i like everything about this after alignment BUT the toe setting. Its in the middle and when driving down the road the road force will push out on the tires toeing them out. Why i talk so much about a pressor bar. Aka mercedes alignment. When you are in the middle on the alignment machine, you will be toed out while driving. And this is exactly why i toe in past the middle and then press out on the tires to see where they go(always right to the middle giving the most even wear) Remember you drive on the road not the alignment machine.

also a spring with a different spring rate will lower ride height and increase negative camber as will a collapsed spring isolator(foam part) spring rides under. Im assuming these were changed. The other thing to look at is the subframe in relation to the underbody. I have seen subframes kicked over in the under body mounts and this gives less camber on 1 side and more on the other. You should see no telltale marks where the subframe bolts mounts meet the body that would indicate shift usually from a hard curb/pothole impact. If so loosen the bolts and pry back in place, tighten bolts and get another alignment. There is no camber adjustment in the rear only toe and this only very slightly affect camber. Nothing close to what youre looking to change.
I know your spring are new but that does not meen theyre evenly rated either from manufacture or oops wrong part in the box, see this every now a then. Update us

 

Hey Brutal, one thing I noticed during my diff swap was the front subframe bolts has a whitish liquid come out once the bolts were loosened. Were these dampened at one time? I didn't mess with the backs as I just removed the K support structure to get it out of the way.

 

Ranch I didn't know you did a diff swap was simply a replacement or did you quaife it

 

Emergency repair ended up being a LS swap to open 3.58's. Nailed it in 2nd going through a short tunnel this morning and it spun just the slightest bit. The processor didn't pull any power out that I could tell.

 

Brilliant ranch !! Looks like we're the only two running the 3.58.1 final drive ..just need to work on lsd solution !

 

just water and corrossion from aluminum pieces.

 

I think I could get into a limited slip setup for under $500 if I really wanted to. I documented some of what I found in my rebuild thread. Basically pick up a larger used '00-02 LS 8" chunk with the true 8.8" carrier and drop a factory Ford 8.8" traction lock carrier in it. You'd need the shorter right side axle half shaft and a rebuild kit for the locker.

My real concern is I'd rather a tire slip a little versus overload the ring and pinion which IMHO are a little small for a 420 hp powerplant with big block levels of torque. Heck, back in the '60's Ford ran 9" rears on big blocks and skinny tires.

I did think about this thread during the diff swap and didn't really see any looseness in the connecting joints other than the subframe to body mounts and I want to say that the suspension bolted to the subframe (except for the shock / spring package) so I'm still at a loss.