I was on the interstate last week and the plastic fan blade torpedoed; when it did, one of the blades went through the radiator. I had a shop look at repairing or re-coring the radiator, but they have reported some corrosion issues along the bottom of the radiator and would rather not try to repair.

With new stock-spec radiators upwards of $1,000, I was wondering if there was a different solution out there before I have to try to come up with that kind of money. I'm already in it for a fan blade and fan clutch (damage to it as well; who knew a plastic fan blade could cause such a ruckus), plus the XJ6 in the family decided, "Hey, you're spending too much time and attention on the XJS, so boom, my A/C no longer works", meaning the budget is stretched. Radiators costing more than a grand is a little steep, IMO.

Jess

 

Sorry to hear about the exploding fan. Sadly it's quite common.

I have this in my '92 :

https://wizardcooling.com/1976-1996-...inum-radiator/

Its a direct fit. It's been great for me. I know it's still really expensive.

Another option is to try and find a used one from a wreck, but the reality is you'd be taking a chance and would probably need to get it flushed/pressure cleaned at a minimum with no guarantees it would be good at the end of the day......

 

I too have a 1992
had 3 pin holes in the top run
I guy here would re-core it but would not give me a price...


so I also did the https://wizardcooling.com/1976-1996-...inum-radiator/


I replaced the fan as some one (here on the site) noticed cracks in the FAN and they said it would do just what yours did... (THANK YOU whom ever it was)


putting the radiator in was pretty easy... but watch for holes in that pipe that goes across the top


Runs so cool now... and warms up faster...

 

ok hard to se the holes...
so paper rolled up and placed in pipe so I can epoxy pipe with High temp epoxy, also you can see the hole/s better
when done I painted the whole thing in a gold copper colour and it looks great and works great too...

 

I spent quite awhile researching this issue several months ago, and came to the conclusion that a re-core was the most cost-effective/sure-fit solution. Barring that, Summit Racing sells the Be-Cool Aluminum radiator at $650 including shipping:

Be Cool Custom-Fit Aluminum Radiators 62082 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

It has been installed by several other XJS owners successfully, along with the Wizard unit mentioned before.

At the cheapest there are aluminum radiators on eBay, but be careful there was one type of aluminum radiator for sale on eBay, which I tried and ended up returning because it can't fit due to the angle of transmission line entrance points. It looks like this:

3 Core Aluminum Racing Radiator for Jaguar XJS V12 Up to 87 Model High Capacity | eBay

However, this type might work:

3 Row Core Alloy Radiator Best for Jaguar Series 3 XJS V12 XJ12 62mm | eBay

I think it will fit, but I have no personal experience to guide you.

Good luck

 

Seeing as how I have one, I'll throw in another vote for a Wizard aluminium radiator.

 

I put in one of the Be Cool radiators a couple years ago - it seems to be a very well made unit and has performed fine for me so far...but...I think it's intended for a v8 conversion as it has only one top inlet, which requires some significant re-plumbing. I went that route as I thought it would be quicker than waiting for a recore to be done - totally wrong as far as that goes. If I had found that Wizard radiator at that time, that's the way I would have gone. It costs $50 more than the BeCool, but I spent more than that in both time or materials to make the BeCool work - a real drop in replacement would certainly have made my project a lot smoother.

 

I second the nomination...
as it is a STRAIGHT BOLT IN....

and the transmission lines everything was perfect...

and it has a DRAIN ****...

they take pride in their work and you can call them up and TALK to them in the US English... check out their whole page... they do ALL jaguars no matter the age... and other British car too.. not a better company to deal with...
should not take you 2 hours if you do not have to de-rust the shroud and repaint... or repair things like the vapor pipe...

 

How does the Wizard perform 105* ambient with Air conditioner on in traffic jam.

I was driving Interstate yesterday when came upon construction work and traffic lees than 5mph stop and go, air was not on as it does not work, I noticed heat gage going up so I made a U turn in the median got off the highway and took an old 2 lane highway to bypass the construction. The ambient temp was 65* if this had been Summer time of over 90 + degrees I would have been up the creek. Temp here reaches a 100* and higher all the time in Summer. Electric fan works as does main fan.

We have 5 other automobiles and never a problem with heat under any circumstances.

 

Is the car new to you?

It's a 26 year old car, and the cooling system *requires* routine to maintenance perform properly. Don't ignore this early warning, you need to address this.

Given your description, the likely suspects are a worn out fan clutch, and/or a radiator that needs to be R&R'd for fin cleaning and/or a radiator that needs re-coring.

However, I would recommend a full go over of the cooling system before summer comes calling.

PS - the stock radiator and fans have no problem cooling the V12, but they do require upkeep over time to keep them doing their job.

 

well it is only 76 F here now and I do not even get it to kick the electric fan on...


I have to shut it down and let it heat soak 3 time to get the fan to kick on and then if cools down with in a minute... so when it is 90 + here in the summer and the air cond is on I do not think I will have a problem...

 

I got mine late in the season so she never saw temps much higher than 80. Also, the AC doesn't work. I can tell you that I haven't had the electric fan kick on once after the Wizard radiator was installed.

Also new are an assortment of hoses and the fan clutch. Haven't had a single worry since.

 

I have owned it 5 years, PO had rad flush and R&R. Does not look to be clutch problem as it pulls lots of air over the motor with hood open.
I have also changed coolant and did the proper procedure.
Winter time at highway speed gage stays half way between C and N Summer time highway gets a hair into the N. In town Summer it will start rising into the N and have to pull over and shut it down. It has become a Winter driver only. $$ is no object in fixing it just don't know what to do, if it needs a new wizard rad that is no problem. I just want it fixed right or I will need to sell it.I can not stand a vehicle I can't drive when I want.

 

First question, do you want to work it on yourself, or do you need to take it to shop?

 

I have a shop and tools to work on it. I don't like taking anything to a dealer.

 

Great. That'll save lots of $$.

What I would recommend given the age of the car and what you reported, as well as the fact that one step leads to another is to do at least the following:

R&R the radiator, take it to radiator shop and have it re-cored (when you pull the radiator you will be shocked at how much gunk gets collected and lodged into the fins).

Since the radiator is out, you may as well replace all the hoses (full kits readily available) and might as well do the belts too.

If your fan is made of plastic that is yellow or off white, replace it with a black plastic one (also readily available) so you don't undo all your work when the fan decides to come apart and slice and dice everything in it's path.

Replace your fan clutch regardless if it works or not. They are cheap, and they will fail, so you're in there and it's easy with rad removed.

Read the entire section of the Kirby Palm book on the cooling system so you understand it, and follow his advice on using AC insulation foam to channel airflow and reduce debris pickup.

Make sure the air purge system is operating properly.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something so hopefully others will chime in.

 

I did replace I think 12 hoses the ones at firewall were @#%^$# to do.
The fan is yellow. As far as parts where do I buy from or does Autozone or such carry what I need. Again Thank you.

 

Mac
I applaud your determination to do the lot and be 100% sure everything is dead right. So I suggest also that you change the water pump and the thermostats, which as the Wizard of Oz has taught us all, often do not shut off the cross pipe properly. Quite easy to do when you are doing the rad, the fan and viscous thingy. Ensure you have 82 degree stats and that they are installed with the jiggle pin hole in the large flange at the top (12 o clock) position. Buy your parts from a specialist, eg Coventry West, David Manners, etc.
I think you are very sensible to do this as advised by various posters above, and I think you are also well advised to do it all anyway, but I am not sure what you describe is serious overheating. In the N in the summer is quite normal.
Greg

 

How far up in the n is normal ?
Last Summer I started the car went back in the house for some reason and forgot about the Jag still running, about an hour later went out and it was not running, heat gage was a little into the N so I don't know how far up it actually got but the car did die on it's own.
Are you referring to suppliers in the UK ?
Thank you again for the info.

 

Jess:


Seems as though your radiator shop doesn't want to put their name on the line by recoring yours that has a bad lower tank. Makes sense to me.


Ideas:


1. Get a used unit that is good enough to use as is. or at least with tanks that can be properly recored with a quality core. No "cheapies" considered. Try David Boger at everydayxj, On your side of the USA!!


2. Select a quality alloy radiator and twin Efans.


Carl