Hi everyone,

I was wondering if the below mentioned charger would be suitable for my XK when doing SDD programming.. and regular battery charging..

LBOYLOVEŽ 20 Amp Car Battery Charger, 12V/24V Trickle Charger, LiFePO4 Lead Acid Fully Automatic Battery Maintainer with Battery Repair & Winter Mode for AGM, STD, Gel, Deep Cycle Batteries

• 【Upgraded 20A Battery Charger Suitable for LiFePO4 Lead-acid】: 12V 20 Amp, 24V 10Amp 7-stage quick battery charger, Designed to charge, maintain and repair all 12-volt and 24-volt lead-acid automotive, LiFePO4, marine and deep-cycle batteries including AGM, GEL, EFB, SLA, Flooded (WET), Calcium in cars, truck, SUVs, ATV, motorcycle, snowmobile, lawn mower, boat, tractor, forklift, golf cart, etc. which is much faster than 10A or 6A automatic chargers
• 【High-efficiency Pulse Repair/Trickle Charge】: Built-in battery repair mode to help recover old/idle batteries and extend battery life. If the battery cannot be charged, please use repair mode. Automatically enters trickle/float charging mode after fully charged, keeps maintaining your batteries during this winter and more. Leaves batteries for holiday months and is still brand new when you are back. Note: It can not repair a dead battery
• 【Brighter Screen Visualized Charging & Winter Mode】: Extra large LCD screen not only clear to see under the sunlight but also displays the charging and battery status; charge voltage and current, inside temperature, charge percentage, summer mode, winter mode, etc. Winter Mode, +0.2V on the basis of the original charging voltage, better boosts your battery activity and charges more thoroughly in low-temperature situations
• 【Overall Charging Protections】: AC input: 100-240V 50/60Hz, input power with load: max 300W, applicable battery's voltage: 12V/24V, output current: max 20A/10A. This portable car battery charger has overcharge protection, over current protection, a built-in cooling fan, overheating protection, reverse polarity protection, short circuit protection, sparks-free contact, etc., ensuring a safe and efficient charging process while extending your vehicle's battery life
• 【Foldable & Portable Design】: The top portable handle design and bottom bracket of the charger can be folded and are easy to carry, store, and use. The unique design on the back of the charger allows you to wrap and store the messy power cord, and the clips on both sides can also be clamped so that your charger is no longer dirty

 

Jaguar recommends a 40-amp power. While using SDD on my 2010, a draw indicator shows 34 amps.

 

34 Amps with the engine off? What is drawing all that current?

 

Every module and whatever else that is on while running. Add stereo, TSD, seat and wheel heaters, lights, wipers, fuel pump, ignition, blinkers, A/C and fan, engine fans......... You're WAY up there.

 

Say, did you ever get your backup camera to work? I would really like a backup camera.

 

this looks like it will do anything except SDD. You want low noise low ripple voltage maintained @ 13+ Volts when using SDD. It goes through a lot of checks as @Cee Jay mentions. You want a bench power supply. I understand no one wants to spend money on these but this one is pretty affordable. Also I've attached Jaguars power supply bulletin.

 

@Parzival look for something referred to as "bench power supply" - vs car charger or battery charger for SDD.

 

ah - so we just have to maintain voltage (thats why we need 50amps) not actually charging the battery at all.. - ordered the one you mentioned.. lets see ...

 

Wouldn't a 30A power supply pop a normal household 20A breaker?

 

Big difference between 30A @ 12V and 30A @ 120V.

 

Ah, good call. I didn't consider the voltage.

 

Would something like this work for SDD?

 

Maintaining voltage during use of SDD is critical. Before initiating programming in SDD, a window like this will pop up telling you SDD will abort if the required voltage is not maintained. When modules are being updated by the configuration files, vehicle exterior lights are flashing, fans are cycling, infotainment system is turning on and off, and the instruments are doing things - all for minutes or longer. It's a bit of a nail biter and you certainly don't want to have SDD abort during this.Here's a Jaguar Service Bulletin stating a 55A power supply is required when performing software downloads. It was interesting to see Sean W's post above with the bulletin requiring only 25A power supplies for the 4.2 liter X150s.Used Iota DLS series power supplies are readily available on eBay. And other comparable brands are also available. After realizing my "smart charger" was not sufficient for SDD (supported by picture above), I purchased a used Iota DLS-75 and added a voltmeter so voltage can be monitored before and during programming. One benefit of the Iota power supply is their IQ4 controller (about $21) can be plugged in to the RJ11 jack in its case when you want to use it as a powerful smart charger/maintainer.The Iota's output voltage can be adjusted. For this, a potentiometer (POT) is just behind a small slotted-rubber-covered hole in its case. The POT can be adjusted by putting a very small screwdriver through the hole and - just barely - turning it. It needs such a fine adjustment that it is almost difficult to get it on the desired voltage. Also, don't push on the POT as it is simply held upright by its soldered leads on the circuit board so it can bend over very easily.
Proper wire gauge and length are also important for the cables between the power supply and vehicle. A set of jumper cables with one end cut off works nicely for this. I initially used too long of cables and could not maintain enough voltage, so I cut the cables off to the maximum length recommended by Iota. Now it all works fine. Here's a bulletin on Iota's recommended wire gauge and length for their range of power supply ratings.Also be sure to check the circuit breaker rating on the outlet powering your power supply as you don't want to trip the breaker when SDD is drawing more power. The Iota DLS-75 requires up to 20A and has a 20A T-blade plug. My garage outlets are protected by a 20A breaker but the outlets do not have the slightly different T-blade 20A receptacle so I purchased a 20A female to 15A male plug adapter. Iota's 55A and below power supplies only require 15A outlets.

 

and you connected it straight onto the battery with jumper cable clamps?

 

You can do that with your 2007, but not your 2013 (from your profile). The 2013 has a BMS that needs to be respected. Someone with a 5.0 can jump in with the correct connection procedure.

 

The positive can go directly to the battery, the negative from the charger needs to go to chassis ground. Remember, those ground points are not so straightforward to locate since bonded aluminum stuff.

 

Parzival, I connect + to the jump start post inside the back left side of the boot and - to one of the studs left of the spare tire. Much easier than getting access to the battery itself.

 

Actually, the stud to the RIGHT of the spare tire is the correct stud. The other one is painted, coated or otherwise electrically resisted. The right one is bare and connects directly to the chassis ground/earth field. A somewhat problematic location for a permanent solution though.

 

Cee Jay, the stud to the left of my spare tire is bare, threaded, and I have my CTEK battery maintainer permanently attached to it. It's also the stud the Owner's Manual says to use for jump starting the car. I haven't had any problems using it as the negative stud for jumping, maintaining, or supporting the battery while using SDD.

 

Well, huh. That lug on mine is coated with silver paint of some kind and won't ohm to ground at all. My right one is bare of coating and ohms dead to ground.
Weird. I guess it just depends on stuff.