I am looking to buy an XJS within the $4-$5k range. I don't need one that is in pristine shape, but don't want a project either. I have read as much as I can on that model and the years it was made. They are certainly nice and I have always admired that low slung look. I don't have a preference on coupe or convertible.

What I would like to know are the main points to consider such as definitive issues with motors within certain MY's, Electrical issues, things to look for as being replaced that have a measured life expectancy, such as engine parts, bushings, drive line, transmission, etc..

I have seen prices range from $3k all the way to $12k. I am sure the MY has a lot to do with this, but it seems that you can find a '90 XJS from $4k to $6k without any real apparent differences.

Thanks in advance for helping.
Pat

 

I will assume from your user name you are in the USA??.

Look around on the net etc and find the book by Kirby Palm, "Experience in a Book". It is 700+ pages, it is free, and has all the answers you are seeking in there somewhere.

I am assuming also you are looking at the V12 cars??.

The 1989 on cars are Marelli ignition cars, and although reliable, once sorted as per the book, are more reliable.

They all will suffer from "lack of TLC maintenance", and that is going to govern any purchase decision, as well as running budgets. The more you can/will do yourself the better the car will always be.

 

A used XJS with no issues would be a rare beast indeed. The usual sceanrio is to buy a decent one, spend a chunk of time and cash sorting out various (hopefully small) problems and catching up on routine servicing (usually left undone by previous owners)...and then enjoy a really fabulous car. Very few of these cars get the care they deserve.



A few high points.....

About the only thing that'll hurt a Jag V12 is overheating so make sure the cooling system is in good shape and shows sign of proper care.

Make sure the climate control is functional in all modes. Repairs here can get expensive.

The vintage you're looking at has inboard rear brakes. Replacing calipers, rotors, and axle seals is labor intensive. Any XJS will eventually need this work done....but it would be a real "plus" to find one where someone else has already dealt with it.

Pull up the front carpets and check for wet floorboards. It would be nice to find an example without water leaks.

Open the trunk....do you get bowled over by fuel smell? Leaky tank and hoses are common so, here again, it woud be a bonus to find one without problems in that area.

Fortunately, most repairs one these cars are well within the realm of a decent DIY mechanic and parts are readily available...and not unreasonably priced in most cases.

Personally I would look at 88-older models simpy to avoid the additional complexity and worry of air bags, anti-lock brakes, and marelli igntion. But that's just me. There's no really strong reason to avoid '89-newer candidates if they are in good shape.

On these old Jags it's condition that drives the price more than model year. In your price range you should be able to find a decent example. Do plenty of shopping. If you happen to stumble across an exceptional example where everything has been sorted out and with invoices to prove repairs and upkeep, it would certainly be worth a higher price. To illustrate this I'll use myself as an example.

Years ago I bought a really nice XJS for $6000. Even at that price it had some issues..and several news one cropped up in the first year. Over the next two years I spent another $6000+ making it exactly the way I wanted it. Two years after that I sold it for $7000. See what I mean? The new owner got a helluva bargain!

Cheers
DD

 

Just look for a clean, complete, rust free car.

Biggest problem is that these cars are so cheap they are not worth sinking a ton of money into them when you can find better ones to buy.

Don't waste your time on any car that has any rust. Keep looking. There are rust free examples out there for the same money.

Also, keep in mind it can be far more expensive to repair or replace interior and exterior trim than to do engine or transmission work. Pass on any car that doesn't have decent seats or is missing any of the interior.

Pass on any car that anyone has cobbled the electrical system. There are too many cars whose wiper, lights, horns, and starters have been "bypassed" or "rewired". Those will only cause you headaches later.

 

Thanks for all the great info. That's exactly what I was looking for, especially the unique advice on fuel leaks, water leaks and electrical system mods. I will look for that book also.

Thanks again for all the great info. I am in Northern California and get to LA every week. I am sure I can find a rust free car here.

 

Good advice given so far.

Just my $0.02...

I couldn't afford a really good XJS and had a similar budget as you. I also wanted a project, but a drivable one. I bought a very sick (9 cylinder) 92' V12 Conv and for the past year (like Doug) I have put my heart, soul, countless hours/weekends and wallet in to it and now I am getting somewhere close to a nice car. I stopped counting how much I have spent on it because I'm very sure the number will be awful.

As long as you are willing to do a lot of the work yourself, it can be a great relationship but it will have its ups and downs. Downs for me including a Marelli cat fire that nearly cost me the car. Ups being fixing things slowly but surely (with a lot of help from this board).

Regarding rust, mine '92 lived in FL, AL, then CA and it is 100% solid (I used to work on Jags in the UK and I've never seen floor pans this good) so as per the previous advice, avoid a rusty one at all costs. The only down side of the car living in a dry state is usually the paint will have faded and the dash and or wood will be cracked. All of this can be replaced/repaired and I think it's easier to get a good car mechanically and work on the cosmetics, rather than the other way around, but I guess that depends on your own particular skill set.

I see you also have an XJ8 (me too) so at least you have a back up if the XJS doesn't feel like starting in the morning ! Be careful of garage rivalry, don't forget to keep giving your XJ8 some attention now and then!

 

Yes, the XJ8 is running well. Got 145,000 on the odometer and it passed Ca smog this year like it was new. I need to replace the shocks and maybe some bushings, but hopefully it holds together.

Have always loved the XJS. Looking forward to finding the right one in great condition. I am in no hurry and plan to keep looking for exactly what I want.

Thanks for all the sage advice,
Pat

 

Well, after doing a lot of reading with respect to which XJS to purchase, I decided to only focus on 95 and 96 model years. Most will agree these years have the best engines and engine management systems as well as other improvements. I think you should be able to find some OK ones in that price range.

I paid $9500 for my one owner 95 with 58,000 miles in gorgeous shape in November 07.

John

 

Try not to go for the V12, theres only about 40 BHP difference between the V12 and I6 Plus, you get much more MPG with the 4.0.

 

What I always look for in an XJS is an envelope in the glove box with $10,000 in it.

I start by looking for cars from the "sun belt". They won't have been driven on salt-covered roads nor have they sat in a sub-freezing garage for 6 months at a time.

Often, whats equally important to research is the OWNER. What kind of person are they? Do they take care of their stuff? Are they cheap and try to fix things half-*** with bailing wire and chewing gum? Have they kept all the records of repairs? Find out who the mechanic is and talk to them. Was it really a qualified Jag mechanic or just the local tire shop?
If they've kept their repair records, often times a mechanic will write on the invoice recomended work ahead. Then look at the next secquential bill to see if they got the recomended work done or just try to get by with the minimum until it breaks down.

 

This was a super helpful thread, I figured I'd ask here instead of making a new one.

I have been looking at 1993 XJS 4.0

Any particular gremlins from that year I should know about?

How are Jags in snow with good tires? We use rock salt on the roads in Ontario so rust is one of my primary concerns. Although there is a strong likely hood it was winter stored.

 

Take your time and don't let your emotions overwhelm you. The XJS is an alluring piece of art and and she will draw you in with her charms. By all means resist and be purely objective about the whole thing and take all of this great advice to heart!

I did not have the luxury of this wonderful forum, but I had the advantage of being in So Cal, took my time about a dozen years ago and landed a truly great black & tan beauty that was more than skin deep. Jag mechanics all tell me so! Now that I've learned a thing or two about her and have become her new DIY mechanic, I understand why. Good luck!

 

Thanks, I have the advantage of this forum, other resources and time too. I am away from home and can't realistically buy a car for another couple of months.

In a nutshell, what's this Marelli system I keep hearing about? Is it going to be problematic?

 

The Marelli (as opposed to Lucas) ignition was used on the 5.3 V12s from about mid-1989 (USA) model year forward. The key feature is that timing is computer controlled by a stand-alone ECU.

In addition to the ECU the system uses two coils (as does the Lucas), two control modules, and a unique dual-plane distributor cap and rotor. Age and/or high resistance from the plugs and/or plug wires can cause the rotor to burn through leaving an entire bank of cylinders without spark.

The result of no spark is unburned fuel collecting in the hot catalytic converters where it burns to the point of making the converters glow cherry red. The heat travels upward to the floorboards and engine bay....often resulting in an actual fire. More than a few XJSs have ended up in the scrapyard this way.

If you're aware of the possibilities....as you now are....it's simply a matter of proper servicing to prevent any problems: periodic replacement of cap, rotor, wires, and (properly gapped) spark plugs. Too often this is avoided out of simple ignorance and neglect....or because the cap and rotor are about $200 :-).

The rest of the system poses no unique problems and is no more or less reliable than any system.

There's no reason to avoid a Marelli car. Just be aware of the potential problems.

Cheers
DD

 

In addition, you also get the same potential hazard if/when one of the ignition coils fail... The Marrelli allows the car to run on half the "V" (only six cylinders)...this is where the fire hazard comes in as owners will continue to drive the car while the fuel is pouring in the glowing red cat.

By all means, if you notice a reduction in power, stop the car ASAP and have her towed home or to your nearest garage. This will avoid having to tow her to a "special place" for toasted kitties :-(.

 

So the 4.0 6cyl uses the Lucas system? Is it as failure prone? Thanks for the posts guys, this stuff is super helpful, and interesting.

Toasted kitties, this is equally amusing and sad. Is there a smiley to express that?

 

The 4.0 is a straight 6, not a V6.

I don't know what system they use, at least not the early ones. The '95-96 cars use a "coil-on-plug" system that is manufactured by Nippondenso, I think.

I'm not aware of any serious quirks with 4.0 igniton systems, early or late.

Cheers
DD

 

Well thats good news, thanks Doug!

 

First, the XJS is a pretty heavy RWD car overall with a comparatively small tire footprint. If you're slipping, put a hundred pounds or so of junk in the trunk, and you'll be OK.

Second, if you've looked at Jag forums in the UK you'll know the cars from 1975 to 1991 didn't have the best rustproofing out dere. Do you have a Ziebart or Waxoyl franchise near your location?

If no, then ROAD TRIP BABAAAY!!!! and get the stuph you need for yer ride