The one that was in my car, doesn't look like it may have been correct, but in any case, it doesn't work. At all. 0 ohms in all positions

Thanks,
Doug

 

If we give you a part number without knowing what model year or engine you have, would it really be any more reliable of a part number?

 

1988 H&E V12.

Doug

 

This is what I used to get one. I found a used one on EBAY and to date it is working. Both dials have to be set at 1 o'clock and then tweaked to get both dials to work in unison. Trial and Error
Check out ROCHESTER GAUGES LLC
Interior fuel tank, top mounting
Gear Number : N6540 59C89 4 holes
Dial : 6540 Senior TwinSite® Sender (apparently), 0 - 90 Ohm range
Hall´s effect dialing, 2 wires

Boot fuel tank, side mounting
Gear Number : N6744-8 D89 5 holes
Dial : P5ABXS0284 0-180 Ohm range
Hall´s effect dialing, 2 wires

I am planning to remove both tanks and go with a 17 gallon fuel cell which has a height of 9 inches so it will not interfere with the convertible top. I did the measurements.

 

I think this could be made to work

Flip the sender unit upside down so it reads 90 OHM empty, 0 ohm full, and modify the top flange. Obviously shorten the float arm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204146582851

Doug

 

That looks like it will work. I bought one almost exactly like it from Summit, though.

Flipped the sender upside down, and used a real short arm.

I inquired about wiring in a diff thread, as i will either have to make sure the wiring goes thru the top gauge to the bottom gauge then ground, or electrically isolate the mount on the new sender and connect it to the existing two wires.

The gauge wiring is confusing, i have two different wiring diagrams in the same H&E supplement PDF, on one page is shows wires going one way top gauge--bottom gauge---ground, on the next page it shows the wires going the other way with the ground coming off the top gauge, I believe my car has the ground coming off the top gauge. Not sure if I should simply reroute the wires, or modify the new gauge.

Doug