Got in the car the other day and 3 errors showed up on the dash:

1) ABS FAULT
2) DCS NOT AVAILABLE
3) CRUISE NOT AVAILABLE

See pics below.

Any thoughts? I put in a new battery about 6 weeks ago so it shouldn't be the battery. Any help is appreciated.

Ken

 

New battery doesn't necessarily mean good battery condition, I've had 3 x faulty new ones in my 39yrs of driving.

So questions are:

1) Have you load tested the battery?
2) Do/have you use(d) a charger.maintainer on it?
3) Have you had any electrical work done recently?
4) Spec of new battery?

 

TEST THE BATTERY! New battery 6 weeks ago means little. Also try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting. There's dozens of threads on the subject of battery issues and MILs.

 

Exactly what jahummer says. It's the battery. Guaranteed.

 

Could there be something wrong in the car that is causing the battery from not being charged properly when driving? I have been driving the car a lot.

I don't have a tester, but I just put the battery on the charger and I see what its like tomorrow.

Thanks,

Ken

 

With the ignition in the OFF position, use a voltmeter to check the voltage across the battery terminals. If you've charged the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours, the voltage should be 12.6 volts or more. If not, the battery is suspect and should be replaced regardless of its age.

 

If the battery checks out ok, the next suspect would be the alternator.

 

If the battery cannot supply 12.6 v and 800 cold cranking amps, it is either undercharged or done. With a depleted battery, many systems cannot activate as there is not enough voltage and or current to go around. Beyond the common error or ABS and parking brake issues.
(I also suspect your centre console screen may not illuminate immediately following starting the engine. It should.)
As for the alternator, I don’t have the specs in front of me but if I recall correctly it should output nearly 14.3 v and nearly 300 amps.
If these systems are accurate. then clear then recheck the codes.

Or connect a BIG charger. Let it sit for an hour or 2, leave it connected, clear codes, start engine, recheck codes.

 

Have you checked the ABS sensors? Most auto parts stores will run a scan for you. I had similar messages when one of my sensors was bad. Oddly enough, my alternator and battery went south about a week later, but I dont think they were related.

 

Get your codes read, I had same lights, it was because my front right abs sensor was bad

 

Also, very easy fix and inexpensive part. One small bolt and electrical connector. Good opportunity to clean things up around hub and brakes also. Compressed air and brake cleaner.

 

I have not checked the ABS sensors. I will have it checked out. Thanks all.

Ken

 

I brought the car in to a local service center to have the ABS sensors check and they are all good. I have had the car on the charger for over 24 hours and no change in the error codes. I spoke to my local Jaguar specialist and he thinks it may be a "low voltage" problem. I have an appointment for next week.

We will see how it goes.

Ken

 

Low voltage IS likely in these scenarios. Did you get the battery load tested?

EDIT: Should have added, once confirmed the battery passes a load test, did you also reset the vehicle by disconnecting the battery cables and touching them together? The codes won’t go away on their own at least not immediately. But again this is all predicated the battery, regardless of age, passes a load test.

 

What is voltage at battery when car is running and not running? Simple multimeter voltage test at battery should provide a clue. Battery, alternator, wiring. Just need to narrow down by process of elimination.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a voltage tester. I will let the group know what happens when I bring it in.

Ken

 

Proper load test first. If it passes, then test alternator. If the alternator passes, then check for bad grounds. But again clear out all the errors first.

 

Almost all auto parts stores have battery testers on site and they will test her battery for free and the alternator as well.

 

While it is true that low battery voltage is most often the cause of electrical issues on these cars, given the 3 interrelated issues (ABS, traction control and cruise), another very likely cause is a faulty ABS module. I recently had exactly this issue (with the same 3 disabled) in my XJR. The cause? The ABS module was faulty -a very common problem across all makes. Once repaired, no warning lights, no issues.

 

I brought my car to a Jag dealer to see if they could activate my rear camera...... they couldn't. They did try for about 45 minutes though.
I got my car back, it had:
1) ABS FAULT
2) DCS NOT AVAILABLE
3) CRUISE NOT AVAILABLE
I got pissed, dude said he'd happily replace the battery for $400. hahahahahaaaaaa
I drove home about 50 miles, and that trip charged the battery enough and the lights were gone when I powered it back up.
They never came back.
Dumbass guys probably didn't have the Power Supply hooked up while they were playing in SDD and it drained my battery enough to get all those random fault codes and such.