The instructions are very detailed, a video isn’t needed to see how it’s done. But it might help someone on the fence about purchasing, to see that they can do it too.

 

I can highly recommend the Jag Wrangler remote top product! Works great and definitely enhances the cool factor. It's not that hard to do but does generate some trepidation when it comes time to cut a wire to tap in, and a video could be reassuring to the faint of heart.

 

As always with new things, I'll do a mock walk through. If at any point, given the instructions, I find myself scratching my head or in doubt, those are the parts I will video.
If at the end of a successful install I think they may help anyone, I will certainly publish them on Youtube.

 

The hardest part was maneuvering my aged portly body in and out of the back seat with the roof in place !

 

Fortunately, most of the work can be done with the roof down.

 

You mean the rear seat and metal cover removal. Basically everything up to disconnecting the battery?

 

Yes. One could, if they were clever enough to think about it beforehand, install a battery disconnect switch (or other means to cut power with the top open), then even the wiring steps could be completed with the top down (I wasn’t clever enough to think about it at the time ).

 

Probably worthy of a new thread, I did a search and only one thread on battery disconnect switches that ended up being more about AGM batteries.

Was thinking of installing a remote (location) battery disconnect behind the plastic louvered left hand side where my CTEK is hard wired. Not really sure how often I'd use it. For now it would be a labor of love just for installing the remote top/window upgrade. But it would be really nice to not have to disassemble the trunk every time I do a repair/upgrade that requires disconnecting the battery.

Has anyone done this?

 

I have been talking to a company local to me in East Anglia and they are recommending a unit from Integrated Automative. The model is IMI 1000 and the manufacturer has confirmed it’s compatible with my car. It offers car play with the option to add cameras and has a USB charger. It sounds perfect.

Has anyone had any experience with this unit ?

thanks

 

I would email Integrated Automotive.
Their site lists 2012 and newer but says the screen has to have the "White Outline" interface.
https://integratedautomotive.co.uk/p...o-upgrade-kit/
They list all of the models and XK isn't one of them.

 

I have spoken to Integrated Automotive and they have confirmed it’s compatible.

I just wanted to know if anyone has used this unit and has anything to say about it.

 

I think you'll be the first, at least around these forums. May want to do a search on the primarily UK forum as that is where the company seems to be based.
Let us know how it goes!

 

Ok, so I’m working on the Mr12volt kit and I get to the part where you are removing boards to add the new video board. When I tried to disconnect the power cable on board 1 or board 2 the connector fell apart , and part of the connector remains in the socket on each board. I can’t seem to remove the bits of the connector so I can plug in the new power connector.




anybody DY got any suggestions? Thanks!

 

Just for clarity's sake, this is where I am stuck. Unfortunately, when my power cable connector crumbled the side and bottom are still stuck in the socket. I have tried to clean it out with an exacto knife, tiny screwdrivers and tweezers, but so far no luck. I quit in hopes I could get some help before I permanently ruin the socket and have to get another OEM screen unit. Could the connector be locked in some way?

While the install video for Mr.12Volt is great, and there's no problem with the kit, the video runs kinda fast through some areas like this that really need more amplification so they can be successfully done.

 

I would try nibbling the broken pieces with a pair of side cutters preferably a small pair, a small pair of needle nose pliers might help too.

 

Wonder if a tiny dab of glue to attach something to the broken part would give you the leverage to pull it out.

 

I finally got it. Had to get a pair of incredibly thin needle nose pliers and it eventually worked!

Thanks for everyone's help once again!

 

Well, this time I think I’m toast. When tightening the standees for the new board the pliers grazed a capacitor labeled 101 and it disintegrated. Does anyone know the value of it?



Edited to add:
Might be a coil instead of a capacitor. It's still hooked into both solder points, its just the plastic casing that fell apart.

Here it is from the installation video (sorry for the low resolution.):

 

I'm sourcing a replacement screen assembly in case this is shot. Would a donor screen from a 2007-2009 XK yield a board usable in the 2010 display?

 

Reach out to SeanW. He can help you…