Thermostats anywhere?
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Thermostats anywhere?
I’m wondering if anyone can confirm any appropriate 88 degree thermostat sources?
My B bank stat wasn’t closing completely, so I went to do this simple job. An hour at most on my engine. Well, it took me all day. Mostly running around to different stores after my brand new thermostats tested too short.
This past weekend I went through 6 different brands testing for proper bypass shutoff extension and wound up having to fit a pair of Jaguar 77 degree “summer thermostats” ( source site verbiage not mine. ) that I’ve had sitting in a cabinet. They were the only stats that extended 42.5 mm or more. The others, all identified as correct for this application, were WAY too short. Some remained open 7 mm. 42.5 mm target based on depth gauge reading to the face of the shutoff. 1986 5.3 coupe.
At this point I have 0 confidence in local sources. Really hurts me at a deep level when I inform the desk tech at the parts store that this part is incorrect for this vehicle and they issue a refund with never a single thought towards doing anything about the data in their system that needs to be corrected. Ask if they have a way to report this and it’s like a strange idea. The computer says X.
Online sources have proved no better. I’ve gotten mixed temperature pairs, mixed brands, completely wrong parts. Only once, have I received two identical correct thermostats. And they are these stupid temps.
My B bank stat wasn’t closing completely, so I went to do this simple job. An hour at most on my engine. Well, it took me all day. Mostly running around to different stores after my brand new thermostats tested too short.
This past weekend I went through 6 different brands testing for proper bypass shutoff extension and wound up having to fit a pair of Jaguar 77 degree “summer thermostats” ( source site verbiage not mine. ) that I’ve had sitting in a cabinet. They were the only stats that extended 42.5 mm or more. The others, all identified as correct for this application, were WAY too short. Some remained open 7 mm. 42.5 mm target based on depth gauge reading to the face of the shutoff. 1986 5.3 coupe.
At this point I have 0 confidence in local sources. Really hurts me at a deep level when I inform the desk tech at the parts store that this part is incorrect for this vehicle and they issue a refund with never a single thought towards doing anything about the data in their system that needs to be corrected. Ask if they have a way to report this and it’s like a strange idea. The computer says X.
Online sources have proved no better. I’ve gotten mixed temperature pairs, mixed brands, completely wrong parts. Only once, have I received two identical correct thermostats. And they are these stupid temps.
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I use Stant superstats. Really well made and they work perfectly. I tested them in boiling water and they both started to open simultaneously at the correct temperature. You do have to drill a 4mm hole roughly 10mm inwards of the rim though to allow air to purge when they are closed; this just reproduces the OEM hole. they are stainless and beautifully made. The hole must be uppermost when fitting the stat.
Last edited by Greg in France; Feb 5, 2019 at 07:22 AM.
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Age old problem. Lots of vendors selling incorrect thermostats. I think the problem is partially caused by decades of transferring parts databases from one medium to another with some things being 'lost in the translation' ...and inaccurate consolidation/rationalization of part numbers.
Local suppliers, and most manufacturers, apparently don't realize that exact specification is important on some engines, including the Jag V12.
Anyhow.....
Buy Jaguar-packaged EBC3576 (82º) or EBC3577 (88º) from a Jag specialist. I got mine from Welsh or SNG Baratt or similar. It might pay to actually talk to someone at the order desk over the phone ahead of time, just to be sure.
Cheers
DD
Local suppliers, and most manufacturers, apparently don't realize that exact specification is important on some engines, including the Jag V12.
Anyhow.....
Buy Jaguar-packaged EBC3576 (82º) or EBC3577 (88º) from a Jag specialist. I got mine from Welsh or SNG Baratt or similar. It might pay to actually talk to someone at the order desk over the phone ahead of time, just to be sure.
Cheers
DD
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I use Stant superstats. Really well made and they work perfectly. I tested them in boiling water and they both started to open simultaneously at the correct temperature. You do have to drill a 4mm hole roughly 10mm inwards of the rim though to allow air to purge when they are closed; this just reproduces the OEM hole. they are stainless and beautifully made. The hole must be uppermost when fitting the stat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
greg put me onto these last year, I bought a pair and the quality was obvious. Worked out just less with shipping to the uk than the cost of inferior locally sourced parts.
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Ill look for available jag parts given the 88 degree part number.
Bought two Stants this weekend. Got to agree. Nice quality. Didn’t extend enough though. Clearly not the right Stant.
Waxstats are also well made, but again I got the wrong ones.
Thanks for the info!
Bought two Stants this weekend. Got to agree. Nice quality. Didn’t extend enough though. Clearly not the right Stant.
Waxstats are also well made, but again I got the wrong ones.
Thanks for the info!
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I use Stant superstats. Really well made and they work perfectly. I tested them in boiling water and they both started to open simultaneously at the correct temperature. You do have to drill a 4mm hole roughly 10mm inwards of the rim though to allow air to purge when they are closed; this just reproduces the OEM hole. they are stainless and beautifully made. The hole must be uppermost when fitting the stat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks
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From: France
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Laying your new gasket on the tstat makes the hole placement obvious. It should be as high as possible ( towards the rim ) without the gasket blocking it. If it’s for passing bubbles.
I added holes to my new ones, but I’m not sure these holes are so important. Heresy, I know. Some tstats have these very near center. Some don’t have them. I hear they are for bleeding air bubbles. How’s that? The fluid dynamics in a v12 are chaos. Tsats are open almost all the time. What are these really for?
Flowing a small amount of coolant through a tstat when closed makes it respond more quickly. This is not a concern in the v12 due to the bypass. I don’t see how it could be of any function at all regarding bubbles.
I added holes to my new ones, but I’m not sure these holes are so important. Heresy, I know. Some tstats have these very near center. Some don’t have them. I hear they are for bleeding air bubbles. How’s that? The fluid dynamics in a v12 are chaos. Tsats are open almost all the time. What are these really for?
Flowing a small amount of coolant through a tstat when closed makes it respond more quickly. This is not a concern in the v12 due to the bypass. I don’t see how it could be of any function at all regarding bubbles.
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JJ
I believe that the holes are there only for when the thermostats are cold and in the closed position (ie diverting the coolant round the engine and not through the rad). Under these circumstances, any trapped air in the engine side of the cooling system can bleed out into the rad and thus out via the radiator top bleed pipe system. I imagine that this hole is at its most important when the system has been refilled and there is still plenty of air tapped in the system, and also plenty of dissolved air in the new coolant. Like you though, I wonder whether it does much! But I am too wary of a disaster to try it without a hole!
I believe that the holes are there only for when the thermostats are cold and in the closed position (ie diverting the coolant round the engine and not through the rad). Under these circumstances, any trapped air in the engine side of the cooling system can bleed out into the rad and thus out via the radiator top bleed pipe system. I imagine that this hole is at its most important when the system has been refilled and there is still plenty of air tapped in the system, and also plenty of dissolved air in the new coolant. Like you though, I wonder whether it does much! But I am too wary of a disaster to try it without a hole!
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