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with bell mouth type modification inside, rolled ally tube and misc plated all fitted together and welded to the split open original together to form this shape.
I guess this is the explanation for the intakes? lol, ok thanks. Nothing to it! ☺️
Last edited by JayJagJay; Oct 21, 2022 at 05:38 AM.
Changed out the cam cover gaskets, added solid aluminum half moons, new intake manifold gaskets, Magnecore wires, NGK plugs, rebuilt injectors and a NOS Magneti Marelli distributor cap.
I NEVER wear baseball caps.
However, being 6'4" my hair does brush against the roof lining on my newly acquired XJS. Having seen accumulated hair oil deposits on my LR4 under similar circumstances, I decided to invest in:
Obvs bought el cheapo version off Amazon, rather than $100 version from Jaguar main dealer
@Shaneb Could you explain what was involved in modifying the right side water rail to accommodate the AC compressor relocation?
I did this in 2005, so b4 smart phones and lots of pics, so do not not remember the exact details.
this engine is from a 6l saloon so already had a thermostat housing that pointed directly forward, but was still laid over and down which would have interfered with the compressor and how I did the piping. Effectively I cut the thermostat housing off the water rail rotated it upwards and welded it back on effectively so when viewed from above the output from the thermostat is against / close to. the cam cover, think it was a fairly simple operation once you get into it.
I have attached some pics below but fairly hard to get photos. You can just see the welding on top of the water rail in the from above pic.
with the original xjs engine bay layout I am not sure what else this might interfere with around belts idler pulleys etc, or the aircleaners?.
also this will obviously not work with the standard xjs thermostat housing which points down and out at some funny angle I believe.
hope this helps.
Pic from 2005 when originally done - single pass rad setup Current pic from above welding just visible in side at base inside cam cvr Front view showing thermostat housing vertically above water rail block, if original this would be out horizontal I believe
Shaneb
Could you please explain the exact design of the single pass radiator, and how it is pumbed to the heads' outlets and pump inlet?
Also, did you fabricate that lovely stainless crosspipe yourself?
For the my old single pass radiator setup which I have since removed and reverted back to the original scheme in a way. Top cross over pipe, for btw the thermostats , mixer with rubber pipes is for the saloon thermostat housing, mixer by itself suits the xjs angled thermostat housing Inside of mixer for xjs,
the single pass system was very simply was set up as follows.
1. baffle removed from left side radiator tank,
2. Enlarged top right inlet into radiator to 50mm.
3. blanked off top left radiator inlet.
4. Removed old header tank, and added a new tank in the back cnr of engine bay higher than the radiator and engine, this is plumbed into the the radiator just above the outlet bottom left, it is teed into the heater return line. Enables gravity fill of entire system., all the old steam pipes top of radiator and thermostat housing a routed back to this header tank.
5. crossover pipe btw heads and waterpump, filler removed.
6. New stainless pipe and mixers up to redirect the flow from the left hand thermostat outlet to the new top right 50mm inlet, pictured below is two different mixers I made 1 to suit the original 5.3 l xjs right hand thermostat housing which has the pipe coming from an angle to the radiator, 1, to suit the rotated saloon thermostat housing.
7. These arrangements will only work with electric fans as they cross the front of the engine.
Thanks. Why did you remove the single pass rad? I have done something very similar with the header tank to what you describe. A HUGE improvement; but I have kept the twin pass OEM setup.
In my question I was referring to the crosspipe in this photo, not the single pass feed:
Removed the single pass radiator to tidy up the mess of additional pipe work I had created at the front of the engine, after I figured that really the single pass radiator system is a really a reaction to a poorly maintained cooling system. Was a knee jerk reaction very shortly after I got the car which had overheating issues at the time. Much happier with what have now.
I was dissatisfied with the supplied pedal pads for my manual transmission swap. While several other larger projects are stalled for one reason or another I decided to tackle this. Some welding & fab work later and I'm much happier with the pedal box now. These pedal pads are NOS Jaguar, the original packaging indicated 1986 mfr. date which coincidentally is when my car was built- extra authenticity!
While you have that lot out can you have a look at the stop light switch and tell me if there is an earth wire attached to the fixing nut/bolt please. Reason I ask is I fitted a new switch recently and my tachometer now dances around at Idle, esp. when pumping the brakes, and I wonder if I missed refitting one to the switch.
Broke my boot light the other day so looked
on ebay for a replacement. Found a few from Lithuania at
silly money and silly postage and a UK seller for £6.00 inc proving you should always look around
I spent all winter rebuilding a V12 and just dropped it into the car. It has a 5 speed swap with a Jag original Getrag 265 and some performance upgrades. It has stainless headers and exhaust as well as oversized throttle intakes. I also used a product called Cerakote ceramic coating on the pistons and combustion chambers. I am currently putting the car back together so working on it every evening. Sorting out the wiring now. I need to get the clutch pedal box installed, but before that need to replace the heater core as it was a leaaker. That should be fun. I painted the car last fall, the reason the windows are out, plus they leaked.
