Hey guys,

​​​​​​Ive looked around and found that advance auto and AutoZone both have "matches your vehicle" fuel injectors, but for the price that they are, I don't want to order almost $500 dollars worth of injectors to find out they don't actually fit. They also don't really look like the injectors that are on the car even though the sites both say they are OEM replacements. Does anyone know a solid replacement for those injectors? Thank you. Mine are cruddy with rust.

 

Welcome to the Forums.

When the mud clears, please do an Intro in teh New Members Area.

Aftermarket sadly has more mistakes than politician promises. Having spent 55 years in Auto Spare PArts, I reckon I have an edge on that.

I have the actual Bosch number:
0 280 150 163. UP TO 2/90
0 280 155 007 FROM 3/90.

Your profile states 1990, but the actual BUILD DATE is the key to wrong or right parts, NOT the MY that too many use.

I have never replced or had Proffesionally cleaned any Injector in all my years. Unless they are mechanically/electrical broken, have them cleaned if ypu must.

 

Absolutely, and thank you for the help. I'll pop on over there and make a post in that thread. As far as the 1990 model year, I'll be honest I don't know why it is that on my profile. I've tried to change that. My actual year model is an 87. I maybe fat fingered that when I made the account and didn't notice. Either way, I appreciate you for your help and will review the other thread you mentioned. Additionally, is there any special procedure for getting these cleaned? I want to do it right the first time. Thank you 🙏

 

All good.

If you still cannot change that profile a quick PM to one of the Moderators should have it sorted.

There are many threads in this section about cleaning services in different markets. I use a good quality Injector Cleaner in about 20ltrs of fuel, and DRIVE THE BEAST, topping up the fuel as needed, and adding more cleaner if needed.

The V12 sitting around is a no no, as is drive them. They be bred to run fast and hard.

One of mine is ticking quietly towards 700000kms, and untouched apart from normal wear and tear, and since its the wifes car, she drives it extremely hard.

 

Interestingly enough I'm in the process of following your "post purchase worksheet" like it's biblical text. It's been a big help so far, and is currently why I have the fuel rail disassembled. It was pretty cruddy with rust and assumed I needed a replacement. That and a fuel hose by the intake on LHS that has absolutely melted through. Trying to find replacements for a jag this old is probably going to be tough but you've been a big help

 

Actually. I'll just show you where I'm at with this and maybe you can give a best guess on what my next move should be. keep in mind I've never restored an xjs and I essentially have no idea if I'll need new hose, how to get it cut, formed, and overall just restore this fuel system. Do all the hoses have to be cut to an exact length, is the fuel rail salvageable, things like that. I'm essentially just stuck on this step all together. Once I get past this fuel rail issue, I think I can pick up some pace on this project . Again, your experience is invaluable and I appreciate you.

 

Watch this series of videos on Youtube, starting with this one:
He goes thru the whole process of removing, cleaning and reassembling the fuel injectors, rails and hoses.

 

You can buy a complete kit to refurb the injectors from this very good supplier. All hoses correct and cut to length, highly recommended:
https://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Product.a...ductId=3260395

 

The both of you thank you. Those videos were exactly the stuff needed. Amazing they came out only a few weeks ago. Thanks again. I believe I'm well equipped now. It will probably be a minute before the pintle caps and things are found and come in but I'll try to show a finished product once it's there.

 

Glad we could help.

Jon

 

Watched episode 10 this week but please watch 11 as well. They give a tip about removing them with a soldering iron instead of drilling!

 

I am going to add a caution and a caveat to this process.

Under no circumstance must the voltage be 'sustained' on the injector - do NOT try to hold it open - head the statemment about the injector pulsing and that pulse really shouldn't exceed 1 second on with a suitable rest period or you WILL burn out the coil in the injector.

The spray pattern he showed is terrible but I've never found a way to get better and believe me when I say I've tried, one of the challenges with these injectors is the low working pressure circa 35psi. It is not only about spray pattern though - you need to ensure the correct 'cc' per minute at a known rpm and working pressure each injector needs to be within 'x' % of the others - I'll dig out my notes later and post but the weathers nice so it's spanner time. Although I have done mine I have yet to put them back into service so I am not going to be surprised if I need to pull these things again.

As an additional tip I reverse flushed mine when the filter baskets were out before I put the pintle caps on - but be careful when those caps are off - you do not want to touch or otherwise violate the needle tip that pokes out - I then assembled and forward flushed / cleaned - all whilst pulsing the injector. I bought almost the same tool he has and it does work but it is a real pfaff as the fittings it come with aren't suitable for the Bosch injectors on the 5.3 HE's - or pre HE's so I had to MacGuyver the connections.

Edit :

Here is the the data that is quoted by Bosch - note there are contradictions in published information, specifically operating pressure of the system. I have two documents that give different values for this - one states 28.5 to 30 psi, another states the inlet regulator is set to 45 psi and the outlet to 35 psi so the actual running pressure I have yet to confirm.

The Bosch injector part 0280150161 details (those ending 162, 163, 164 are the same - I believe the hose length created the different numbers.

cc/min @ 3 bar = 196
Resistance = 2.4 ohm

Pulse duration at idle = 2.6 to 3.1ms
Pulse duration diven = 2.9.to 3.1ms
Pulse duration full throttle = 10 to 11.6ms

Mine were all within .4 ml over a 5 minute run - I did the run on idle settings (3ms) and saw approx 12 ml off each injector per minute - I don't know what pulse duration Bosch uses to define their numbers but since mine were all pretty well aligned and I don't exactly have a professional flow bench so I didn't bother digging. I do have a couple with pretty iffy spray patterns and nothing I do improves this so I'm going to run them and see how things behave, which is why I say that I may end up pulling them back out if I don't get even exhaust temps on each cylinder - but I'm trying to avoid spending another 4 figure sum that may be pointless.

Mine are currently vacuum packed so I'm planning to 're-test' each one once I come to fitting - because they don't like being on the shelf out of the fuel system according to MrInjector but I had zero options.

You do not want these engines running too lean or a heavy right foot could be terminal.

 

I appreciate that info. I just finished removing the hose from all barb connections. Definitely not a quick process. I'm going to spend the day trying to clean the injectors but I can only clean the surface. I got brushes, sandpaper, and some brake cleaner. That's really about it.
my questions at this point might then be:
1. Is it going to benefit me to order that mrinjector cleaner kit that was recommended (out of country) or have someone do them and test them etc.
2. If I do my own injector tests,( seems like a worthwhile experience) how do I get it to pulse like he did in the video.
3. Is the pintle caps, and o ring set he ordered generic?

Current status: the rail has been cleaned and painted and tucked away, and the injectors have been disassembled and are tucked away in a drawer awaiting cleaning.


​​​​Again, thanks for that info ,Sir. This whole thread has been invaluable knowledge .

 

If by cleaner kit you are referring to the 'service' kit then it depends on whether you are going to DIY or send them out.

If you DIY the kit is very comprehensive and worthwhile. I bought seal kit 180 (doesn't readily appear) - this is a link. This kit contains just about everything you need except your own labor and will to get stuck in, these things aren't generic as in Walmart generic, you need specifics for the Bosch injector.

If you note the video he seems to have some kind of light dimmer so that's something specific to the booster pack he is using, I don't think I've ever seen one like that. This works on PWM - pulse width modulation - and that provided him a pulse albeit not a particularly accurate one. I bought the Chinesium tool and I think it worked out OK - only time will tell. I wanted the tools though because I have two other classics with injection systems but I can't justify the cost of a commercial flow bench - which incidentally is not a cleaning station - no injector place worth using will clean injectors on a flow bench they have specific tools for it.

One thing that I'd recommend for the fuel rail is to give it some sharp smacks with a reasonably heavy piece of wood while you hold it - then tip it up and see if any dust / rust falls out - mine was bad so I beat on the thing until nothing else came out.

Don't forget all the other fuel hoses, Ethanol so loved in the USA (and here now) is the bane of the classic community - not only does it absorb water and create rust but it de-natures much faster and can turn a functional injection system into an erratic mess in a vehicle that isn't run regularly or stored in a climate controlled space, it also attacks 'classic' materials - horrid stuff.

 

I am lucky to have the use of an ultrasonic cleaner for my injectors.
If you don't have that or any other specialised cleaning kit, try this.
Connect a set of wires to a spare injector plug.
If you have no spare plug you can buy them easily or find one in a wrecker's yard.
Put the injector in a jar of cleaning fluid, brake cleaner might be good.
Connect the wires across a 12V battery to pulse the injector.
Note injectors do not like a constant 12V, it will overheat the coil.
That will help clean it.
Watch out for sparks at the battery, not good near flammable liquids.

 

That's perfect. I'm gonna order that and hopefully it ships over seas just fine. But yeh the fuel (Obama has or whatever it is) that sat in this car absolutely turned one of my fuel lines into a crumbly jelly goop. Thanks for the help

 

If I can find the time I might try this and hopefully not kill myself with it . Thank you

 

Hey all
Is it possible to mount all engine controls from a pre HE on a HE?
And pre HE engine is overheated and we want to exchange it with a HE engine - but in a way so it still looks like a pre HE.
Soren Post
Denmark

 

I don't think so the flow rate on the pre HE injectors is higher than the HE, significantly so based on Bosch injector numbers. The pre HE is first in the list, the HE second, so I'd be unsure how successful you would be with the older config or how much more would need to change but injectors for certain - the ECU is a likely requirement, fuel pump and regulator, doesn't hurt to try but be prepared to do some serious diagnostics and messing about.

BOSCH NUMBER LBS/HR CC/MIN GRAMS PSI BAR
0-280-150-035 30.5 320.6 230.6 29 2
0-280-150-162 17.2 180.8 130 43.5 3

Sorry about the formatting - there's no way to stop the forum removing whitespace and no table - I'm too lazy to html one ... Injector flow rates