2007 XK Driver's Seat Belt Replacement
#1
08-12-2017, 01:56 PM
2007 XK Driver's Seat Belt Replacement
79K miles on my 2007. The driver's seat belt has been bugging me for a while because the retractor did not work very well, the belt material was getting a bit fuzzy, and was stained. I bought a replacement ($233 plus shipping) and got around to replacing it today.
I assume that everyone who is going to DIY has access to the factory repair manual, so I am going to offer just a few observations:
1. There is no need to remove the rear seatback center (which provides access to the relay/fuse panel hiding back there). Pull up on the two rear seat cushions to remove them. The leading edge of each cushion has four plastic pins holding the cushion to the vehicle floor. Then you can see two Torx screws holding the rear seatback. Remove those screws using a T30 bit, then lift the entire rear seatback up, then out after untangling from the rear seat belts.
2. The trim panel running along the bottom of the door opening needs to be removed. There is one Torx screw holding the rear of the panel, hidden by a little plastic door. Exert upwards force on that door to remove it, using a plastic trim tool to avoid causing damage to the trim panel or the door.
3. There are four Torx screws holding the left rear plastic trim which covers the speaker and the seat belt retractor. Once those screws are removed and the left rear seat belt buckle is removed, the plastic trim comes out very easily. It also has several plastic pins holding the trim.
4. Use a T50 bit to remove the Torx bolts holding the seat belt retractor and the end of the seat belt. That bit also is used to remove the left rear seat belt buckle.
5. When installing the new seat belt retractor, I found the bolt was difficult to start. I was concerned that I was crossthreading, so I backed it out and tried it again a couple of times. Finally I decided the bolt was not crossthreading, but it required more torque to get the bolt screwed in than I expected. Near the end of the process, it became easier to turn the bolt. 33 ft.-lb tightening torque.
6. There is a little two-conductor cable attached to the retractor. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to exert upwards force on the cable connector. There is no lock to disengage, but the connector needs a bit of force to remove.
I'm providing a few photos of the disassembled area. Note the Adaptive Damping Computer Module (ADCM) is marked for engineering evaluation (my car has VIN B00201). The last two photos provide the part number and the TRW label of the new seat belt retractor.
I assume that everyone who is going to DIY has access to the factory repair manual, so I am going to offer just a few observations:
1. There is no need to remove the rear seatback center (which provides access to the relay/fuse panel hiding back there). Pull up on the two rear seat cushions to remove them. The leading edge of each cushion has four plastic pins holding the cushion to the vehicle floor. Then you can see two Torx screws holding the rear seatback. Remove those screws using a T30 bit, then lift the entire rear seatback up, then out after untangling from the rear seat belts.
2. The trim panel running along the bottom of the door opening needs to be removed. There is one Torx screw holding the rear of the panel, hidden by a little plastic door. Exert upwards force on that door to remove it, using a plastic trim tool to avoid causing damage to the trim panel or the door.
3. There are four Torx screws holding the left rear plastic trim which covers the speaker and the seat belt retractor. Once those screws are removed and the left rear seat belt buckle is removed, the plastic trim comes out very easily. It also has several plastic pins holding the trim.
4. Use a T50 bit to remove the Torx bolts holding the seat belt retractor and the end of the seat belt. That bit also is used to remove the left rear seat belt buckle.
5. When installing the new seat belt retractor, I found the bolt was difficult to start. I was concerned that I was crossthreading, so I backed it out and tried it again a couple of times. Finally I decided the bolt was not crossthreading, but it required more torque to get the bolt screwed in than I expected. Near the end of the process, it became easier to turn the bolt. 33 ft.-lb tightening torque.
6. There is a little two-conductor cable attached to the retractor. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to exert upwards force on the cable connector. There is no lock to disengage, but the connector needs a bit of force to remove.
I'm providing a few photos of the disassembled area. Note the Adaptive Damping Computer Module (ADCM) is marked for engineering evaluation (my car has VIN B00201). The last two photos provide the part number and the TRW label of the new seat belt retractor.
#2
12-11-2018, 11:00 AM
Junior Member
Just wanted to say I've just done this job myself (seat belt recoil is terribly slow and feels dangerous on driver's side) and this guide was an absolute godsend.
I would never have pulled the seat out so hard to get them out of the plastic clips, and I would never have found the 4th torx screw without knowing I was still missing one.
I would also add you can do all of this, strip out the interior and then put the seatbelt back in, use the car, then change the seatbelt when it arrives really easily/quickly.
Took me about 45 minutes all in to strip out.
Thank you so so much for the guide. Really was brilliant. Ian
I would never have pulled the seat out so hard to get them out of the plastic clips, and I would never have found the 4th torx screw without knowing I was still missing one.
I would also add you can do all of this, strip out the interior and then put the seatbelt back in, use the car, then change the seatbelt when it arrives really easily/quickly.
Took me about 45 minutes all in to strip out.
Thank you so so much for the guide. Really was brilliant. Ian
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Patrick Wong (12-11-2018)
#3
03-07-2020, 10:16 AM
79K miles on my 2007. The driver's seat belt has been bugging me for a while because the retractor did not work very well, the belt material was getting a bit fuzzy, and was stained. I bought a replacement ($233 plus shipping) and got around to replacing it today.
I assume that everyone who is going to DIY has access to the factory repair manual, so I am going to offer just a few observations:
1. There is no need to remove the rear seatback center (which provides access to the relay/fuse panel hiding back there). Pull up on the two rear seat cushions to remove them. The leading edge of each cushion has four plastic pins holding the cushion to the vehicle floor. Then you can see two Torx screws holding the rear seatback. Remove those screws using a T30 bit, then lift the entire rear seatback up, then out after untangling from the rear seat belts.
2. The trim panel running along the bottom of the door opening needs to be removed. There is one Torx screw holding the rear of the panel, hidden by a little plastic door. Exert upwards force on that door to remove it, using a plastic trim tool to avoid causing damage to the trim panel or the door.
3. There are four Torx screws holding the left rear plastic trim which covers the speaker and the seat belt retractor. Once those screws are removed and the left rear seat belt buckle is removed, the plastic trim comes out very easily. It also has several plastic pins holding the trim.
4. Use a T50 bit to remove the Torx bolts holding the seat belt retractor and the end of the seat belt. That bit also is used to remove the left rear seat belt buckle.
5. When installing the new seat belt retractor, I found the bolt was difficult to start. I was concerned that I was crossthreading, so I backed it out and tried it again a couple of times. Finally I decided the bolt was not crossthreading, but it required more torque to get the bolt screwed in than I expected. Near the end of the process, it became easier to turn the bolt. 33 ft.-lb tightening torque.
6. There is a little two-conductor cable attached to the retractor. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to exert upwards force on the cable connector. There is no lock to disengage, but the connector needs a bit of force to remove.
I'm providing a few photos of the disassembled area. Note the Adaptive Damping Computer Module (ADCM) is marked for engineering evaluation (my car has VIN B00201). The last two photos provide the part number and the TRW label of the new seat belt retractor.
I assume that everyone who is going to DIY has access to the factory repair manual, so I am going to offer just a few observations:
1. There is no need to remove the rear seatback center (which provides access to the relay/fuse panel hiding back there). Pull up on the two rear seat cushions to remove them. The leading edge of each cushion has four plastic pins holding the cushion to the vehicle floor. Then you can see two Torx screws holding the rear seatback. Remove those screws using a T30 bit, then lift the entire rear seatback up, then out after untangling from the rear seat belts.
2. The trim panel running along the bottom of the door opening needs to be removed. There is one Torx screw holding the rear of the panel, hidden by a little plastic door. Exert upwards force on that door to remove it, using a plastic trim tool to avoid causing damage to the trim panel or the door.
3. There are four Torx screws holding the left rear plastic trim which covers the speaker and the seat belt retractor. Once those screws are removed and the left rear seat belt buckle is removed, the plastic trim comes out very easily. It also has several plastic pins holding the trim.
4. Use a T50 bit to remove the Torx bolts holding the seat belt retractor and the end of the seat belt. That bit also is used to remove the left rear seat belt buckle.
5. When installing the new seat belt retractor, I found the bolt was difficult to start. I was concerned that I was crossthreading, so I backed it out and tried it again a couple of times. Finally I decided the bolt was not crossthreading, but it required more torque to get the bolt screwed in than I expected. Near the end of the process, it became easier to turn the bolt. 33 ft.-lb tightening torque.
6. There is a little two-conductor cable attached to the retractor. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to exert upwards force on the cable connector. There is no lock to disengage, but the connector needs a bit of force to remove.
I'm providing a few photos of the disassembled area. Note the Adaptive Damping Computer Module (ADCM) is marked for engineering evaluation (my car has VIN B00201). The last two photos provide the part number and the TRW label of the new seat belt retractor.
On my xk (2012) the seat runner means you can't get a torx of any kind in the hole.
Did you have to loosen the seat runners or is there another trick. Im trying to replace the rear quarter cards. Everything else removes really easily but that's got me a bit stumped
#4
03-07-2020, 12:09 PM
Veteran Member
#5
03-07-2020, 12:20 PM
#6
03-08-2020, 01:39 PM
How did you remove the fabric end of the seat belt where it bolts to the lower side?
On my xk (2012) the seat runner means you can't get a torx of any kind in the hole.
Did you have to loosen the seat runners or is there another trick. Im trying to replace the rear quarter cards. Everything else removes really easily but that's got me a bit stumped
On my xk (2012) the seat runner means you can't get a torx of any kind in the hole.
Did you have to loosen the seat runners or is there another trick. Im trying to replace the rear quarter cards. Everything else removes really easily but that's got me a bit stumped
Maybe you have to remove the seat, if you already tried moving it all the way forward via the power seat control, and you do not have adequate access to that bolt. Good luck.
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