Hi everyone,

I have been looking at buying my first classic project car, and I have narrowed it down to a 90s XJS or an old Mercedes turbo-diesel. The only XJS in my area that's in my price range is mechanically fine, but will need some serious body work (probably 3-4k worth of rust repairs). I am really in love with the car, but I am afraid of the maintenance costs. I have a good friend who does work on old jags which might help, but is there anything else i should consider? are the 6.0 V12s reliable, or will it be in the shop every month. They are beautiful cars, but I don't know enough to know what I am getting into, and what else should I consider?

-Rick

 

Classic cars, no matter what marc are an infinite amount of work, especially rust.
Start out with a simpler car, ie. midget, sprite, mini or VW, and stay away from rust.
I wound up putting more than $15,000 into my FREE 1994, 6.0 coupe.
Then had to abandon it when it started to show rust.

 

The 6.0 cars are highly reliable compared to any car, even a Toyota, The earlier 5.3 cars live up to their reputation. The reason for this is that Ford purchased Jaguar around 1990 and by 1994 the car looked the same but all the soft bits such as wiring harnesses were redesigned. There is no-comparison between the wiring on a Pre-Ford and Post-Ford XJS. They also redesigned many mechanicals, streamed lined many parts lines across models and modernized manufacturing processes. Ford did a great job excising the bad and replace it with the good with laser precision. They demanded higher quality from Vendors and it showed. The 1994 to 1996 XJS' coupe or convertible are the only ones to own for a civilian (non-experienced mechanic). Earlier car are only for the most experienced and masochistic car guys who love a good kick in the nuts every now and then.

 

I have just sold my last Jaguar, an XJS that was in pretty good shape. I'd heard this advice before. and I found that it was absolutely correct. Buy a good car to start with. It's better to wait and save, or take out a loan. You really need to start out your Jaguar experience with something that you can drive and enjoy right away. (Hopefully for a couple of years!) Then you will bond with it, and will be willing to put up with and handle the problems that will surely follow. I never bonded with my XJS so I've always remained indifferent to it. That explains why I never made a commitment to fix it up. Good luck on your journey.

 

Get a 4.0 and drive

 

As a general rule, I would always prefer to buy a car that has an excellent body, paint and interior and poor mechanical, than the reverse.

Mechanical parts are generally easy to repair, whereas trimming an interior or painting a car can get very expensive, quickly. The car you are contemplating already has rust, that to me is a big red flag. But the time you see it on the outside, there is a lot more on the inside. It depends upon if you are a skilled welder and bodyman, but if you are not then it's already a big project. Paint isn't cheap these days either.

With any classic, buy the best you can afford. There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Jaguar!

 

The cheapest XJS you can find will be the most expensive one.

 

I had a couple of those old diesel Mercs (W123). I found them to be comfy and very pleasant to drive. Not at all sporty and sexy and racy like a Jag, but competent, robust all 'rounders. In fact, it was while using my 300D as a daily driver that I decided I needed an XJS for something special to drive on occasion.

 

I too had a W123 an 84 300TD wagon. Phenomenal car. V advanced for its day with 4 wheel disc brakes and self leveling rear suspension. Awesome inline 5 engine. Sounded like a tractor around town but would cruise at 140 kmh on hwy. Very solidly built with awesome engineering. Just don't get a non-turbo as v slow.

 

I would avoid a car that has serious rust unless you can fix it yourself. There is always more rust than you see.

 

I've had a W126 turbo diesel, an XJS with the V12, and an XJS with the straight six.
The Mercedes was incredibly comfortable on long drives but was numb to drive. It's mission was luxury and comfort and had no intentions of sporting.
The V12 XJS was also comfortable on long drives and was engaging to drive. It also required a lot of work and continues to keep its new owner busy.
The 1996 XJS was again comfortable on long trip and had less mechanical needs as the V12.

The big plus for the Mercedes is that the Classic Center does a good job of supporting the older Mercedes. When I was restoring a W114 a decade ago I was able to walk into my local Mercedes dealer and order a trunk floor for a car that was made in 1972. And it wasn't even that expensive.

Life is short. Buy the Jaguar.

 

Two completely different cars in almost every way, both awesome.

That said, if you can't do the body work and spin the wrenches, buy something nice unless you just
want to help make someone's boat payment.

 

I live in Central Florida. I can help you assess the car if you like. Where are you located? Since 1986 I have been buying and restoring Jaguars. Never been without one since then.Those that are really bad, I buy and scrap for parts.

 

I'm up in Jacksonville. I have decided that I am going to save up some more money and buy one in better condition, though. If you don't mind me contacting you when I get more money, I gladly will.

Thanks for the offer

 

just curious, how much was the one you were considering?

 

Lots of sound advice in this thread. My first real restoration I started at age 16 with a 1966 Mustang that was three years older than I was. It was rough and rusty, but mechanically simple. There was a Mustang parts specialist nearby where I could buy most everything and what wasn't sold there I could get at a nearby Fords Only salvage yard that had acres of Mustangs and other 60s Fords literally stacked on top of each other. Between school and work, it wound up a three-year project.

After college, I got into modifying Japanese sports cars and then later, buying wrecked Supras and either parting them out or rebuilding and reselling them. At one point I bought a Landcruiser and dabbled in that (tho having back pain, I only wished I could go offroad - that's what got me into the X308). Throughout a lifetime of car hobbies, I've spent probably almost as much money acquiring tools and shop equipment as I've wasted on the cars themselves. When you are doing something for the first time, you're often buying a new tool at the same time you're buying the part.

Fast forward to the 2010s and I restored a 1972 Corvette which was far more complicated than the Mustang of a few years earlier. For example, I spent several weekends restoring and diagnosing all of the components of the anti-theft alarm system (Not that it would ever be left parked unattended, but I would lose points for anything that didn't function correctly.) That was a five-year project. Outside of "restoration", I've struggled, even with the help of this forum, to keep my aging X308 in top condition. Its systems, mostly luxury features, are orders of magnitude more complex than that old Corvette.

Back when I started there was no internet, no car forums like this one, no youtube university. I had to go downtown and check out paper things called books from this big building they used to call a library. At least today you've got access to lots of people around the world who are willing to help, answering questions, sharing photos and even making how-to videos. That Mustang tho was an ideal car to start learning on and probably still would be a good choice today. Not too complicated, plenty of aftermarket support and didn't require anything but common hand-tools (and a few specialty loaner tools one could borrow from a local parts store). But if choosing to restore a more modern, luxury car, one should go in with eyes open, understanding that everything is going to cost more, take longer, require more tools, and be more difficult to diagnose, especially if one is not even familiar with the basics yet.