If warped the block is scrap.
Ben, the under car pipe joints are just plumbers imperial compression fittings. The over-axle pipes are available, ready to fit.

 

Greg is correct, although I have not seen a warped block. Not to say there are not any.

Remember, This is a Wet Liner, AND, Open Deck engine.

Liner protrusion above the deck is critical to sealing the "Fire Ring", and the outer edges of the head gasket seal around the top circumference of the block, thats it.

Coolant inside cylinders all over the engine is not unusual. It has been run for diagnosis for quite some time.
Take for example a dropped exhaust valve seat at 6B (the most common), and repairers report shards of this seat all over the engine. Obviously being transferred B to A by the Balance Pipe, and the rest through the Inlet Plenum arrangement.

 

One item I did forget, and talking with Greg just now reminded me.

This thing has got HOT, no doubt about it.

The transmission has also got HOT, as the "cooler" is in the radiator.

Minimum, would be a fluid change, with filter, when its out of the chassis, then suck out, via the dipstick tube, and refill with fresh fluid about 6 times within 6 months after it is back on the road.

The TH400 is tough, but overheated fluid will kill it quick time.

 

I also have a footnote - when taking pictures make sure they are good before proceeding - all too often I've failed to follow this advice only to find out come assembly time that the pictures are worse than useless - out of focus in critical places, too dark or simply not capturing what I thought they were !! - do NOT rely on the crappy little screens on the back of cameras or your phone if that's your chosen device. be meticulous around A bank especially with the vacuum pipes and electrical connections.

Make sure your hoist can handle the load at the reach you will need. A 1 ton hoist is in my opinion not up to the job on a long reach and don't even think about doing this on anything but totally flat ground.

I'll go back to stroking my own cat now ....

 

Okay, I've been following the process Grant sent me for pulling the engine (THANKS GRANT!!), but now I have a question (again!!)

Grant's process says to remove the four bolts that secure the trans mount bracket to the body. Done (see the attached pic, holes circled in yellow). It also quite explicitly says to leave the spring ALONE.

But I can't see how to remove this bracket without removing the two nuts indicated by the red arrows, and
​that seems to me like it will release the spring. Am I wrong?

I don't think I can pull the engine with that bracket on - am I wrong about that, too?

 

OK,

With those 4 bolts, frame to car body out, and the spacers retrieved, there is nothing holding it to the car body.

My only thought is that access to the prop shaft nuts may be awkward with that frame there, its been a very long time since I was under an XJS or Series car.

My memory is that they are do-able, and then lower the lot onto the skateborad, and let it wheel out as the engine is pulled.

Those bolts are the "collision bracket" fiasco, and none of mine have that stuff, but that is only trans TO frame, not to the car body.

I will make fresh coffee and keep thinking. I will ask Greg to look at his car, when he wakes up, if its on the hoist, and see if old age has caused me to make a mistake??

 

You cannot remove the propshaft bolts unless the two brackets - the one you have unbolted with the spring going through it, AND the one immediately behind and slightly above it - being removed. Note that the rear of the two has two bolts right up in the tunnel, one each side, that have to be removed, AND out back, or that bracket will catch the propshaft.

 

THANKS GREG.

Discussing this just now on the Batphone.

My HE had the prop shaft with teh splines AT the transmission end, so I simply undid the shaft at the Diff, and slid it out of the splines.

BUT

Again THANKS Greg,
His has the prop shaft with the splines AT the diff end, so which is right and/or wrong, who knows.
That is why my memory (for what it is sometimes) had me with the rear mount assembly sitting on the skate board, and the "snub" of the prop shaft was still attached to the transmission.

If your car has the prop shaft spline section AT the diff end, then that mount will need to be dismantled.

Apologies for this blunder on my part. I will Edit that write up, now that I remember.

 

Okay - I'm not under it at the moment, but all I remember seeing aft/above this bracket appears to me to be a shield that protects the shaft/tunnel from the elements Is that what has to come out in order to access the four prop shaft bolts?

 

There is another bracket, just aft of the bracket that has the spring sitting on it, to which the rear end of the spring bracket is bolted. This also has to come out to get at the propshaft bolts. The under prop heat shield is aft of this second bracket.