Replacing cps
I’ve read here it can be done from the top . Remove bracket and sensor together . Can any one point me to a good diy? I’ve searched but most threads get into other subjects . Thank you, Jeff
How to Replace the Crank Position Sensor on an XJS 4.0L (AJ16)
There is no Adjustment as such, it either Works or it doesn't so get yourself a New One from Amazon
There is no Adjustment as such, it either Works or it doesn't so get yourself a New One from Amazon
Thank you , I was reading your thread and it sounded like you had a huge learning curve. Where you eventually got it from the top in record time. Can you elaborate that part for me?regards,jeff 95 4.0
Hi Jeff
First off you do not need to remove any hoses or Water Pipes, although if this happens to be the very first time you've done this then undoing the Top Rad Waterpipe will allow you to see what you're doing a little bit better
Then have a look through the Gap with a Torch and you will see the CPS that is bolted to a Bracket by one Single Bolt and there is also a Plug to plug it in, which is a Total PIA to try and unclip
So now you need to remember everything you see, as once you've put your hand back in you can't see anything, so this is a job you do by touch and feel
(1) Unclip the electrical plug
(2) Undo the Single Bolt and remove it but be very Careful that you don't lose the 'Metal Sealing Thingy' that's behind it because it isn't fixed to anything and can easily fall out, without you even knowing that its happened, so best to put an Old Bath Towel underneath to catch it just in case
Especially if you are doing this job by the Side of the Road
Once you've got the Bracket out with the CPS that's still attached, then you can Change the CPS for a New one, these are dirt cheap on Amazon and also work as well as Big Name Brands
Then once the New CPS is back on the Bracket, just bolt the Bracket Back and Plug it in, Not forgetting to make sure that the Oil retaining disc of which we spoke of earlier, is first nicely snug and back in place
Then simply Start her up and off you go...... But keep the Old Crank Sensor as a Spare (in the glove box) as for reasons that cannot be explained they can sometimes put themselves right, if moisture may have got in, if you haven't used your Car for a while
Once you get the feel of what you're doing, as you can't see anything at all, it should only take less than 5 Minutes to do it
Good luck though I'm sure that you won't need it
Alex
First off you do not need to remove any hoses or Water Pipes, although if this happens to be the very first time you've done this then undoing the Top Rad Waterpipe will allow you to see what you're doing a little bit better
Then have a look through the Gap with a Torch and you will see the CPS that is bolted to a Bracket by one Single Bolt and there is also a Plug to plug it in, which is a Total PIA to try and unclip
So now you need to remember everything you see, as once you've put your hand back in you can't see anything, so this is a job you do by touch and feel
(1) Unclip the electrical plug
(2) Undo the Single Bolt and remove it but be very Careful that you don't lose the 'Metal Sealing Thingy' that's behind it because it isn't fixed to anything and can easily fall out, without you even knowing that its happened, so best to put an Old Bath Towel underneath to catch it just in case
Especially if you are doing this job by the Side of the Road
Once you've got the Bracket out with the CPS that's still attached, then you can Change the CPS for a New one, these are dirt cheap on Amazon and also work as well as Big Name Brands
Then once the New CPS is back on the Bracket, just bolt the Bracket Back and Plug it in, Not forgetting to make sure that the Oil retaining disc of which we spoke of earlier, is first nicely snug and back in place
Then simply Start her up and off you go...... But keep the Old Crank Sensor as a Spare (in the glove box) as for reasons that cannot be explained they can sometimes put themselves right, if moisture may have got in, if you haven't used your Car for a while
Once you get the feel of what you're doing, as you can't see anything at all, it should only take less than 5 Minutes to do it
Good luck though I'm sure that you won't need it
Alex
Im got my air intake in the way. got to remove that first but the part that attaches thru the radiator support is driving me nuts
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Hi Jeff
You don't need to remove anything, you're just making work for yourself
You just have to feel around and look with a Torch to begin with and do the whole job by feel and then as you do so build up a picture in your mind of what goes where
Except just take off the Bracket with the CPS still attached
(1) Replace the CPS on the Bracket with a New one from Amazon
(2) Replace the Bracket with the NEW CPS attached
(3) Bolt back the Bracket with its Single Bolt (Do not over tighten it!)
(4) Plug the wire back in and then you're good to go
(5) There were some Cable Clips holding the Plug and Wire to the Bracket that I Cut off with side cutters and then once it was all back together and working, I put one of my own Cable Clips on, to keep the Wires away from the Belts and the Pulleys
This is a dead easy job that you can do in 10 mins Max and still stop for a Cup of Tea! and have time for a Biscuit!
You will also be able to feel if the Grease retaining Washer is still in place and hasn't fallen out because if it has then there will be oil all over the Floor
You don't need to remove anything, you're just making work for yourself
You just have to feel around and look with a Torch to begin with and do the whole job by feel and then as you do so build up a picture in your mind of what goes where
Except just take off the Bracket with the CPS still attached
(1) Replace the CPS on the Bracket with a New one from Amazon
(2) Replace the Bracket with the NEW CPS attached
(3) Bolt back the Bracket with its Single Bolt (Do not over tighten it!)
(4) Plug the wire back in and then you're good to go
(5) There were some Cable Clips holding the Plug and Wire to the Bracket that I Cut off with side cutters and then once it was all back together and working, I put one of my own Cable Clips on, to keep the Wires away from the Belts and the Pulleys
This is a dead easy job that you can do in 10 mins Max and still stop for a Cup of Tea! and have time for a Biscuit!
You will also be able to feel if the Grease retaining Washer is still in place and hasn't fallen out because if it has then there will be oil all over the Floor
Hi Jeff
You don't need to remove anything, you're just making work for yourself
You just have to feel around and look with a Torch to begin with and do the whole job by feel and then as you do so build up a picture in your mind of what goes where
Except just take off the Bracket with the CPS still attached
(1) Replace the CPS on the Bracket with a New one from Amazon
(2) Replace the Bracket with the NEW CPS attached
(3) Bolt back the Bracket with its Single Bolt (Do not over tighten it!)
(4) Plug the wire back in and then you're good to go
(5) There were some Cable Clips holding the Plug and Wire to the Bracket that I Cut off with side cutters and then once it was all back together and working, I put one of my own Cable Clips on, to keep the Wires away from the Belts and the Pulleys
This is a dead easy job that you can do in 10 mins Max and still stop for a Cup of Tea! and have time for a Biscuit!
You will also be able to feel if the Grease retaining Washer is still in place and hasn't fallen out because if it has then there will be oil all over the Floor
You don't need to remove anything, you're just making work for yourself
You just have to feel around and look with a Torch to begin with and do the whole job by feel and then as you do so build up a picture in your mind of what goes where
Except just take off the Bracket with the CPS still attached
(1) Replace the CPS on the Bracket with a New one from Amazon
(2) Replace the Bracket with the NEW CPS attached
(3) Bolt back the Bracket with its Single Bolt (Do not over tighten it!)
(4) Plug the wire back in and then you're good to go
(5) There were some Cable Clips holding the Plug and Wire to the Bracket that I Cut off with side cutters and then once it was all back together and working, I put one of my own Cable Clips on, to keep the Wires away from the Belts and the Pulleys
This is a dead easy job that you can do in 10 mins Max and still stop for a Cup of Tea! and have time for a Biscuit!
You will also be able to feel if the Grease retaining Washer is still in place and hasn't fallen out because if it has then there will be oil all over the Floor
Jeff,
As OB has mentioned, it's really 5-min job. Yes, it's easier with the air intake removed. And yes, pressing those little plastic tangs in the air intake can be a pain the first time. But yoy need to practice that anyway as there are many occasions when you need that air intake removed.
Take the air intake off, give yourself 30 mins and you'll be fine.
Paul
As OB has mentioned, it's really 5-min job. Yes, it's easier with the air intake removed. And yes, pressing those little plastic tangs in the air intake can be a pain the first time. But yoy need to practice that anyway as there are many occasions when you need that air intake removed.
Take the air intake off, give yourself 30 mins and you'll be fine.
Paul
Update. I have successfully replaced the cps . My additional notes are as follows
1. all bolts involved in this job are 8mm. There are three . One holding the cps to the block seen directly to the front side of the sensor and two holding the metal bracket
2. i was confused about the term bracket as theres one that secures the cps to the block. Held on by two10mm bolts and one bracket that holds the female end of the cps plug. The later is the one to remove and looks like a thin metal strap mounted onto a round “thing”
3. after removing the two8 mm bolts securing the metal strap ,the bolts also secure a round metal cover that can fall off to under the car. Mine did and it was difficult to find in my gravel driveway so watch for this.
4. on my 95 xjs the air intake pipe had to be removed to gain access to front of engine. Its frigidy pia . Remove front horn first then push plastic pipe back out of radiator frame and disconnect at corrugated portion before filter canister.
My new cps did not seem to solve my no start problem, but the tach now is reading much more than a light pulse when i crank the engine. Im guessing the original cps was malfunctioning. So i assume the cps signal is getting thru my ecu to the tach and that the ecu is not the culprit. Pulling spark plugs today and will replace with new as i dont know the age of the old ones. So im still interested in suggestions on how to proceed. Thanks everyone for your help
1. all bolts involved in this job are 8mm. There are three . One holding the cps to the block seen directly to the front side of the sensor and two holding the metal bracket
2. i was confused about the term bracket as theres one that secures the cps to the block. Held on by two10mm bolts and one bracket that holds the female end of the cps plug. The later is the one to remove and looks like a thin metal strap mounted onto a round “thing”
3. after removing the two8 mm bolts securing the metal strap ,the bolts also secure a round metal cover that can fall off to under the car. Mine did and it was difficult to find in my gravel driveway so watch for this.
4. on my 95 xjs the air intake pipe had to be removed to gain access to front of engine. Its frigidy pia . Remove front horn first then push plastic pipe back out of radiator frame and disconnect at corrugated portion before filter canister.
My new cps did not seem to solve my no start problem, but the tach now is reading much more than a light pulse when i crank the engine. Im guessing the original cps was malfunctioning. So i assume the cps signal is getting thru my ecu to the tach and that the ecu is not the culprit. Pulling spark plugs today and will replace with new as i dont know the age of the old ones. So im still interested in suggestions on how to proceed. Thanks everyone for your help
I would abandon this thread now that the CPS has been successfully replaced. (I'm sure you've triple checked if it was plugged in)
I would remain active on your other thread, since that's a more accurate description.
I would remain active on your other thread, since that's a more accurate description.
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