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After doing a search for lug nut replacements I see that there were recommendations for the Gorilla brand #73138J chrome lug nuts. SFX Performance has them available priced at $109.69 for twenty. Do these seem to be a good replacement for the OEM? My Portfolio did not have a tool kit ( among other things) and it appears that the OEM lug nuts are 19mm. Sound correct? I am putting together a tool kit piece by piece in order to have one less thing to worry about! I'm open to suggestions. Thanks in advance.
After doing a search for lug nut replacements I see that there were recommendations for the Gorilla brand #73138J chrome lug nuts. SFX Performance has them available priced at $109.69 for twenty. Do these seem to be a good replacement for the OEM? My Portfolio did not have a tool kit ( among other things) and it appears that the OEM lug nuts are 19mm. Sound correct? I am putting together a tool kit piece by piece in order to have one less thing to worry about! I'm open to suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Yep they are the correct ones for all modern Jags and they are 19 mm hex head, same as OEM.
I fitted the black chrome version (73138JBC) to my F-Type some four years ago now and have had zero problems with them.
Being solid one piece they won't rust or swell or break like the OEM two piece are notorious for.
Thanks. I did read that there was a very slight difference in the "shoulder" measurement of the Toyota lug nuts, but no issues in use? What exactly do I look for with the Toyota lug nuts...Part #, etc?
M12x1.5 thread with mag style seat. Go to the gorilla web site for more info on dimensions.
Amazon keeps insisting my 2008 XKR should have acorn seats but that is incorrect.
OH! There is one caveat with using Toyota nuts...... on one certain type of wheel design, the Toyota mag seat is .5mm too long, and it bottoms out against the flange before the wheel is snugged down. A slight grind of the back end of the lug end is required, but only on that certain wheel style.
I can't remember which wheel it is though.
OH! There is one caveat with using Toyota nuts...... on one certain type of wheel design, the Toyota mag seat is .5mm too long, and it bottoms out against the flange before the wheel is snugged down. A slight grind of the back end of the lug end is required, but only on that certain wheel style.
I can't remember which wheel it is though.
OH! There is one caveat with using Toyota nuts...... on one certain type of wheel design, the Toyota mag seat is .5mm too long, and it bottoms out against the flange before the wheel is snugged down. A slight grind of the back end of the lug end is required, but only on that certain wheel style.
I can't remember which wheel it is though.
The Gorilla web site shows the seat base to the beginning of the threaded lug bottom length is 0.06 inch longer on the Toyota lug nut vs the Jaguar lug nut.
This thread is an example of how beneficial this forum has been for me. After ordering a replacement wheel nut (OEM) for the third time I was frustrated with the two part nuts. The Gorilla nuts for Jaguar with 19mm hex head are the way to go!!!
CeeJay -- you wouldn't have happened to remember which wheel is the caveat ? I'm thinking of replacing my oem's , but want to be sure before being that 'one off' lol
Last edited by myexcursion; Feb 9, 2023 at 02:13 PM.
Reason: forgot to quote
CeeJay -- you wouldn't have happened to remember which wheel is the caveat ? I'm thinking of replacing my oem's , but want to be sure before being that 'one off' lol
I seriously cannot remember, but for some reason SENTA keeps entering my brain.
I seriously cannot remember, but for some reason SENTA keeps entering my brain.
Argh, now my brain is telling me to out to the garage and take a nut off my Lexus and see if fits properly on my Sentas, but my **** is sitting so comfortably in my Lazy Boy…
Oh, and lose that cheap Jaguar provided lug wrench; low-quality pressing you won't want to deal with on a rainy night by the side of the road. A decent long socket on a breaker bar will serve you better. And have the nuts torqued properly, instead of discovering - on that rainy night - that the dealer used an impact gun to tighten the nuts so that God Himself couldn't get them loose.
Oh, and lose that cheap Jaguar provided lug wrench; low-quality pressing you won't want to deal with on a rainy night by the side of the road. A decent long socket on a breaker bar will serve you better. And have the nuts torqued properly, instead of discovering - on that rainy night - that the dealer used an impact gun to tighten the nuts so that God Himself couldn't get them loose.
Yeah, this. I have a Snap-On deep socket and a cheaper but still accurate torque wrench in my boot with the proper torque marked on the box.
Oh, and lose that cheap Jaguar provided lug wrench; low-quality pressing you won't want to deal with on a rainy night by the side of the road. A decent long socket on a breaker bar will serve you better. And have the nuts torqued properly, instead of discovering - on that rainy night - that the dealer used an impact gun to tighten the nuts so that God Himself couldn't get them loose.
I usually remove and refit my own wheels and take the loose wheels to the tyre fitters to ensure that the fitter never gets anywhere near the nuts, However, a couple of months ago I needed new tyres on the truck which I use to transport the wheels so, against my better judgement, I decided to let the tyre fitter fit the wheels. When he torqued up the first one he used a long torque wrench rather than an air gun which I thought was encouraging. However, after the wrench clicked he then gave it another hefty crank passed the torque point. I asked him why he was doing that as it seemed to negate the point of using a torque wrench at all. He replied that the extra crank was "Just to make sure that the nuts are really tight". I asked him to do all the rest of the nuts just to the torque point and I checked them all again when I got home! 🙄