My coolant leaks out within minutes coming from the bottom area of the water pump.

I'm trying to determine if this is my crossover pipe
Or coming from the water pump.
I grabbed my waterpump pully there is no play,

Im about to remove my intake manifold,
but before I do so, is there a way if testing whether leaks coming from?

 

Gave the waterpump a hard shake it does move a very slightly, also upon initially startup there was a kind of slicing noice for the first few seconds, is that waterpump?

 

It is possible that the water pump bearing has gone out based on what I guess you mean by a "slicing" noise upon engine startup. Yes, a bad bearing can make noise on startup then quiet down after it gets spinning. You can try to wiggle the pulley by hand, but if you haven't removed the belt, you won't get any movement because its under too much pressure from the tensioner. Take the belt loose and then try to wiggle the pulley. But even if the bearing seems tight, the seal behind the bearing can still be leaking and it just hasn't worn out the bearing yet. If the belt is merely wet, then it can slip a little upon startup and fool you into thinking its a bearing. Check to see if there is any drip from the pulley itself. If you touch your finger to the back side of the pulley at the bottom and its wet, then it has very likely leaked at the shaft seal. The only other way the back side of the pulley would get wet is if its leaking bad enough from somewhere else to actually spray, either that or you've recently driven aggressively enough to slosh some coolant around. But more likely a sign that the shaft seal is leaking.

Another thing to look for is if the valley between the cylinder heads is full of coolant, its either the seals on the oil cooler tube or the crossover pipe. There's two very odd-shaped seals in either end of that oil cooler tube and either one can fail. If the cooling system overpressurizes, then those odd-shaped seals, if they are old, can sort of roll over on themselves and never return to the right shape. The crossover can split along a seam, but more commonly, the PA66 nylon material literally dissolves in the hot coolant and eventually the tiny groove that the o-rings seat in is worn away. They're right next to each other so the only way I can think to check which would be to use a cooling system pressure test kit. Pump it up and inspect to see which one its coming from. Now one caveat, is that if the water pump is on its way out, then the engine can get hotter than normal and overstress those old components, making them also leak and fill the valley with coolant. If you determine that you need to replace either the crossover tube or the oil cooler tube, then you should go ahead with a new pump while your in that far whether it appears to be leakign or not just to be safe.

 

Changing the crossover pipe, which was dated 2015

Thank you for the reply, you were right!!

Crossover pipe, was split and only 5 years old

 

This video details how to change the waterpump, best video ive seen!!

 

I'm having the same issue, I've put the new pump on 10 times now and it continues to be a leak from behind at the bottom of the pump QUOTE=tarokyama;2374020]My coolant leaks out within minutes coming from the bottom area of the water pump.

I'm trying to determine if this is my crossover pipe
Or coming from the water pump.
I grabbed my waterpump pully there is no play,

Im about to remove my intake manifold,
but before I do so, is there a way if testing whether leaks coming from?[/QUOTE]

 

It indeed was the crossover pipe.
I highly recommend doing the crossover pipe
and waterpump and small connecting pipe all
at the same time, its easy with the intake manifold off.
i would also upgrade to a aluminum connecting pipe


And while you're in there upgrade your waterpump drain pipe to metal as well


THE ORING GOES ON THE WATERPUMP SIDE
AROUND THE BRASS TUBE.(there are no instructions)

 

Might be time to change the intake manifold gaskets also.

This is advice i wish someone gave me,
so i didnt have to keep removing my intake manifold..

 

It's whatever it is behind the blk plastic connector line part. That's were it must be leaking at

 

That plastic connector is prone to failure and or its gaskets, I'd upgrade to metal one I previously posted

 

I would assume anytime you go through the trouble of removing the intake manifold you would absolutely replace all 8 manifold gaskets. Why take any chance of a vacuum leak after all that work!