As the Weather is starting to get very cold, I wanted to drain and then re-fill the Radiator of my XJS with Antifreeze. (XJS V12) in preparation for laying her up for the Winter.

Where I had an interesting conversation with a Garage assistant, who was giving me advice on why one type of Antifreeze, was better than another, for the V12 engine in my Car.

Up until the moment, that they suddenly found they hadn't got enough of the Type that they were recommending.

At which point I was now '3 weeks ahead' of what was coming next, as they suddenly did a 'heal turn' and said the Type they 'did' have in Stock, would 'probably be fine' (Yeah Right!)

In any event I wasn't about to buy some there and then, it was more a case of having a look to see what was available and get an idea of the price.

The only advice I ever Trust is that which is given by Members of this Forum.

So over to you guys, what Antifreeze should I use?

With regard to the Brand and Type that is widely available in the UK.

No doubt Jaguar do their own brand, but is a less expensive similar product available.

 

I would think any kind of original green conventional antifreeze would work. I use Zerex original green conventional antifreeze... Pretty sure it is available in the UK... Yearly radiator drain and fills should work well in our V12's.

 

OB
The most important thing, I believe, is to make sure you get a Glycol-based antifreeze and NOT an OAT based one. OAT means (organic acid technology, whatever that means). Look carefully at the label if you use an brand you do not know about. Colur means nothing these days, the Ford stuff I mention below is pinkyrange, but is glycol even so.

Bluecol is fine eg: Bluecol Antifreeze 2 Year 5L- Winter Car Care.

The Ford Super Plus is also good, I beleive. It lasts for years and is in my Ford Mondeo, and I top up the XJS with it. Ford Super-Plus Premium Anti-Freeze Coolant 1Ltr - Parts Shop - FordPartsUK

Antifreezes have anti-corrosion additives in them, essential in our sort of engine, and it is these that eventually wear out, not the glycol element of the mix, and that is why changing regularly is important.

Greg

 

one thing to point out

you don't put in ' anti freeze ' anymore


you have ' coolant ' that should be added in the correct volume with demineralised water ( to dilute ) and that will stay in for a time period denoted by the brand , and should be changed periodically


this coolant will protect in all weathers given our climate , from minus to plus temperatures, even when ' stood '

there is now a ' waterless coolant ' that fully replaces water based products , this will not freeze or boil in normal use ,and is ' for life ' and does not ever need changing, and can be captured and reused if you need to drain the car for working on a pump etc

its about £100 to have done, google it....


either way , do not mix coolant types, as you can end up with a sludge forming , and all coolant that is removed MUST NOT go down the drain , but be captured and disposed of at the local tip in the correct container


BB

 

'all coolant that is removed MUST NOT go down the drain , but be captured and disposed of at the local tip in the correct container'

Where they pour it down the drain!

 

Hi XJS Fan

I was also drawn towards Conventional Antifreeze but just wanted to check to be sure.

 

Hi Greg

Thanks, then Bluecol it is!

Which is a tried and trusted make, that is easily available at garages in the UK although I never realized that I would need so much!

About 10L I think

 

Thanks for that info BB but think I will go the Conventional Route and not experiment.

 

What never fails to amaze me, is how much we think alike!

 

If you are going to do a drain and fill every year or every other year, then original conventional green coolant is the way to go... Going back 40 years, I always thought it was good for 2 years or 30K miles. I also use a bottle of Redline WaterWetter during every drain and fill. It helps with corrosion and also may somewhat lower temps.

 

Thanks

John I'll bear that in mind.

 

Been using the zerex G05 which is a HOAT and not conventional. I understand that this is better for the water pump seals than the OAT.
OAT and HOAT are both long life coolant corrosion inhibits. 5 year rather than 2 year for traditional.


http://www.coolantexperts.com/coolant_overview/hybrid_coolant

 

Thanks but I've heard Exactly the Opposite! where I've been told that because OAT doesn't mix well with any existing Anti Freeze, that may be left in the engine after draining.

It can clog up and cook the Engine!

So that is a pair of dice that I won't be rolling!