Doug,

The main filter is after the pump but there is a small filter that fits over the pick up pipe in the sump tank that feeds to the pump. So it does have two filters.

 

What I would do, personally, is ditch the screen in the sump tank and replace it with an external filter. Easier to change when needed.

On my XJS I ditched the screen and relocated the main filter so it was ahead of the fuel pump, as I recall. Been a few years, though.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug, Brad
The main filter before the pump is not a good idea in the XJS. It needs pump pressure to get the fuel through it. If fitted before, it will starve the pump and ruin it.
I have found that the sock filter in the sump tank works well, and I do not think it is worthwhile replacing it with an external inline filter. If anyone were to, then it would have to be in the gravity feed from the main tank to the sump tank. This would require a 1/2 inch inlet and outlet - which I was not been able to find when I considered this mod (mentioned in the Great Palm's book). Also, unless fuel taps are fitted each side of it, changing such a filter would be not much easier than changing the sock filter! And if taps are fitted, the whole thing gets large and cumbersome and a racing certainty for leaks/fuel smells.
Just my view, O Sage of S!
Greg

 

I'm probably confusing Series III with XJS. Among Series III owners it's popular to use a pre-filter on the lines coming from each tank, to save the pump and changeover over valve from being ruined by rust and debris from the tanks. But those are 1/2" lines.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks guys,

I am just staying with the original stock set up with the pickup tube filter (whatever it is called) in the sump tank followed by the pump followed by the filter and then off to the fuel rail.

 

Going back in today to hopefully finish up the re-do on the fuel system. A couple of connections to the tank and filler neck. Hopefully the new fuel pump shows up via UPS. Wish me luck. I need all the help I can get.

 

OK, Nothing is ever easy with these cars but it's nice when its finished and right.

Had to get a new feral fitting for the fuel return line into the tank. Then had to jimmy the pipe around a bit to get it to go into the hole properly. I was personally unsuccessful but my friend who owns the shop was able to get it to go in properly. After that the filler neck was the next challenge. 3rd time is a charm. The filler neck is the only component of the fuel system I did not replace. But I did clean the bejesus out of it with a wire wheel brush on a drill, a pick, and muratic acid. Even managed to get the filler neck on at the right angle for the alignment bracket to cinch down. Note to all. Put some lubricant on the filler neck and the rubber neck gasket and fuel tank rubber sleeve. It makes things much easier.
Sump tank, filter, battery, return lines all hooked up. Sending unit installed and hooked up. Just waiting on UPS to deliver my new fuel pump. It must be coming by rowboat because its 5 days now. Maybe it will show later this afternoon.
Install the fuel pump, get a few gallons of new gas, and keep my fingers crossed. After that a nice washing and detail session on the wire wheels. Then hit the road for some short close to hometest drives before finding some long stretches of open road to let her really run.

 

New fuel pump just arrived with the mail. No directions, fuel flow arrow or IN OUT stamped into the body. Memory tells me IN is the larger port and OUT (to the fuel filter and then the engine) is the smaller port between the two terminals. On the bright side shipping was free.

Assuming all goes well the last two issues to address on the car are getting the mirrors to work and then the A/C.

It has new hoses and drier. The compressor oil was changed to PAG 134. Pulley spins, don't know if clutch engages. I have two spare compressors just in case.

 

Everything connected, wired, tightened. Four gallons of gas .....and no fuel pressure. Cranked the car several times with no success. Let it sit for a while. Came back and tried again. Did that three times. Pulled the hose off the rail to the 1A injector to check for pressure. A little gas in the bottom of the hose. Put my rag in front of the barbed nozzle and turned the key. No gas.
New tank, sump tank, filter main filter and pickup filter, and pump.

ideas????? What do I check next?? I am a patient man but this is pushing me to the outer limits.

 

Is the pump even making any noise? If not, ground the orange wire at the fuel pump relay and turn the key 'on'. Any change?

Do you have a 12v test light or meter to make some circuit checks?


Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, I'll do that. Which one is the pump relay again?

I did not hear any noise but I didn't hear nay noise from the previous pump either.

 

Brad
At least this is a relatively straightforward solvable problem, as it looks like no juice to the pump. Further to Doug's post, a few extra things to test:
Check that the live feed wire is on the + post of the pump.
Ask a helper to turn the ignition on, and using a test light see if there is 12v to the pump positive wire.
If not, check that the huge spade connector clipped on the battery main positive cable is definitely properly connected.
Check and clean the earth connector bolts (RHS boot tunnel edge below the relay row). Ensure they are making a good earth, particularly the one that earths the pump.
CAREFULLY hotwire the positive pump terminal with 12 volts (ignition off) using a spare wire just touched to the battery, and see if the pump runs.
If no result, ask someone here who understands about the pump relay/ECU system. The ECU somehow starts and stops the pump relay signal, and this aspect I have never quite grasped.
Greg

 

Hi Brad

As unbelievable as it Sounds, some of these New Replacement Fuel Pumps have the Terminals on the Wrong Way Round!

So what you think is the Positive Terminal turns out to be the Negative and Visa Versa.

How do I know? 'Grant' warned me and he was right! My New Fuel Pump was like that and I had to reverse the Wires that go on the Fuel Pump.

This is Not True of ALL Fuel Pumps but it is for some of them, it all depends where it was made.

Next Question: How do you Test the Fuel Pump Relay is Working?

You will need a Test Light which can be positioned so that you can see it while you are sitting in the Car.

Take the Wires off the Fuel Pump and Connect them to the Test Light (either way round) and then place the Test Light where you can see it while you are sitting in the Car.

Next: Look at the Test Light and Turn the Ignition ON but don't try and Start it.

If the Fuel Pump Relay is Working, the Test Light will Light for about 3 Seconds and then go OFF of its own accord.

Do this Activation half a dozen times just to be sure.

I also made a short Video to demonstrate how its done.

 

Victory!! Not exactly sure what the issue was but suspect it was one of the two spade terminals on the plug connected to the battery positive cable. Anyway once it all got sorted out the car turned over 2 or 3 times and then fired right up. Came up to idle quickly and ran smooth for about 20 minutes before I shut it down. Might be idling a bit high at about 850 rpm but it is rock steady with not bit of surge or variance. The throttle is immediately responsive with no hesitation or lag and comes right back to idle when I release the throttle. All good.
Tomorrow evening she gets washed and waxed hopefully. Pictures to follow soon. I now have a cable to connect my phone to the computer to transfer pictures with.
Next is the A/C. Is there an easy way to test check to see if the clutch is engaging? I have 2 spare compressors in case the one on the car is not functioning correctly.

 

Brad
Many congratulations. As you are now experiencing, once everything is right, the whole thing just feels right and goes properly. It really is worth renewing stuff wholesale, in my opinion.

As for the aircon, I suggest the first thing to check is if the compressor is getting 12 volts from the unit when the aircon is switched on. Without this the clutch will never engage. Detach the feed wire from the compressor, warm the car up and set the RHS control to defrost, and see if the 12v feed to the compressor lights up the test light.
If it does, then FWIW, I think it is a false economy to use an old compressor, it will be both inefficient, and the front seal will have failed or nearly so - they dry out if not used regularly which is why all the handbooks say run the aircon at least every week, even in the winter. A new one will work far better, and if funds run to it, a Sanden will be both better and give much more access to the plugs, as it is about 2/3 the length of the original one.
You will also need a new dryer tube (not expensive). Once again, a really good job done on the fuel, congratulations.
Greg

 

Thanks

 

I am back to losing my mind.
Car starts and runs well now. Everything was just as it is supposed to be: Gas guage, temp, oil, and volt meter. Rpm's idle at about 900 in neutral that may be a little high. Idle at stop light is solid at 700 rpm. Again maybe just a touch high but rock solid. No surging or hesitation. So far so good.

Took the car to the shop next door for an oil change and grease job. No issues. Drained old oil out, replaced filter. Hit at least 8 or the grease points. Couldn't remember where all of them are: 1 ea front wheel, 1 each rear wheel, 4 on differential. Was afraid to give the fitting on the steering rack a squirt until I checked the manual.

OK, all is good. Car is running fine.

And then it isn't. I take it for a little spin around the area and begin to notice the temp gauge going up. Climbs up to the top of the "N." It had been holding steady about two bar widths below the bottom of the "N." I have been religious about keeping the radiator free of debris for proper air flow as well as always ensuring proper coolant level.

I return to the parking area, let it idle for a minute and then shut it down. Secondary fan comes on and runs for a good 10 minutes, maybe longer. It was not a particularly hot day, low 80's and I only drove about 3-4 miles.

I am losing it with the car.

 

Once you get all these little issue sorted then i'll be just maintenance. Don't despair we've ALL be there.

Have you ever had the radiator out and rod cleaned / re-cored.

 

Fan clutch is a weak part. Pump impeller is a remote possibility. Belts all tight and grease/oil free?

 

warrjon,

sorry to say but constant "sortings out" ceases to be fun and interesting. The car has to have a reasonable degree of reliability and not need a complete re-build. The radiator has never been out of the car but it only has 71K miles on it and has always had proper level of coolant/distilled water mixture.

Always being in a positon of wondering what is going to go wrong in the next 5 minutes or 5 miles is not something I am in a position financially to entertain. The car is beautiful there is no doubt. But......