So. I'm back at this. Sealed up oil pan the other day which reduced drips considerably and just read thru Grants write up on oil leaks again, this time focused on the cam cover weep points & and there ARE especially on the rear of the B bank cover... And, that and the piping under and behind the stand.

Quick question... Do I have to (must I) remove intakes to remove the cam covers? I would like to do them both, clean and paint with new decals. Are non aluminum D seals ok?

To the untrained eye it LOOKS (which has caused me tons of grief) like they might be able to be removed without removing the intakes..? Keep in mind that I plan on sealing with RTV...

Or, should the intakes come off to get new gaskets there, as well?

BTW. I'll be driving her another 200miles this weekend but still,,, got a ways to go and still lots of stuff in process.

 

Inlets OFF.

 

Ok. Thanks

 

Jason,

Not sure if we touched on this.

Before ripping the covers off, remove the rubber elbow thing on the snout at the front of the B bank head, remove the capsule filter inside, throw it away, refit the elbow.

Those filters clog up, and are not really cleanable, so I ditch them, as do many others.

This allows the Vac breather system to actually breath the engine, and just MAYBE reduce/stop those oil leaks.

If we have touched on it and you have done that deed, forget this post, HA.

Worth a try, for 5 minutes labour and NO cost.

 

Hi Grant. I did toss it. Felt good, lol

​​Testing you all's patience...
i need leads for the longer banjos at the back end of the tappet block and a bit of advice on the D half moons. First, where can I get them (I don't wanna spend on something that was poorly designed and will give a crappy fit)... I've been reading that "Ron" no longer supplies these. Second, can I get away with rubber or should I go with the aluminum seal? Also, I've read a poured JBWeld into the cresent and then sand...? No really so enthusiastic about that,,, unless it works.

Is there success with smearing the lower tappet block with the epoxy - in the long run,,, or should I just leave that alone for now?

I'm REALLY looking forward to this top end refresh and not a moment too soon. I just got my Jensen AC unit and shorter belt to run it. The top end refresh should come first...

I refreshed the top end of the Porsche and there,,, made a HUGE difference. Anyways

Needing a source on these 4 parts.
Anyone?

 

Unless those banjo's are leaking, and proved to be leaking, leave them alone. I have only ever had leaks from them when they have been fiddled with. YES the OE banjos bolts are too short, and the longer ones are best if you really need to go in there. Access is very tight. I needed on for the PreHE, waaaay back before computers etc, so I made one. No other way on a Sunday with the car needed on Monday. Luckily it was the A bank bolt, but I still had to raise the rear at the trans mount, to tilt the engine just enough to get my hand in there.

I have never used the alloy "D" replacements. I use the OE, liberally coated with Hi-Temp RTV, and they have lasted 20 years so far, and no leaks.

I would leave the tappet block for now. Leaks here are rare, and 99% are from elsewhere.

 

I'm ashamed to say that I have been COMPLETELY missing the seeping and leaking on the cam covers. Especially the LH rear. It's bad. I suspect the D's are leaking, especially on the LH rear. It's HARD to know exactly WHERE the problem is.

I will go with rubber on the D's. Sounds good to me. I'll order them now.

I did have a leak on the LH banjo and removed it to find the PO had used a piece of plastic (like a piece of a bottle) to make a copper washer replacement. Placed some thin copper washers and today (at least the bolt and tubing) looks clean and dry. When I have the intake and cam covers off I will have a better look at the RH banjo and decide what to do. I'll prolly just (carefully) replace the copper washers and call it done.

Happy to leave the tappet blocks alone altogether. They scare me.

I'll do the copper on the tubing stand connection for the dummy light and call that done, and the copper washers at the lower filter area banjo.

And intake gaskets.

This is good! And needed!
Thanks much!

 

JJJ
What does this mean?:
"I'll do the copper on the tubing stand connection for the dummy light and call that done, and the copper washers at the lower filter area banjo."

As to the A bank (US passenger side) banjo fitting for the cam oil feed, I really would not touch it unless the leak is catastrophic. On my car, at least, that bolt cannot be withdrawn engine in car so getting a new washer on it is impossiblr. It is also (I thought) just about impossible to get at with a spanner at all, E.I.C.

 

The first part you asked about above - I was referring to the copper washers on the banjo bolt that goes to the stand where the warning light switch, oil pressured sender and 3 small tubes are situated... I'm sorry. I wasn't clear. ---- I *think* there might be a leak there. It's hard to tell.

And for the banjo on the A bank. I think you're right. Its a very very tight fit... I will absolutely leave it alone once assured it's not a leaker... But I can't tell whether it's leaking/weaping or not, yet. I was under the car doing the oil pan gasket the other day and found a LOT of tarred up baked on oil that had accumulated on the exhaust right after the down pipe - mostly on the intermediate pipe... Alllll I can think about is a fire. I have to deal these leaks,,, wherever the leak,o oneaone way or another it all seems to lead to dripping onto the exhaust system.

Heres a question (not because I intend to mess around with the A bank banjo bolt if I don't have to). I recent got an engine cross brace/support used to support the engine while doing motor mounts and things. I needed it to replace motor mounts on the 928. Although I could prolly just use a jack on the xjs I was wondering if it MIGHT be possible (if I absolutely had to) to access that A bank rear banjo bolt by propping up the engine,,, removing the motor mounts which is something I need to do soon anyways,,,, and lower the engine to the point where the rear banjo bolt is more accessible due to the forward lean without the mounts....? In you all's experience would that offer some added space?

Obviously I have NEVER done anything like this on an XJS v12, but wonder how much space would be created back there with this approach. That is if,,, like you said,,, that bolt had to be attended too.

Also. Where can I get the longer bolts IF I were to need them. If I do have to remove them I don't want to reuse them and CAN'T be stuck for a week with them on order in NYC. I'll need the bits on hand, just in case.

Blah blah blah... Sorry this is so damn long.

 

So I just did this...but I cleaned the filter and put it back in as best i could. So I should toss it out?

And to JayJagJay if you are going to go after the cam cover gaskets then I would, and what I plan to do, is take the whole top half of the engine off and go through everything, new fuel lines etc. all that jazz.

 

From Grant's teaching, anything to reduce the amount of internal engine pressure is a good thing to prevent oil leaks. Mine was all gummed up and I could imagine it would be long, if cleaned, before it was gummed up again...

And the top end. Yeah, I did all fuel injectors, hoses, regulators (eliminated one reg) and other things as well. Now it's time to go a step further.

Res,,, you're doing amazing stuff up there!

 

Lol not quite amazing. I just took out the pvc filter. If grant says toss it then i will. I cleaned the pipe from the pvc to airbox as well. Was full of crud. Im gonna grab a bottle brush for baby bottles and clean it even better when i tear the top half off.

oil pan is next on my underneath list while I wait for that bolt from the UK. I know its leaking. Probably never been changed.

 

The pvc filter cam be cleaned by soaking it in gasoline or other solvent like paint thinner. I reduced most of my oil leaks by doing a proper remote oil catch and junking the stock pvc garbage.

 

If you remove the OEM PCV system, then, as Vancouver says above you should fit a catch tank and associated vac line into the manifold. I ditched the PCV completely for a while, but seeps of oil appeared; once the catch tank was installed, all dry again.
The actual filter itself just needs a soak in petrol or white spirit and a blow through afterwards to clean it up.

 

I plan on adding one while I do the top end. And ditch anything I don't need like emisisons.

 

As an interesting note, on about 1000 miles of hard driving my new catch system pulled maybe a shot glass of very fumey, pungent black oil. I can't imagine that is good for the intake glad its filtered out now....the intake runners must be caked with oil by now.

 

Is there a "catch system" 101 write up somewhere?
I'd pay in thank youz!

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ctures-232455/

And



You'll have to find a similar item in your country, they're all knockoffs of Mishimoto brand but it seems to work just the same and save alot of money. I did need liquid gasket for the bottom hex nut that leaked, the rest of fittings got thread locker. I used a 1/2 to 3/8 fitting barb to adapt OEM vent cap housing to new rubber line. Deleted existing Jag vent contraption and plastered over with a different high temp liquid gasket as seen in the pics.

 

The stuff in my filter was black and tar like lol. I soaked the filter for hours. It went from not see through to about a dime size see through. Don't think it was every cleaned. Like the rest of the stuff.

 

Ah HA!!! I see said the blind man. Thanks for this. I have done some things around this whole area I am not too proud of. This makes great sense... As I promised, payment...

Deep bow and thank you!