no lip on the AAV so it pops right oft. My rubber elbow there was new so I didn't worry about it disintegrating.
Heed the warnings about THINGS dropping in holes!!!!
UPDATE....
Sandblaster won't do the covers til tomorrow and is charging more than I think he should. That burns me. Now that the brakes have been TOTALLY applied I am thinking (uh-oh) that I will take it slow here and do some other things. Like the expansion valve... It's RIGHT there. Any secrets, hints, suggestions??? I know that it is a very dangerous thing to start twisting on but I have access like never before. Heat??? Literally just HAPPENED across this today. Bought a year ago. Lost in the sauce of my "PARTS ROOM"... I need to install this WHILE I have this amazing access..
Last edited by JayJagJay; Jun 21, 2020 at 08:29 PM.
Is the aircon degassed? If not, and it is working, leave the valve alone.
If you must change it, it is ESSENTIAL that the body of the valve is held without moving against the undoing torque of the nuts it screws into. Or you will just twist off the evaporator tubes.
When doing it up, NEW special aircon O rings (they might be teflon but are usually green over here) and NOT stupid tight, just up nicely and another bit of turn.
Based on Greg's comments I assume you can remove the intake manifolds without degassing the aircon?
Are you doing the gasket at the bottom of the V under the distributor?
What about sealing around the head, from memory Greg or Grant have done this job by sealing around the head to the block with RTV.. ?
Based on Greg's comments I assume you can remove the intake manifolds without degassing the aircon?
Are you doing the gasket at the bottom of the V under the distributor?
You can, but if the aircon is gassed and you have a fuel cooler it is more tricky.
I would not advise JJJ to touch the dizzy at all.
You can, but if the aircon is gassed and you have a fuel cooler it is more tricky.
I would not advise JJJ to touch the dizzy at all.
Yeah, No... I'm not touching that top plate or the distributor. Ehhh-Eh! The seams around the tappet block are dry, unless there is something going on under the oil around the last 6 bolts on the LH rear side of the cam covers. That, and the D seals, which were dry and misshapen, I think are the source of my leaks. Both D seals looked bad.
Although I am FRUSTRATED waiting on the blasting and home painting job (unless I can find a SUPER cheap powder coater here) I am pleased with what has happened so far.
The system is depressurized. I had the AC working briefly. It was COLD when it was cold. A small misty waterfall of cold air could be seen when running. But it kept depressurizing. x2. Replaced what orings I could, rebuilt the compressor (which I think takes a special skill) still - leak. I think, if I can, I still would like to replace the expansion valve while I can. It proved IMPOSSIBLE with everything in the way.
Forward, lol. If you can call it that...
At work today,,, so at least I can relax!!! Hahaha
I would look at the 2 SMALL hoses at the oil filter housing, where there is a "walking stick" shaped pipe, with these 2 small hoses at each end. They LEAK, they are OLD, and no one ever replaces them until they leak. PITA to do in the chassis, and if its LHD, oh dear. Oil filter OFF, reach up from under and you will "feel" them, then simply work away.
The pipe is 6mm, so 6mm oil hose, 4 NEW clamps, all done. 24 beers for this one.
#19 in this Parts drawing.
What kind of hose did you use to replace 19 and 20? Looks like fuel hose, but that's not designed for high temps.
Mine were so hard that I could spin them with my fingers with the clamps on place. I have the steering rack out anyway, so a good time to do it.
What kind of hose did you use to replace 19 and 20? Looks like fuel hose, but that's not designed for high temps.
Mine were so hard that I could spin them with my fingers with the clamps on place. I have the steering rack out anyway, so a good time to do it.
I had a good look at mine (they seemed fine)and was wondering why instead of fiddling with the metal walking stick section, one couldn't just go ALL hose...? Seems like it would be easier. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason, lol
Heat is a question for sure. All this runs right near the downpipes, and CATS if you have them. At the same time seems like any old hose, where heat ratings are looked at of course, would do the job. I think in the original post, Grant or Greg gave some figures for hose diameter...
It SHOULD have been all metal with flared fittings at each end. There's no reason for rubber at all that I can see. The parts can't move relative to each other that I can see.
I used what we had at work for Turbo drain hose, but of 1/4" ID. We called it "the Red hose", and no one ever asked what we meant by that. Had it on the roll in all sized up to 1".
I would be suspect on fuel hose, unles you used the EFI spec stuff.
Why the steel and hose, REALLY, you dont know that answer, shame on you.
Jaguar built in rust prevention, very clever people those Jaguar engineers, and this is one of them, THINK about it.
ALSO
The V12 was 1st born in 1954, what did they have in 1954???, not much, so they made do. Then realised it worked, so why reinvent it.
Last edited by Grant Francis; Jun 23, 2020 at 07:16 AM.
LOL! I think my XJS is already thoroughly rustproofed given the amount of oil I've had to clean off the bottom (and top for that matter).
Do you have a brand name and type on that hose? 1/4" oil return hose is very small. If all else fails I've got some 1/4" EFI barrier hose coming.
So, there you are, the rust proofing worked as designed, HAHA.
NO idea, it was just oil hose.
1/4" is FINE, it is simply a drain off from the relief valve.
The MAIN drain back, in case the oil filter goes AWOL, is the housing at the bottom, with the spring loaded valve inside, about a 1" from memory. Those o/rings are also part of the rust proofing design, but rarely get called on to act.
1/4" oil hose would be readily available in any market, and if you slip into any Auto Parts mob, or Speed Shop, they will have it on the roll as we did.
So, there you are, the rust proofing worked as designed, HAHA.
NO idea, it was just oil hose.
1/4" is FINE, it is simply a drain off from the relief valve.
The MAIN drain back, in case the oil filter goes AWOL, is the housing at the bottom, with the spring loaded valve inside, about a 1" from memory. Those o/rings are also part of the rust proofing design, but rarely get called on to act.
1/4" oil hose would be readily available in any market, and if you slip into any Auto Parts mob, or Speed Shop, they will have it on the roll as we did.
Good Morning Y'all...
Is it possible to ONLY use hose and to skip/eliminate the metal tubing? Might make the swap easier.
The only issue I see is the hose MAY have too sharp a bend, and thus strain and perish sooner than a steel with 2 short hose ends. It is a tight bend if you look closely.
IF that single, none formed, hose lets go, you could pump a serious amount of oil out in a hurry.
I did look at that when I had the engine out of the Red HE, and decided against it. I just was not happy with the bend tension of the hose I was using.
Then I decided to stop reinventing everything I looked at. That is just plain silly. OK some sensible improvements,. like RTV in lieu of gasket, Viton o/rings replacing old school spec, etc, sat well.
Just brought it back to spec, with more modern products where I needed, and DROVE the damn thing. There was a coast road waiting to be traversed.
The only issue I see is the hose MAY have too sharp a bend, and thus strain and perish sooner than a steel with 2 short hose ends. It is a tight bend if you look closely.
IF that single, none formed, hose lets go, you could pump a serious amount of oil out in a hurry.
I did look at that when I had the engine out of the Red HE, and decided against it. I just was not happy with the bend tension of the hose I was using.
Then I decided to stop reinventing everything I looked at. That is just plain silly. OK some sensible improvements,. like RTV in lieu of gasket, Viton o/rings replacing old school spec, etc, sat well.
Just brought it back to spec, with more modern products where I needed, and DROVE the damn thing. There was a coast road waiting to be traversed.
Right, yup, right, gotcha...
Seriously, honestly, I was concerned about the bend too, and whether or not, over time the hose would just get sick of the tension and KINK off. OE style it is then...
So finally go things back from the sand blaster. The dude is a punk *** making me wait like that, and the job not being completely finished (pic)... I finished by hand and with a DA sander.
Things when well. I was able to swap out the expansion valve and replace all Orings. I like the way that it all went back together. Can't wait to have someone fit me up with some right connections to the AC appliance so I can see what I got.
Did some painting, several coats of high heat, and BAM!!!
Set up my sidewalk oven, baking the two pieces and the cap at an average 250 as high as 290degrees for about an hour and a half... After that the paint was dry and hard. Used a soft brayer to pick up some paint sprayed in excess on a plastic piece of board, rolled the brayer in it and coated the ridges on the tops of the covers. Bam BAM...
Was worried at first about rubbing off the RTV, maybe gouging or scratching them,,, but the paint dried very tough.
I know this, I AM A MESSSSSSY RTV'r. That's stuff gets everywhere!
Not so bad at all...
