Hi everyone,

with the 2007 XK in the garage (in another country) I'm looking for a new kitten.. and have found a 70.000km, 2010, black XK-R model.. test driving tomorrow, any things I should look at?

Does the aircon/footwell problem still exist in the 2010 model? dipped headlights, pedestrian sensors? etc etc..

What to look for, thats going to cost me big time if it is faulty>?

 

Get the maintenance records if you can.
Check if the water pump has been replaced.
Listen for rattle of (stretched) timing chain on cold start-up.
Check for failing around rear glass window.

 

Checkout the Pistonheads buying guide.

Jaguar XK/XKR (X150): PH Buying Guide | PistonHeads

 

Aircon leak into footwell is gone on the 5.0s. As JagRag says, listen for chain rattle on cold startup (indicates a failed ratchet in the hydraulic tensioner), and for an irregular rattling like marbles in a can when idling (indicates worn supercharger torsion isolator) - those aren't common faults, though. Also, have a good sniff for leaking coolant when it's up to temp, as that's an indication of the water pump being on its way out.

Edit: By the way, don't get the idea that the 5.0 is riddled with faults. People come on forums to ask about problems, so you get exposed to a lot of talk about issues that most of us will never see. Mine has had no real problems except routine wear & tear (suspension bushes, discs & pads) in 3 years of ownership, including some hard driving.

 

Look out for the adaptive headlamps throwing up warnings, but you'd need the codes read for that. It happened on mine and needed the modules replaced.

Also when you are opening each door see if there is a different "feel" to it unlatching. I had that happening on the driver's door and it got stuck once or twice - I dont know if it was leading to something but my work partner had it on his audi A5 (along with 20 other major disasters, what a shitbox) and it was a $1200 fix.

Aside from that my car (62,000km when I traded it) was showing nothing ominous so I dont think that the mileage would be a problem of itself.

 

Not true. I had the problem on my 2007 XK (just after it was out of warranty) and then the same thing reoccurred on my 2010 XKR (VIN 36400+) so the dipsticks at Product Engineering at Jaguar managed to replace bad with bad.

The only difference is that on the XKR there is more plumbing in the 'V' of the motor which prevents getting an inspection camera down there between the transmission and the tunnel to prod the duckbill and free it up.

 

After you acquire your new to you 10 XKR you will not be satisfied with your 07 XK any more. Other than that go for it!! Plus, you should be aware of what your other respondents mentioned.

 

2010 XKR owner here.
I would say that I've dealt with a few issues that were ironed out on later model years. What I've had fixed:
- A/C "high pitched whine" that sounds like it's from behind the instrument cluster. You'll notice it on hot days when you accelerate. It's a $200 fix but it solves it completely.
- I've also had the AC/Duckbill drain issue. Dealer fixed it ($600). So far, so good.
- bushings!
- when you test drive-- TAKE HARD TURNS FROM A STOP. as if you're taking a left across traffic, AND a right merging into traffic. It has to be from a dead stop. Check for a rear-end "shudder" feeling (you won't feel it in the steering wheel). This was the first year of the e-differential and this is sometimes an issue.

But none of this means I don't love my 2010. Go for it!

 

Oh and yeah I get the adaptive headlight warning light every now and then. I punch each light hard (for real) and stop and restart the car once or twice and it goes away. Totally ghetto but it works.
I've got a terrific aftermarket warranty any the rep at the warranty company (nice guy) says no warranty company will replace "intermittent" issues, so don't even bring it up until it happens all the time, and then they'll pay for the fix. I don't even think about it until those occasions that it happens.

 

Same for me! Maybe about twice a year. I don't "punch each light hard", but I do give 'em a few good raps.

 

Damn - OK, well, I guess it isn't cured, but the level of occurrence has diminished greatly. The car needs some sort of valve to stop creepy crawlies from taking up residence in your a/c, but as soon as there is an open/close device of any kind, there's a chance that it will stick in one position. in the 5.0 model, they took away most of the duckbill, but there still has to be a contact surface for it to work and I guess your experience proves the two halves can still get stuck.