Started on the brakes today but could not find the correct pads at AutoZone or NAPA. It looks like (in the picture) that the 2009 pads that NAPA shows for the front pads, match mine (2010). They ordered them in for tomorrow so we will see. Mine look like the picture below. Anyone else run into this?

 

Here are what they both show should be my pads.


NAPAs system also asks about "with Alcon brakes".
What are Alcon brakes?

 

Alcon brakes come from the UK and was an "option" by Jaguar. The Alcon are 6 Piston and 4 Piston brake calipers and oversized. They are approximately a $5000 option on the XKR model.....2008 & 2009, not sure about 2010.

Napa should be able to look at the brake calipers and determine if they are Alcon's.

 

Doug,

The Alcon high-performance brake system included over-sized calipers and rotors and was available only on 2008 and 2009 4.2L models. Alcon brakes were discontinued starting with 5.0L (2010-up) models. Front rotors were 400mm in diameter with 6-piston calipers and rear rotors were 350mm in diameter with 4-piston calipers. Alcons are easily identified by the crescent-shaped grooves in the rotors as well as the red calipers with a raised "R" logo and "6 piston" painted in black on the front calipers. They were a $5,000 option on the 2009 Portfolio model. Here's a picture of mine with the OEM "Selena" wheel:



Stuart

 

Just put front and rear Centric Ceramic pads on from TireRack. Worked fine... Stopping is good with much less dust. These were for the 2010 XK.

 

If you have a 2010 XK not the XKR, the front brake pads ARE NOT the same as a 2009 XK. I believe the rears will be the same for both cars. Although the pads may look the same for the 2009XK and 2010XK fronts they are not. The 2010 is a slightly larger pad. I just put on Centric Posi Quiets on my 2010 fronts and Akebono Euro for the rears. You can get the Centrics for the fronts and rears if you want. Very little dust and they stop great. I will never go back to OEM semi metallic again.

 

A question on the rears. How did you retract the E-brake . Also how do you retract the pistons or are they the push/screw type or just push the pistons back into the caliper. Next is how did you reset the E-brake.

 

I had an independent shop install the pads all around. He had the tool for turning and compressing the rear pistons. I believe he used compressed air to push the pistons in. I'm not aware of the reset of the E-brake as it is working fine. I checked it after the install and everything is working as it should. Is there an actual reset and what is involved?

 

The rear pistons need to be pushed and twisted at the same time. This is the proper tool for it, which can be borrowed from Autozone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=298604_0_0_

The parking brake does have a Reset Procedure, but i have gotten away without doing the procedure in the past.

This thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...job-how-85582/ was composed by one of the fellow members Edobering and it has everything you would need (pdf for reset procedure ect).

The brake change has been coming up so often, i think Moderators should sticky it as it can save a lot of time for others. Or, one has to do a Search, which doesn't ALWAYS return the results you need.

 

No problem and thanks for the brake job post. It appears the rears and even the fronts don't seem much different from my kids Audi A4. I have a snap on piston re-tractor so that isn't a problem either. What I have not dealt with is the e-brake. I know on the newer Audi's they use the shop computer to go into the OBDII port to back off the e-brake. At the end of the procedure there is a reset done the same way. There is also a cheat way where you put voltage to the e-brake at the caliper. The e-brake has an electric motor in the caliper that extends and retracts the e-brake piston. I would assume the Jag is the same way . I haven't seen a shop manual but I bet there is something about it there.

 

It's normally done using the diagnostic system.

Alternatively, there's a pair of cables that you can use to release the parking brake:

Electric parking brake release tool 206-082.
Electric parking brake release tool link lead 206-082-01

Basically, you disconnect the parking brake module in the rear seat fusebox & connect the cable in its place, then flip a switch to release the brake. But this is supposed to be an 'emergency' procedure.

Reset:

 

Thanks for the answer. I will give up on sourcing locally and order online. Did you order your pads from someone online? I want to make sure that I get the correct pads.

 

I have that tool kit. I do not have any directions concerning how this tool rotates the piston as it is pushed in. Do you just screw it in and it automatically works to rotate the piston?

 

The short answer is yes. You can see there are different round attachments with pins in them. You match the pins with the holes in the caliper piston. You put the flat plate on the caliper and start screwing the lever end. It rotates the piston while pressing it in. That's the short explanation.

 

Yes. Just put on the right adapter on the tool and start screwing the piston back in. The only thing i don't know is if it screws in clockwise or anti clockwise.

 

RockAuto Centric PosiQuiet. I preferred to get Akebono Euro for the rears, but you can get Centric PosiQuiet front and rear. Good luck.

 

I don't remember seeing the Tech do anything after installing the rear pads yet the E Brake works fine. Is it mandatory that this recalibration to be done? When pressing the E Brake switch I hear the motors engaging the rear pads and they do hold the car.

 

As I understand it you need to retract the e-brake motors in order to turn in the pistons. This allows you to install the new pads and fit them back on the rotors. Once installed you need to reset the e-brake and this is either done through the OBDII port with a Jaguar diagnostics tool.There are other ways to do this and I assume that the cables mentioned above allow you to move the e-brake motors to the correct calibration. I assume the installer had done the calibration.

 

There is a 'normal' reset process that you have to do whenever the battery is changed/disconnected, but that's just putting your foot on the brake & setting & releasing the park brake. That allows it to set its on & off points.

I suspect the process after changing the pads may be different, but I don't know that for sure. The manual definitely talks about using the diagnostic tool to do it.

 

Got a little new information here so I don't want to give you bad info. As I understand it you do not need the tool to screw in the pistons on cars with the electronic e-brake system. As a point here these type of systems have a e-brake module which is very expensive. The procedure is using a scanner type system (usually mfg. based) that goes into car settings in various car computers. Using this system you go into different settings and retract the e-brake motors. Once this is done you can push the piston in just as you do with the front pistons. You don't need to screw them in with the special tool. Then do the brake job normally and reassemble and install the pads and caliper. When done go back into the computer and reset the e-brake. So the net here is you need to have the diagnostics tool to move the e-brake motors out and back in. The net is unless you are in business or you have the cash to buy the tool you need to take it to a dealer or a good brake shop.