As the title states, please read the attached PDF.

I will ask GGG to sticky it, if it is suitable.

 

Very important writeup Grantg. Thanks.

 

Great write-up, Grant, as usual. I have a complete set of hoses sitting on my shelf just waiting to be put on my car! Thanks for all the great info, lots of misinformation out there. I have also watched Adam work on these on his YouTube Channel- "Living with a Classic", and it does not seem too bad if you take your time and pay attention!
Thanks again for the great paper.....
John in Florida

 

I can tell from all the posting over the years this is a dead horse, however I did not find the one answer I need. My 1989 XJS HE had the original barb on the incoming and return EFI hose without a hose clamp and the other end of the barbed connector was welded onto the tubing running under the car. SNG Barrett cannot find a part number for this part. I did find part number C17335 that has the barbed end, and the other end has the standard o-ring compression fitting used on the EFI fuel tubing under the car. The description says that this part is used on the older jags with carburetors. The picture for the part number looks like a standard high pressure o-ring coupling. Has anyone used part number C17335 when Barbed coupling to compression connection to carburetor
replacing the fuel piping? Attached is a picture of a brass fitting I purchased that also looks like part number C17335. Should I have the barb welded onto the steel fuel line, part number C17335 or the brass coupling I purchased?

 

The barb on the engine end of the fuel feed and return hard lines that run uner the car is an integral part of the hard line, it did not come as a separate part. The parts are numbers 2 and 3 on this diagram and are NLA:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

Are your hard lines shot? If so the best thing is to make up new ones using cunifer or steel and buy an 8mm barbed hose tail and get it braised onto the end, rather than a compression fitting in the engine bay. If part of the OEM line is OK, then they can be joined by a braided flexible with double clips on each side for safety.

 

The lines under the car were fine. However, I am replacing all the piping under the car. Do you know of a company that makes pre-bent fuel lines, or will I need to make my own?

 

I think you're on your own. I've not seen anyone offering pre-made lines. Let's hear what others have to say, though.

Cheers
DD

 

I agree with Doug.

Never had the need, so looking was not a priority.

Back when I was with Jaguar, there was a Part Number for them, as well as brake pipes, bit supply was always NO.

I have "repaired" many over the years due to Tyre Fitters damaging them when raising the car, and that was simply EFI hose and double clamped each end.

 

I will keep practicing on my bending skills. I am thinking about installing a fuel shutoff valve in the trunk on the low pressure side of the fuel line before the fuel pump. Any ideas or is this a good idea. I just want to be able to turn off the fuel in case of a fuel leek or if I am working on the fuel lines.

 

The gravity feed is only TO the sump tank, and the Inlet of the pump.

I looked at that years ago, NOPE, more connections to weep and stick the car.

Being "odd" as I am, I simply syphon the main tank, drain the sump through the hole in the floor,including main extra slops, then do with what I need. Planning so the Main is NOT full helps a bucket load, HA.

It took a long time to sort the stink in the boot/car, thanks to JD Weld, all done.

AND
My fuel filter is in the engine bay, RH side near the radiator tank, best thing ever in MY opinion.

 

With the fuel filter up front, I bet your trunk looks a lot cleaner.
The drain valve was stuck on my fuel sump, and now it is really stuck since it has been power coat painted. I read your EFI paper and have already removed the hose from the fuel rail with the butane torch as recommended by another member without one nick on the barbs and saved the cups with little damage. Has anyone sent parts out to be electroplated to get parts back to the original gold color, or darker? If so, do you have a contact? I have found a couple of places that can plate them, I just don't know the quality of their work. Did you know they can electroplate chrome on to plastic grills etc.?

 

Oh shoot. I didn’t realize the hard lines going through the bulkhead had rubber sections.

I suppose much less danger of fire outside the engine compartment but these should be changed too.