Guys

Here is a link to a slideshow showing what I did on my rebuild. I warn you that there are about 180 shots. I have put some explanatory notes on each photo:

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

I had two cars, both the same age, and I took the better shell and put the better mechanicals into it. As you will notice, I cannot afford a respray yet! But the car goes really well and is an absolute dream to drive.

If anyone has any questions about what I did, please do not hesitate to ask away.

Greg

 

That's immpressive Greg, I'll bet Rory had a blast!
I can't imagine where I could find someone to do the solder job on the tank here.
That bearing spacer must have been a guddle to get just right.
My only complaint was I couldn't find a way to pause the slideshow, even at slow it was too fast sometimes, could be operator error!
There was no need to point out the rev counter to prove it was running the smile in the next pic says it all!

 

Thank you Norri. When I look back on the photos, I cannot imagine how I did it all! I have had an experiment on the photo site, and I think the best thing to do is to click on the word "back", next to the word "options" top right of screen. Double click on the first photo and this then allows a different view that can be moved using the 'next' button. Or use this handy link!:

http://s1010.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSCF3122.jpg

Greg

 

Greg,

Fantastic piece of work.

You might have problems holding on to it when Rory is old enough to drive!

Graham

 

Unbelievable job! I maintain my own cars but what you did is above and beyond saving a Jaguar. It was "Mission Impossible" and you did it.

 

how did you do your block the large holes for your lutz mod? or is there a kit with those bushings in it?

 

Great work! Praise for getting a rough cat back to purring!

 

The machine shop cleaned up the holes so they were round, and pressed in 4mm deep blanks with the smaller holes drilled to size. They were made to a slight interference fit. Then skimmed the surface. They did a great job.

Greg

 

nice. what were the hole diameters when finished?

 

Hole nearest the front 4mm. Second hole 11mm. Rear water manifold unchanged. But if you are a racer there are further mods that Mr. Lutz recommends, including larger water rail pipes and slight mod to rear manifold sizes.

Apparently these further mods were Tom Walkinshaw's answer to evening out the water temperatures along the block in his racing XJSs in the mid 80s. The 'stage 1' mods I have done work fine for fast road use, I am told.

One slight effect is that the temperature gauge reads a touch higher than before. This is because the cooler water being pushed into the block by the water pump no longer preferentially 'short circuits' out through the front exits points on the heads.

 

I assume your car is RHD version, because it came from UK? I know old cars in France were RHD, but that was 100 years ago

 

Correct. LHD XJSs were sold in France in some numbers, you still see them in Paris occasionally, and they come up for sale quite regularly. Prices for equivalent condition XJSs in France are much higher than in the UK for some reason.

Greg

 

Your welding needs some help
Weld hotter, feed faster and move super fast, so metal does not burn through.
It is also interesting how your car rusted differently from mine, even though mine was a real turd, before I started cutting our sections and replacing with fresh donor parts. You can see some pics here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...st-here-55680/
One question, what type of gray primer are you using in these pictures?

 

In most cases I first used stuff called Aquaseal, a proprietory anti rust fluid used on oil rigs and marine installations (sprayed into cavities, brushed on outside surfaces). Then I painted over with this grey paint. It is a NATO spec modern version of zinc chromate paint (less toxic); and quite expensive. Made by Indestructible paints in the UK. Sprayed it into cavities and brushed it outside. Then I covered it with wax protection. I did all the cavities, sill insides, chassis rail insides and wheel arch inners etc etc with this procedure.

This shell was relatively un-rusty because it had been in a lock-up garage for the last 20 years. The other car, which had been used all the time, was shot everywhere, floors, wheelarches, screen valence, all the usual places. It was the disappointment of this that made me determined to protect the rebuild as well as I possibly could.

Welds not too pretty I agree, but I guarantee you this, they are very strong!

Greg

 

nice pix Greg!

reminds me of doing mine 16yrs ago, id put up pix but they on VHS tape, that is slowly turning dark, something to do with age of tape.

long as the welds do there job all is OK, FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION!

Ron

 

We have similar thing, called DryLock. Wicked white stuff, used to make basements water tight and when applied on any surface, it prevents water penetration. I was thinking of using it, but decided to go with wax based amber rust proofing for cavities and self etching primer + Pickup truck bed liner + black wax based rust proofing on the outside.

 

My hat's off to you, Greg ! Thanks for sharing the lics.

Cheers
DD

 

I am very grateful for, and touched by, the many congratulations that have been posted. Thank you all very much.

Greg

 

Hi Greg, I'm following your thread, someone compared my work to yours which is a great compliment. I'll be adding to the photobucket until I have had too much wine to get it right. I was supposed to be removing my fuel rail today to see how many injectors I fried by shorting out the Orange/White wire from the ECU during my welding but it was too depressing so I'm here at the PC instead.

 

I just watched and there is a pause button in the bottom left hand corner.