I recently bought a 2010 XK convertible, which I love, but the car has been having increasing trouble starting, and now the battery appears to be completely dead. Note, it had also periodically showed the Adaptive Dynamics fault, which I suspected was due to a low battery charge from sitting in a Carvana lot before I bought it. The fault cleared after restarting and did not reappear for a month or so.

I am used to replacing my own batteries, and I have read the Battery and Charging System section in the Jaguar Workshop Manual linked in the forum, but the documentation I have read states that "On in service vehicles fitted with a Battery Monitoring System (BMS), the BMS module must be reset following the installation of a new battery. The BMS module reset procedure must be performed using an approved diagnostic system." Is there a way for a user to do this himself? What specialized equipment is required and is there any workaround to using the specialized equipment? If nothing else, can I replace the battery myself and charge it just to avoid having it towed to the service station?

Ted Bellinger
2010 Jaguar XK Convertible
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 (Sold, sadly)

 

I think it's been said that the BMS will re-adjust itself with time - no reason to get towed - just replace the battery - make sure it's fully charged.

 

If it’s the same as my ‘15 ‘vertible all I ended up doing was:
- calibrate windows…run all the way up until you hear a click. Then run all the way down until it clicks.
- all the memory positions, and clock set are lost….which is idiotic.

 

I've moved several batteries around between my 2010 and my kid's 2007. I've never in 11 years reset the BMS on my 2010 and never had any problem.

 

Has anyone seen good instructions for removing the battery? It looks like there are some brackets that need to be removed first. The top connectors are hard to see from inside the trunk. Is the battery typically removed through the trunk? Are there just the terminal connectors plus the vent tube to be disconnected? Many thanks to all.

 

I agree with everything said above. If replacing with the same composition battery it's not necessary to reset BMS. It will reset itself in due course.

But for someone like me who lives somewhere in the red zone on the pedantic gauge, it's worth considering that BMS adjusts the charging strategy to suit the condition of the battery. In the OP's case, the car will (for for a while) be using the charging strategy for a clapped out battery on a brand new one -marginally shortening the life of that battery.

If you have, for example, the inexpensive and hugely useful Autel AP200 then resetting BMS is just a button press away.

 

I recently changed my battery.

(1) remove the luggage separator by rolling the blind fully back and then rotating the whole thing upwards so it clears the guides
(2) remove the trunk floor
(3) remove the rear liner that hides the battery.
(4) replace the trunk floor
(5) remove the cross bar (four bolts, then jiggle it sideways to clear the trim)
(6) remove the two nuts on the side clamp of the battery, which also secure the battery cables with p-clips.
(7) undo the battery cables (you do not need to disconnect the BMS connector from the negative terminal) and pull them aside.
(8) undo the end clamp of the battery
(9) unlug the gas vent on the left side of the battery
(10) raise the right hand end of the battery up to clear a metal bracket you'll find in the way, then rotate it around onto the trunk floor.
(11) slide the battery down to trunk floor and remove.

 

As an extra hint, use a couple pieces of short lumber longitudinally for a raised skid. That will make it much easier to lift, slide, and remove the battery from the boot.

 

you tube is your friend…includes videos.

 

. Consider the health of your back. That battery is 70lbs! Be very careful!

 

I recently had the same issue since I bought my 2010 XKR last year, had my battery replaced when i bought it. Then the car drained the new battery to dead if left for more than few days. Got new battery few weeks ago after it was dead again. Warranty from Auto Zone covered it. Come to find out my Alternator was bad and wasn't charging the battery at all. So since have extended warranty on the car I took it into the local Jag dealer and got it replaced (Costs $2K and I payed $400 difference). So may need an alternator if you're having same issue.

 

Couple of observations:

I don't put the trunk floor back in or remove the cross bar. I find you can lift the battery up enough to go over that bar. Saves a step.

Apology in advance, but this is why I don't get the extended warranty. $2K is a ridiculous price for an alternator replacement. $400 is what it should cost if you pay for it yourself without the benefit of a warranty. I think they jack these prices way up to make you think you're getting a deal, when in reality they're just making the same profit they would otherwise. JMHO.
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You may be right - but I found removing the cross bar made it 1000 times easier to remove the nuts on the battery side bracket and move the cables out the way. I also found that dropping the trunk floor back in gave me a handy surface to work on as well as the means to slide the battery to the rear before having to pick it up...

 

Made notes of these and earlier thoughts on replacing the battery, which I’ll undertake in a few weeks. Saw my local Costco had the H8/Group 49 AGM battery back in stock (shelf was empty for a couple weeks), and the Costco guy said the prices will probably go up in September, as that’s when they renegotiate their contract with the supplier for the coming year.
Last time (7 years ago), I had PepBoys do a free install, but now I see the battery with ‘free’ install at local auto parts stores costs $100 over the Costco price. So this old man with a bad back will gingerly undertake his own installation with the advice here, and a few ideas of my own.