Agghhh... what a horrible job. Put everything back together and left that little pipe right until the end. The new pump I got has a slightly different connector from the black plastic collar version shown above, it's got some kind of really small metal ring. I pushed the pipe in as far as it would go but it was sticking out too far compared to the when in the old pump. So I thought it hadn't seated correctly so took almost an hour to try and take it back out again, the release clip on the new pump just would not let go. Eventually I just pulled the whole lot out and the gripper ring came out with the pipe.

****, ****, ****.

At least I could now check the pipe was going in deep enough, and it was, I needn't have dicked around with it and should have just left it sticking out a bit further than on the old pump.

Took another half hour to work out how to jam the gripper ring and pipe in together and managed to scratch the pipe end whilst doing it. So although the pipe is now in place, and being held in place, I fully expect it to seep and drip when I refill the car tomorrow and get it up to temp.

What a PITA!

Oh well, fingers crossed, it might not leak, maybe I'm just being overly pessimistic. LOL

 

Oops! That's a shame Piersman. I was tempted to buy a pattern pump but in the end went with a genuine Jag one which came with a new plastic pipe.
I hope yours doesn't leak. Good luck.

 

When I **** up, I'm happy to admit it. Well, not happy, but willing .

I googled 6mm connectors earlier today with a view to buying something to replace what I'd done assuming that it would leak.

After looking at several images of differing connectors I had a moment of revelation, a true moment of 'Oh my god I can't believe I've been so stupid'.

When I looked at the new connector during fitting, for some reason I'd assumed the blue plastic bit was some kind of protective dust cap... and had removed it... it didn't some out easily.

I realised as I perused the google images that the blue 'dust cap' I had removed wasn't a cap, but the collar piece. . So no wonder the bloody pipe didn't fit well, deep enough and wobbled around.. I'd yanked out the collar from the fitting.

Luckily I had some spare 6mm pushfit fittings laying around that used the same collar and grip system so managed to fix the connector up, with a short piece of new pipe and then used a short length of fuel line to join to the scratched coolant pipe connector.

All's well that ends well, but really I could have smacked myself in the face when I twigged what I'd done and that several wasted hours of time and frustration were absolutely the fault of my own stupidity.

 

If I smacked myself on the same side of my head every time I **** up, my head would look like a 'D'.
Congrats on the find and fix!

 

Oops!!!

BIG OOPS!!!!!

We all do silly things sometime. Well done for owning up.

 

hello there, have you come to an answer for that occasional deep knock sound? i'm wondering about same thing on 2010 xf supercharged. it's not always and does seem to be when first started with warm engine such as after refueling. i hesitate to call it a knock because it's almost a rotational "lope" of the engine. but it goes away with any slight throttle pedal pressure and it does not present itself at any time of that occasionally at idle. i agree that it sounds like from bottom of driver's side engine.

 

Hey Adam, no I haven't had a chance to have it looked at further - got busy with a work project. The knocking sound is definitely there even after the supercharger was updated. Now that work is quieting down a bit I may make an appointment to have it looked at again at the dealer. Allan

 

Hello

Been reading this with interest and doing other research.

Mine isn't noisy yet but when I had the water pump replaced there was a little play in the pulley (could be rotated 10 degrees or so before engaging).

Going to order the solid coupler from America but is it worth doing the snout bearings at the same time or is that overkill?

Also where do you get the oil and gaskets?

Thanks in advance

 

 

ah hi. I've just messaged you about buying 2 kits. (my friends need doing ... much worse than mine)

 

Does anyone have any feedback on the solid isolator? I bought one a few months ago but have also managed to persuade my warranty company to supply a new snout as per the TSB so I am wondering whether to stick with the stock one or go solid when it is fixed.

 

One quick question. Do you need to lift the SC out with the inlet manifolds attached. There is a bolt you cant access from the top I think that connects the manifolds to the SC

 

If I recall correctly, when you take out the S/C , it all comes out as a unit with both inlet manifolds attached... and a bracket on the back of it where there's a bolt you just can't get to with the unit in the car.

I only recall the bracket because it was only when re-assembling that I realised I just couldn't get that 1 bolt in to re-attach the bracket with the unit in the car. I had to take it back out, attach the bracket with the 3 bolts , and then plop it back down again.

 

Where did you buy your new isolator from? is there a part number and is this for the 2010 MY XKR? Thanks.

 

hey all, i can vouch for this guy @ quality superchargers - i sent my entire s/c to him for the full rebuilt job and he put smaller pulley on, changed oil, bearings, isolator with solid one and reassembled

 

Please let me know if the isolator can be replaced by only servicing the snout and not removing the complete supercharger. My car is going in to the dealer for an isolator replacement. Should I use your solid isolator? If they need to remove the supercharger I should probably have the cooler hose, from/rear cooler manifold replaced also as they are problem parts. I have a 2014 XKR. Maybe even replace all of the water hoeses and belts too since the car is 6-7 years old. I don't have much time to decide because the isolator is being replaced through CPO warranty and the car is going back when the parts arrive. I'll like to have a good argument to replace the isolator with the solid one as well as a good argument for the other work while the top of the engine is accessible.